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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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New shop tools & supplies (need list too)


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24 replies to this topic

#1 True2Blue

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Posted 14 November 2010 - 05:28 AM

ADDING Monthly

Just purchased:

Floor squeege
Multimeter
Micrometer
3/8 6" & 12" extensions
3/8 IR Titanium impact
Engine hoist
Cutoff tool
Tranny jack 1500lb tranny/engine brace/stand engine stand
225 amp battery charger
Compression test kit
1/2 impact socket set
Lug nut flip socket w/anvil
Genisys EVO 2009 OBD2 scanner
Two ReelTec hose reels with 50' hose
Matco micro OBD2 scanner
Tire check and fill guage
Spark plug gapper
Timing light

Whats next/on the way?

Hobart Ironman 230 MIG Welder
Rim Clamp 5045E tire changer
Complete NEW set of sockets, ratchets, ratchet wrenches, hammers, screw drivers, torx bits, allen bits, pry bars, all the much needed hand tools.
Body tools
Paint booth and tools
Complete IR titanium impact set
Pipe/Tube bender

Whats needed and not on the way yet

Hot water pressure washer
Floor cleaner (stripper/buffer like what they use at walmart i found one in a pawn shop)
Floor jack and stands (heavy duty)
Parts cleaner/washer
ill add more when my brain is working properly

I know this isnt much compared to some of you guys but im tryin

NOTE: this isnt a show off attempt its an invitation

:( I have no friends :lol::lol:

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HEAT!
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Edited by True2Blue, 14 November 2010 - 05:33 AM.


#2 Scoobywagon

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Posted 14 November 2010 - 08:57 AM

Nice place. I'm jealous.

#3 Idasho

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Posted 14 November 2010 - 12:13 PM

Nice! You should get some insulation in that place!

#4 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 14 November 2010 - 01:28 PM

All I can say is be cautious about your spending! One of the biggest mistakes people make is not keeping their money solvent - buying things is great but I would caution against buying something you will use once or twice in the next year - you could easily rent that tool for a fraction of the cost - the return on the invesment is not there.

It often happens that I have to buy a tool for a job - and if the money in the job is good then it's not an issue. Having another tool is great if the return on the invesment is there - but having the MONEY in the bank is a *more useful tool*.

I suppose this insight comes with age. I know how it feels to want a tool and have the money for it burning a hole in your pocket. It's a tough call to say "No - not now. Yes I could buy it and it would be pretty and shiny - but I don't have a use for it *right now*. If a job comes into my shop that requires that tool I will find a way to get it or borrow it."

Having all the tools in the world is awesome - no question there. But my customers are always very understanding when I explain that I will have to aquire something to do the job right for them and it could be a few days before I get it.

Looks like a nice place though - you have a lot of potential there.

GD

#5 True2Blue

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Posted 14 November 2010 - 01:34 PM

Nice! You should get some insulation in that place!


I know right! its freezing at times but im not gonna spend the cash on it since i dont own it:rolleyes:

im tryin to talk the "landlord" into buying it so i can install it:)

#6 True2Blue

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Posted 14 November 2010 - 02:14 PM


I suppose this insight comes with age. I know how it feels to want a tool and have the money for it burning a hole in your pocket. It's a tough call to say "No - not now. Yes I could buy it and it would be pretty and shiny - but I don't have a use for it *right now*. If a job comes into my shop that requires that tool I will find a way to get it or borrow it."


GD


happens often believe it or not and everything bought is used weekly if not daily.

i WANT a coolant flush machine but cant seem to buy it.. i keep sayin "no only what i need to do the job"

im busy though will all makes an models even 2010's:eek: (weird i know)

#7 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 14 November 2010 - 08:15 PM

Curious - why don't you fix that big overhead heater up there - that looks like it could blow you right out of the shop :rolleyes:..... Like maybe it could get the temp up to ~70 F in less than a day and a half unlike that little propane candle you are standing over would take :lol:.

