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Brat Build!
#101
Posted 28 March 2011 - 01:57 PM
Are my assumptions correct. Can you direct me to further reference materials or links?
#102
Posted 28 March 2011 - 09:27 PM
I'm watching with interest too. Looks like a cool project, I'm not sure even though I followed the link, why you are using the Megasquirt and additional control box. I gather it's to replace the original engine cpu and bypass a need for an original harness. Will the additional control box allow further custom tuning?
Are my assumptions correct. Can you direct me to further reference materials or links?
I'm using Megasquirt 3 along with the Megasquirt 3 Xpander (makes it more tunable), and the separate control box is called Jimstim (the one with the LEDs, and this allows me to test the system outside of the car, while not hooked to the wiring harness. Info can be seen here
http://www.msextra.c...timtesting.html
and this is just instructions on how to put everything together, and how to set things up
http://www.msextra.com/doc/index.html
I worked on it some tonight. I hooked up three sensors Intake air temp, coolant temp, and the Throttle position sensor. I also started fitting my fans. If my internet was working I would upload photos but it's being really slow. I also found I can use my MacBook to run the tuning software, and got really excited about that, as I don't have to use my dad's work computer
#103
Posted 30 March 2011 - 04:31 PM
these are the wires I have left. The ones in the old battery tray are for V8s or larger engines, and a few are for options I wont be using such as NOS, Boost, and launch control, although I may hook up Launch someday for fun

And here are my E-bay fans it was around $40 for the pair!!
#104
Posted 31 March 2011 - 09:20 PM

I still need to hook up these relays I grabbed from an EJ harness I had kicking around.

And this is pretty much the whole harness so far. I'm going to wrap it up after I get it running (the wires in the battery box in the bottom left corner of the photo are extras)
#105
Posted 31 March 2011 - 11:40 PM
#106
Posted 03 April 2011 - 04:58 PM
As of today headers!!!!!!!!


And my dad built hoses for the radiator, but I didn't get any pics. I also tried to bleed the brakes, but something happened (I have no idea what) and the master cylinder no longer wants to work so I think I'm going to retro fit a legacy one is as I have a spare and don't have to pay for it!
#107
Posted 07 April 2011 - 06:43 AM
#108
Posted 07 April 2011 - 11:46 AM
Well I came home again last night to try to get bleed my brakes, and no such luck. I ended up taking the master cylinder out and trying to bench bleed it, and could not get a single drop of fluid to go through it. This baffles me
I have never seen anything like this in a Subaru. I even ended up taking it all apart just to see if it was sticking, and everything was free, and all of the seals were good, just no fluid?! Oh well, Looks like it's time to go take that outback one off
Oh and I was trying to use dot 5 because the whole system is new, except the rear calipers and the master, but after seeing this happen I'm not sure that was such a good idea? Anyone have any words of advice?
DO NOT use a Legacy/Outback master cylinder on your (mostly) stock braking system. I tried it. The pedal feel was awesome, but actual stopping power was decreased to the point of being dangerous. NoahDL posted something about the physics behind it, but the basic idea is that the pressure drops, so your pads aren't squeezing against the rotors enough.
Jacob
#109
Posted 07 April 2011 - 01:17 PM
#110
Posted 07 April 2011 - 01:39 PM
My system isn't really stock. I have the rear disc, and the front calipers are outback two pots. But that does make sense i guess. Would it help to use to use the booster as well? Or do they not fit? And if not what should I use the stock Brat one or is there an upgrade of some sort.
I don't know of any common MC upgrade. I rebuilt mine, and it's ok. In theory, if you used a bigger booster along with the bigger MC, you would be fine. Shawnw has a post on adding a bigger booster to an EA82. It'll probably take some chopping, which I'm betting you're comfortable with:)
Jacob
#111
Posted 07 April 2011 - 07:15 PM
#112
Posted 15 April 2011 - 09:14 PM
#113
Posted 16 April 2011 - 12:36 PM
It looked just like the OP's with 3rd eye, t-tops... it just didn't have the brush guard, or the "brat" decals.
#114
Posted 16 April 2011 - 04:13 PM

#115
Posted 17 April 2011 - 08:54 PM
A lot of stuff is going on in this corner of the engine bay at this point.
#116
Posted 18 April 2011 - 01:34 PM
I got a shift knob off from a 1980's tercel.
I have a shift knob off of my old 1980 Toyota Celica on my Hatch. Toyota made a hell of a shift knob in the 80's.
Edited by Pooparu, 18 April 2011 - 01:38 PM.
#117
Posted 18 April 2011 - 02:08 PM
#118
Posted 18 April 2011 - 02:24 PM
Haha that's awesome
Mines out of an SR5 so it's leather wrapped! It's just so much nicer then the factory Subaru one that I had. I'm have troubles with my shift linkage hitting the stereo, so I may have to do some more cutting/bending to get it to fit right Maybe shortening the lever would be a good idea as well....
My shifter ended up being further back. How is your stereo mounted? Your shifter may be fine with a slant console for your stereo, if you wanted to go that route.
I like how a normal Legacy shifter sits. It's up a bit so I don't have to reach as far to shift. Since you're cutting and such anyway, you could probably set it up to need less throw, though.
Jacob
#119
Posted 18 April 2011 - 02:38 PM
#120
Posted 18 April 2011 - 02:47 PM
Mine has a ton of throw right now, it hits my console on 1-3-5, and hits the shift boot console while shifting into 2-4 and reverse. And I have the stock stereo in it, if I ever do anything I'll just put it in the glove box to keep the stock look I have going so far. I'm not sure how I could get it to be less I have changed out some of the bushings, I still need to do a couple more, but they shouldn't be causing that much play back and fourth.
Mine has surprisingly little throw. How did you handle the rear mount? Keep in mind that my work blocks your pics, so if you posted it, I wouldn't know.
I'd change every last plastic/rubber piece in there. I did that when I went to the 5-speed D/R, and it helped tremendously.
After that, you'd probably be looking at changing the mounting point of the two rods to reduce the throw. My first guess is that you'd want to mount it down the shifter a little further.
Jacob
#121
Posted 18 April 2011 - 02:55 PM
*Edit* That was way easier to find than it should have been.

You take some out of the top, and add it to the bottom by the looks of things.
Edited by 1982gl4, 18 April 2011 - 03:02 PM.
#122
Posted 18 April 2011 - 05:40 PM



#123
Posted 18 April 2011 - 06:13 PM
#124
Posted 18 April 2011 - 10:23 PM
#125
Posted 29 April 2011 - 10:39 PM
Edited by 1982gl4, 30 April 2011 - 06:00 AM.
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