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heater core question
Posted 25 February 2004 - 09:19 PM
Posted 25 February 2004 - 09:32 PM
I imagine Sube's are the same, so I'd guess the heater core's deep sixed.
Posted 25 February 2004 - 10:43 PM
i know the heater core has been explained well. there are some pictures floating around somewhere too. try a search.
Posted 26 February 2004 - 12:04 AM
should that work it will get you by till we can come and fix it. it will at least keep you from "standing in hot water"
and since its your other legal car, in case you need to drive it
Jim asked me if the heater core from an XT would fit. i think it would. any one else have an idea?
Posted 26 February 2004 - 12:08 AM
Posted 26 February 2004 - 12:45 AM
JUST DONT PULL THE SPEEDO CABLE WITH IT!!! (code 33)
Posted 26 February 2004 - 04:04 AM
Posted 26 February 2004 - 04:15 AM
i think its good.. but I would have to check.. (I removed the assembly as a whole, and left the core in there)
but yes, it is difficult to repair, but DONT use stop leak, it will just plug up your radiator and mess up your engine ( i know from experience!!)
the best thing to do is bypass the core at the firewall like previously suggested
Posted 26 February 2004 - 07:10 AM
Posted 27 February 2004 - 11:31 PM
Posted 28 February 2004 - 12:01 AM
Posted 28 February 2004 - 08:51 AM
Posted 28 February 2004 - 02:55 PM
Posted 28 February 2004 - 04:02 PM
stopleak works great alot of the time, and i have used it in about 10 cars, and never had any radiator plugging problems. thats an old wives tale, from the 70s.
Posted 28 February 2004 - 10:51 PM
just what i have seen anyways....
the soldering idea sounds good, as long as you dont care about keeping it all original (but i guess you could just hide it with gluing the plastic back in there
Posted 29 February 2004 - 01:30 AM
Unfortunately, this is one of those instances where the cure is worse than the disease.
BarsLeak greatly reduces the heat-shedding ability of the cooling system. It coats -- everything. It will plug holes in fine passages. In non-Subaru engines, I've seen it occlude multiple head gasket steam holes, which are there for a reason!
I've seen it plug up portions of a radiator core.
And, because it's almost all solids, it's hell on the water pump seal (as are, to a much lesser extent the silicates in green coolant). Which is why the John Crane Co. doesn't like it. Who's the John Crane Company? They're the folks that mfgr something like 70% of the worlds water pump seals.
BarsLeak is like putting sticky sandpaper in your cooling system.
But it works. For a while. How long do you want to drive your car? BarsLeak is great if you want to sell it next week. I bet used car lots keep Bar's in business.
Posted 29 February 2004 - 01:30 AM
Posted 29 February 2004 - 08:03 AM
but he is talking about an EA81 vehicle.
The EA82 in question has no control valve
and is a much different beast under the dash.
Just thought you might want to know this
before you go looking for this "valve"
Posted 29 February 2004 - 08:34 AM
Posted 29 February 2004 - 01:50 PM
Originally posted by Skip
The EA82 in question has no control valve and is a much different beast under the dash.
My Loyale had been giving me a brief coolant smell on warmup every morning on my drive to work. I know what that means: seepage from the core overnight, and as it warms up, the one or two drops vapourizing lets me know.
I was hoping for a valve fix rather than the 4.3 hours flat-rate to R&R the core.
This Loyale has really turned into a pile of work.
Posted 29 February 2004 - 04:26 PM
Posted 01 March 2004 - 12:24 AM
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