Just a thought - I like fixing crap like that. Besides it looks like a monster and it looks fun to play with. I bet you could incinerate waste oil with that beastie.....:grin:

GD

#8 True2Blue

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Posted 14 November 2010 - 08:33 PM

i tried! but its a radiator and the water supply line broke under the concrete :rolleyes:

so thats a no go...

the landlord sucks. she tried to tell me i couldn't carry my pistol on the property, told me not to call the cops when theres suspicious car in my driveway at 2am... she wont pay for new shop light bulbs or any shop appliances.. she just plain sucks:rolleyes:

That "candle" works fine for now I just don't wanna spend money on another heater:lol:

My boss was talkin about buyin a waste oil heater its 300,000 btu

#9 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 14 November 2010 - 08:40 PM

Run a new water line. Wouldn't take much. Either that or rent a concrete saw and go to town!

Or you could supply it with water some other way. Doesn't it just circulate water inside it's heat exchanger? I would imagine the supply is just for topping it off or filling it after draining? I have never messed with one of those so I could be totally wrong. But that seems like a right proper heater and I would make it do *something* for me :)

GD

#10 Mugs

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Posted 14 November 2010 - 08:52 PM

What is it that you ware trying to do, start a shop, or is this for your own to work on your vehicles. Is it a body shop or repair shop. Also you will find (at least I have) that the purple power cleaner works a ton better then the engine degreaser. Just spray it all over, let it sit for about 5 minutes or so and the use a pressure tip on a garden hose (or even better a pressure washer if you have one) and rinse it off. Also you need to run a moisture catch off the air compressor. Ideally you need to run a line all the way through the shop, and have a speed drop right before the moisture catch then the pressure regulator, and then have outlets through out the line. Other then that looks like your coming along just fine. Next you need to think about tool storage.... I have been thinking about selling my big box, if the final offer is right. PM if interested

Edited by Mugs, 14 November 2010 - 08:57 PM.


#11 True2Blue

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Posted 15 November 2010 - 02:35 AM

GD- Way easier said then done, like i said my land lord sucks she said "we will get to it" as in "dont touch" ill see if i can sneak a splitter off the line for the pressure washer (its on a well too) to the heater. ill take pics you seem very interested.

Mugs- i use the purple power on the floor and the degreaser on the vehicles with my little nifty electric pressure washer that also has a foam nozzle. As far as storage ill be building mine once the welder comes in. its an awesome design 'no opening drawers or scrambling for wrenches' Everything is on magnet strips.. youll love my design for the air tools

and the moisture catch BROKE on me the glass cracked so ours is on order but i need air.. im also extending the petcock valve so i don't have to reach under the tank everyday. there is a regulator its brand new.

I currently run a business out of here. but it doubles as a personal benefit since I run it.

#12 Mugs

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Posted 15 November 2010 - 07:00 AM

I think one of the first priorities (for me) would be to get a two post lift. You got the space and it will make working on cars a lot easier. :grin:

#13 True2Blue

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Posted 15 November 2010 - 11:26 AM

I think one of the first priorities (for me) would be to get a two post lift. You got the space and it will make working on cars a lot easier. :grin:


its on order but cash needs to flow a bit better before i spend more money. my old shop had 2 of them and life was amazing this air piston lift is okay but bad for tranny jobs

#14 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 15 November 2010 - 11:27 AM

and the moisture catch BROKE on me the glass cracked so ours is on order but i need air.. im also extending the petcock valve so i don't have to reach under the tank everyday. there is a regulator its brand new.


You need an auto-drain. Here's a cheap solution:

http://www.harborfre...-kit-46960.html

Or you can do an auto drain with a timer (I have one similar to this):

http://cgi.ebay.com/...=item415131e5b4

This way you don't have to drain it every morning and it keeps your tank water free any time the machine is on.

You definitely need some filtration, and a regulator (I don't see one in that picture), and when you start painting you will want at least a refrigerated air dryer. An air tool inline oiler isn't a bad idea on the hoses you use for air tools. Keep seperate hoses for painting.

I was a compressed air and vacuum pump tech for a while so if you need advice building out your air system just let me know. :rolleyes:

GD

Edited by GeneralDisorder, 15 November 2010 - 11:30 AM.


