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EA Steering shaft ideas for lifted rigs


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17 replies to this topic

#1 Crazyeights

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Posted 03 October 2010 - 06:40 PM

My EA81 wagon is already lifted and although it works my steering shaft isn't the greatest. I'm going to be replacing the current lift with SJR's 4" kit so I went to P-A-P and started collecting ideas for making a better steering shaft. Here are some pics. Since I don't weld I'll have to try and be ready with the best option for someone who can.

These are out of a 92 and 93 Legacy
Posted Image

The top one in this pic is from a 98 forester
The bottom one is adjustable and came out of an 86 GL 4WD Wagon
Posted Image

These are the top two cut differently, one so you can cut a pipe to length slide it over the stubs and weld it. The other the 5/8 steel rod can be cut to length, fit in the holes and welded.
Posted Image

This one shows them all together. The white painted section on the one can be cut to length and welded. I'll probably end up using that one. It was the hardest to find.
Posted Image

Edited by Crazyeights, 03 October 2010 - 07:06 PM.


#2 Mr. Brat

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Posted 03 October 2010 - 08:10 PM

Does your car have power steering?

#3 Crazyeights

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Posted 03 October 2010 - 08:44 PM

Yes it does. The power steering is all EA81T parts so it works with the EA81 and SPFI.

#4 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 03 October 2010 - 08:51 PM

Power steering and manual steering have completely different requirements for shaft extensions. None of those would work for a manual rack.

That said - a lifted EA without power steering is lame - and your pictures and ideas are excelent and I completely approve of all of the designs you have come up with there. I hadn't noticed the Legacy double-u-joint units before in relation to a lited EA so that's something I will definitely take note of when I need to do this again.

When you have those welded - make sure to wrap the joint in a wet rag to prevent the heat from welding damaging the u-joint rubber boots, etc. :)

GD

#5 Crazyeights

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Posted 03 October 2010 - 09:22 PM

Thanks GD!

#6 Gloyale

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Posted 04 October 2010 - 12:48 PM

4 inch lift on an EA w/power steering?

You should be able to use a stock Legacy Outback steering coupler (96-99)

#7 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 04 October 2010 - 01:01 PM

4 inch lift on an EA w/power steering?

You should be able to use a stock Legacy Outback steering coupler (96-99)


Does that work for both EA81 and EA82? And do you know the range of cross-member lift-block sizes that it will work for? Like 3.5 to 4.5 or only 4.... etc?

Good to know. :)

Funny this has been brought up just now - I am actually in the process of building a new steering coupler for my lifted wagon due to a failed (rusted) u-joint. A bolt-in stock peice is certainly attractive over custom building something. I have 4" blocks on my cross member so I'll head to the yard and pickup an OBW coupler and check out the fitment.

GD

Edited by GeneralDisorder, 04 October 2010 - 01:04 PM.


#8 Gloyale

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Posted 04 October 2010 - 01:58 PM

Does that work for both EA81 and EA82? And do you know the range of cross-member lift-block sizes that it will work for? Like 3.5 to 4.5 or only 4.... etc?

Good to know. :)

Funny this has been brought up just now - I am actually in the process of building a new steering coupler for my lifted wagon due to a failed (rusted) u-joint. A bolt-in stock peice is certainly attractive over custom building something. I have 4" blocks on my cross member so I'll head to the yard and pickup an OBW coupler and check out the fitment.

GD


Works for EA82 power steering....not sure about EA81

3" or 4" (4" barely makes it, but it works....due to the long flat spot on the column end of the shaft.)

#9 ivantruckman

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Posted 04 October 2010 - 03:17 PM

nice clean look. my gehetto extention looks crappy.

#10 WoodsWagon

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Posted 04 October 2010 - 03:38 PM

When the ujoints started to bind on the PK extended shaft in my EA82 3" crossmember drop lift, I used a spare 98 outback shaft I had around. It fit the splines perfect and is still working great.

We go through ujoints all the time in the northeast, the seals don't hold out the salt and rust well enough.

You can buy a new outback coupler from the dealership for about $75.

#11 kanurys

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Posted 04 October 2010 - 04:07 PM

If the legacy outback barely works, I wonder if a forester shaft will work better. I think it was Cmiller who told me he got his form a forester for his 4" ea82 lift. Does anyone know what year might work?

#12 Crazyeights

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Posted 04 October 2010 - 07:37 PM

As it sits now my EA81 wagon has the SJR prototype lift in it with the 4" cast aluminum strut blocks and 3" front crossmember blocks. I'm going through front CV boots with this combo otherwise it works great.

The shaft in one of my photos is out of a '98 Forester (the one with the built in rag joint) and it's a little bit too short at just over 9".

I will need the coupler to be even longer once the 4" blocks are in, right? What is the overall length of the 96-99 Outback coupler, is it longer than the Forester one and does it have the flexible portion built in as well?

#13 kanurys

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Posted 04 October 2010 - 11:17 PM

Gotchya. Sorry, I didn't notice that in the text, at first.

Does anyone know what steering linkage/extension Allied Armament shipped with their lift kits? Was it something they modified or was it pulled from a yard?

#14 kanurys

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Posted 05 October 2010 - 12:16 AM

also, I got annoyed at all the educated guessing going on and posted this on another thread:

http://www.ultimates...86&postcount=18

#15 WoodsWagon

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Posted 05 October 2010 - 12:17 AM

The flexable portion (rag joint) in the pictured forester one is a retrofitted coupler put in because the customer complained of rack clunk when going over bumps while turning. It's meant to dampen noise, not add additional flexability into the coupler.

#16 michael appel

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Posted 06 October 2010 - 07:14 PM

impreza sports work for 4inch

#17 kanurys

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Posted 06 October 2010 - 11:44 PM

impreza sports work for 4inch


Right on. Do you have a year range? My guess is that it would be all years, but like I said.... guess.

Edited by kanurys, 06 October 2010 - 11:49 PM.


#18 andrsn

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Posted 18 May 2017 - 04:07 PM

Power steering and manual steering have completely different requirements for shaft extensions. None of those would work for a manual rack.

That said - a lifted EA without power steering is lame - and your pictures and ideas are excelent and I completely approve of all of the designs you have come up with there. I hadn't noticed the Legacy double-u-joint units before in relation to a lited EA so that's something I will definitely take note of when I need to do this again.

When you have those welded - make sure to wrap the joint in a wet rag to prevent the heat from welding damaging the u-joint rubber boots, etc. :)

GD

 

Hope nobody minds the revival of an old thread but this is the most pertinent thing I can find to my current situation. 

 

I've got a manual rack on my lifted ea81 and I'm trying to get the steering linkage figured out. Why are the linkage requirements different? Just the force required to turn the wheels in a manual vs. power steering equipped car I'm assuming...  

 

Here are my current possible strategies, please weigh in:

 

1. I've got an early legacy double u-joint unit on hand. I could extend the legacy u joint in the center by a few inches, remove the 'rag joint' near the rack and shorten the shaft bolted on top of the 'rag joint'. I think this would work well because it would minimize the abrupt angle I currently have between the steering shaft and the rack shaft. I was a fan of this option until I read this post and it says "None of those would work for a manual rack."

 

2. keep the rag joint, extend the shaft bolted to the top of it and use the original single u-joint. I mocked this up at first but I can't imagine I won't have some serious steering binding issues given the angle the two shafts will come together at. 






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