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83 GL D/R wagon lift checklist


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9 replies to this topic

#1 SubSandRail

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Posted 23 February 2004 - 12:36 PM

I'm getting ready to fab a 4" lift for my 83 GL D/R wagon. I think I have a handle on the lifting part, but need to figure out what elso needs to be taken care of. My list so far:

1. Extend brake lines if needed

2. Extend steering shaft

3. Fab custom skid plate

4. Measure strut angle, move strut mount over during lift to keep same angle.

Anything else?

I've searched the archives and this is all I've come up with.

#2 Skip

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Posted 23 February 2004 - 12:47 PM

I'll take it on faith you have given thought to the mustache bar and the fact that your shifters will be 4 inches lower now?
Rad hoses, ect are also "after you get it down/up" issues no doubt.


#3 SubSandRail

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Posted 23 February 2004 - 01:06 PM

Skip,

What is a mustache bar? There is a round steel tube behind the front bumper. Is that it? Does it link the body to the engine/transaxle mount?



The list now includes:
-----------------------------------------------
1. Extend brake lines if needed

2. Extend steering shaft

3. Fab custom skid plate

4. Measure strut angle, move strut mount over during lift to keep same angle.

5. Extend radiator hoses

6. Extend shifter, D/R lever

7. Mustache bar (???)

I want to get all of my materials before I start, so I can minimize my down-time. My pickup gets 9mpg and I try not to commute with it.

Anyone in the Tacoma area have a lifted wagon that I can come look at before I start? Especially if you did all the work yourself (even if you used a kit)?

#4 Skip

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Posted 23 February 2004 - 01:15 PM

It is the bar that holds the rear diff in place.
Think the throttle cable will strech that far?
Wiring to the starter/alt. ect?
Very good idea finding one that's been done.


#5 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 23 February 2004 - 01:55 PM

You'll have to disconnect the soft brake lines from the little holes in the stut's on the front.

The pitching stopper will work as it is, you just have to bend it up a little, and move the adjustment nut's farther down a bit.

All the wiring / cabling should be fine with no modifications.

How are you doing the rear end? It's easy to put in some EA82 adjustable rear strut's instead of blocks... that will keep the mustache bar up where it is now, and basically gives you a suspension lift in the back. You just use a bit of angle iron (4" x 2") and drill a hole in the short side for the strut top bolt, and two in the long side about 1" down for the mounting bolts to the car.

Just thought of another one - if your using the hitachi, then the stock airbox will interfere with the upper radiator hose.... we just cut the airbox off right before the heat riser flapper mechanism. No problem now. Weber's of course do not have this problem.

Yet ANOTHER one - if you have the A/C that is on the outside of the alternator, you will have to move it, or remove it completely, as it will interfere with the frame rail.

GD

#6 SubSandRail

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Posted 24 February 2004 - 12:03 PM

Thanks for all the info. I'm heading down to Floyd's scrap metal to look for some 2"x4" steel tube at lunch.

GeneralDisorder, I'm going to lift the rear end with spacers. I like the torsion rear ends for off roading, so will probably stick with normal shocks, but will put adapter plates and coil-overs in the spare parts box in case the torsion fails on the trail. I have only heard of that happening to guys that continue to drive hard after blowing their shocks.

I'll try to photograph/ document the process for the repair manual.

What's a pitching stopper?

#7 MilesFox

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Posted 24 February 2004 - 05:37 PM

i lifted 3 inches, and 6 inches in both 83 wagons.
in boh my throttle cables worked, and i was able to orient and trim the right combination of stock hoses to work with the radiator.

the latter lift had an ea82, which i had to take off the timing belt covers and cut the framerails to fit(lift only) i extended the brake lines by cutting off the end of the steel portion, and adding extensions with compression fittings

for the steering linkage, the ea82 will fit, and it has a double u joint, that will make your extension easier. what i did was took off the rack side shaft and cut and lengthened it, and used an ea82 double u joint

the pitch stopper is the bar above the engine that connects to the firewall

the shifter you can mount higher with its pivot at the mounting bushing, but you will want to cut the hole out a little to fit 1st, 3rd, and 5th gears. but on min e both i use 5spd dual ranges, the first one converted from 4wd auto, the second one converted from 2wd 5spd

#8 Rooinater

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Posted 24 February 2004 - 05:46 PM

with a 4 inch lift. you'll need to modify your shift linkage. cause if you are using the 4inch lift it will interfere with the 4wd linkage and getting into reverse. what we did to mine, if iremember correctly was to the little loop thingy at the bottom of the shift rod. and position it so it'd be out of the way. and welded it back in.

#9 ru4x4ever

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Posted 24 February 2004 - 10:08 PM

We did the same thing with my shifter, but the 4wd shifter is really stiff! :mad:

#10 MorganM

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Posted 18 April 2004 - 07:27 PM

Skip,

What is a mustache bar? There is a round steel tube behind the front bumper. Is that it? Does it link the body to the engine/transaxle mount?



The list now includes:
-----------------------------------------------
1. Extend brake lines if needed

2. Extend steering shaft

3. Fab custom skid plate

4. Measure strut angle, move strut mount over during lift to keep same angle.

5. Extend radiator hoses

6. Extend shifter, D/R lever

7. Mustache bar (???)

I want to get all of my materials before I start, so I can minimize my down-time. My pickup gets 9mpg and I try not to commute with it.

Anyone in the Tacoma area have a lifted wagon that I can come look at before I start? Especially if you did all the work yourself (even if you used a kit)?


5. Extend radiator hoses

I have just the oposite problem with this BYB 3" lift in my 88 GL wagon. The upper hose is tweaked a bit but works fine. Bottom hose is way to 'tall' The bends are perfect, but too much hose is inbetween so it kinks when you put it on.

Slowly from each end i kept cutting a 1/2 inch or so to try and make it fit. Ended up getting it too short and it never fit right.

Is there a different hose I should use? Universal one that would fit?




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