#15 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 15 November 2010 - 11:44 AM

GD- Way easier said then done, like i said my land lord sucks she said "we will get to it" as in "dont touch" ill see if i can sneak a splitter off the line for the pressure washer (its on a well too) to the heater. ill take pics you seem very interested.


Think about it - that thing supplies hot water as well as heat! - open that baby up and figure yourself a way to get at the hot side of the water - plumb THAT to the pressure washer instead of the cold supply and you have yourself a steam cleaner! I had to replace the hot water heater in my house (located in my garage) and so instead of a new tank model I "upgraded" to a whole-house insta-hot system. It makes continuous 140* F hot water. When I did the plumbing I included a hose bib for my pressure washer and now I have a 140* F pressure washer. It's not quite as hot as a real steam cleaner but it makes a HUGE difference on a greasy engine bay. The hot water makes the grease and grime just melt away. I don't even use soap or degreasing chemicals anymore. Hot water is cheaper.

GD

#16 True2Blue

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Posted 15 November 2010 - 12:35 PM

Think about it - that thing supplies hot water as well as heat! - open that baby up and figure yourself a way to get at the hot side of the water - plumb THAT to the pressure washer instead of the cold supply and you have yourself a steam cleaner! I had to replace the hot water heater in my house (located in my garage) and so instead of a new tank model I "upgraded" to a whole-house insta-hot system. It makes continuous 140* F hot water. When I did the plumbing I included a hose bib for my pressure washer and now I have a 140* F pressure washer. It's not quite as hot as a real steam cleaner but it makes a HUGE difference on a greasy engine bay. The hot water makes the grease and grime just melt away. I don't even use soap or degreasing chemicals anymore. Hot water is cheaper.

GD


Like I said its not mine, not mine to fix, not mine to mod. I don't wanna get kicked out cause I cant follow simple requests/instructions. I know its eatin you up inside and trust me I asked about it but im told to wait for an electrician to come out.... :rolleyes:

#17 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 15 November 2010 - 01:01 PM

Heh - following instructions is for people still in the Military. I ETS'd a long time ago and I do as I please! That's why I run my own business - I don't play well with other's. :)

Sometimes better to ask forgiveness than permission - hell the thing is broken anyway so worst that happens is it's still broken and you shrug your shoulders when the repair guys comes out and say "no clue buddy!". :lol:. The first mistake you made was persueing the conversation after the first sentance - You: "what can you tell me about that big old heater up there.... can I use it?" Landlord: "It's broken.....". You: "Ah - I see. Thanks for the warning - I'll be sure not to turn it on."

That's where I end the conversation. Because any further and I'm asking permission instead of forgiveness. :)

Commecial "garden" hose is great for temp hookups with water. When she lets you know that a repair guy will be out you just coil the hose up in the corner :rolleyes:.

GD

#18 True2Blue

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Posted 15 November 2010 - 01:19 PM


Sometimes better to ask forgiveness than permission

GD


Good lesson/advise.

ill look at it in a few minutes BUT its copper plumbed down like 6 feet under the shop so id have to cut the line somewhere or BUY pipe and run a new one off the machine, the fans were disconnected? im hoping there isnt an over heating issue or a smokey fan motor.

#19 True2Blue

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Posted 17 November 2010 - 04:14 AM

Yea no good on the 'reznor' heater its natural gas and thats the pipe that broke under ground..

i was thinkin about modifying a wood stove and hangin it there :lol:

#20 Scoobywagon

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Posted 17 November 2010 - 02:00 PM

You could hang one of those ventless propane heaters from a ceiling fan (low speed setting of course) with a swivel fitting in its supply line. Sort of an oscillating heater system. :lol:

#21 Responsible Jon

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Posted 17 November 2010 - 11:59 PM

Avoid the auto drain from Harbor freight! I've tried two different ones on two different (large-ish) compressors and the little hose that comes with them always bursts. If you get that auto drain, be prepared to buy a more solid hose, they might work fine then, but I wouldn't know about that since I just get disgusted when they burst and return them.

#22 True2Blue

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Posted 18 November 2010 - 01:43 AM

ill make my own i dont mind draining it i just dont like reaching under the tank.

thanks for the input i probably would have tried HF too

#23 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 18 November 2010 - 09:24 PM

Avoid the auto drain from Harbor freight! I've tried two different ones on two different (large-ish) compressors and the little hose that comes with them always bursts. If you get that auto drain, be prepared to buy a more solid hose, they might work fine then, but I wouldn't know about that since I just get disgusted when they burst and return them.


Sounds like you are over-tightening the nylon tubing fittings. It doesn't take much for the ferrule to cut into the nylon and compromise it - either that or the tubing is located too near to a heat source such as the discharge line from the compressor or even the discharge line unloader tube going to the pressure switch - I'm assuming these machines are of the reed-valve variety with form-x style pressure switches that automatically relieve pressure from the discharge pipe when they reach operating pressure and shut down?

This is a pretty simple little unit - though if it were me I would likely replace the tubing with clear nylon and also add a strainer before the auto-drain valve. That will prolong it's life immensely and I could easily see the chinese black nylon tubing being junk - still for the price it's hard to beat even with a few pipe fittings, some new tubing and a Y-strainer to trap rust and crud.

Nothing beats a timed-drain, but then $99 isn't in everyone's budget for their compressor.

But you should do *something* as draining it every morning is really not sufficient and if you make your system basically leak-free you can just leave the machine on all the time. My compressor is always on. Having water in your air tools is BAD.

GD

Edited by GeneralDisorder, 18 November 2010 - 09:30 PM.


#24 Responsible Jon

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Posted 18 November 2010 - 10:34 PM

@GD, yeah, the HF auto drain works by splicing into the pressure line that turns off the breaker points. When the pressure in that line gets to great, the tubing would burst. At first I thought it just couldn't handle the pressure of my big compressor, about 150psi, but then I tried to install another one on my friends compressor that maxed psi at 125, and it burst too, but the tubing was a bit warm real close to the discharge on that machine. Just replace the tubing I'll wager it would work, just dont' expect it out of the box.

#25 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 19 November 2010 - 01:35 AM

the HF auto drain works by splicing into the pressure line that turns off the breaker points.


Small correction/education moment: the pressure line in question going to the switch (known as a "Form X" style switch) does not trip the switch - it's purpose is to "unload" the discharge pipe from the compressor head - there is a one-way check valve that keeps tank pressure from flowing back into the discharge pipeing from the receiver. The form-x releives the pressure in the discharge line so that when the compressor starts again it will not be starting under a load. Since this tube alternates between pressure and atmosphere - it is used to signal the auto-drain valve.

Consequently - if you ever have a compressor of this style (the majority are now built this way) that refuses to start after running up to pressure, shutting down, and then dropping below the switch set-point.... you have a problem with the Form-X valve, or the check valve that's threaded into the tank ("tank check"). Used to see this all the time in our shop - customer's would bring them in and be totally baffeled about why the machine wouldn't start up after the pressure switch kicked it off. Pretty simple fix with some bits from grainger or mcmaster-carr, etc. I've got more than one compressor for free with some stupid problem like this that takes 10 minutes to fix and cost's $5. :rolleyes:

but the tubing was a bit warm real close to the discharge on that machine.


Right - compressor discharge temps are typically about 200 to 300 F. So it might have been too close to the discharge and even if it's a good bit away - if cycled on and off rapidly enough it will get hot. If that's the case then you need to switch to copper tubing. Which is no big deal really - you just use common copper refrigeration tubing. Easy to work with and uses similar fittings.

Just replace the tubing I'll wager it would work, just dont' expect it out of the box.


I agree - and the addition of a y-strainer to keep the valve clean would further improve upon the design. You wouldn't beleive how many plugged auto-drains I've cleaned - even the $700 "robo-drains" that are completely loss-less (drains the water but keeps the air) - because people fail to provide adequate filtration for their drain system. Pretty sad when you see these engineers install a $700 robo-drain and don't bother to install a $7 y-strainer :-\.

GD

Edited by GeneralDisorder, 19 November 2010 - 01:47 AM.





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