TPain Posted December 18, 2010 Share Posted December 18, 2010 You guys have any ideas what's going on? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ionlyhave3suubs Posted December 18, 2010 Share Posted December 18, 2010 What kind of car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 18, 2010 Share Posted December 18, 2010 what are we working with here? FWD? 4WD? PT4WD? FT4WD? EA81, EA82, turbo, non turbo? all speeds? what does it do while turning and accelerating - still pulls? we can't see it, touch it, hear it, drive it, feel it.....i know we're really good but not telling us stuff requires classes at Hogwartz to figure this out! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted December 18, 2010 Share Posted December 18, 2010 Let's see if I am more clairvoyant than GG... Check your front anti-roll bar (aka rollbar, swaybar) links to the control arms. One might be missing/disconnected. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted December 18, 2010 Share Posted December 18, 2010 (edited) Classic ball joint symptoms - steering with the gas pedal.... yep. Didn't even need my wand for this one...... GD Edited December 18, 2010 by GeneralDisorder 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle Ed Posted December 18, 2010 Share Posted December 18, 2010 Well, thats one good guess from Northwet. Another would be the steering rack mount rubber has slipped out and is letting the rack move up and down which changes the toe-in. Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 18, 2010 Share Posted December 18, 2010 BAHHH HHAAAAAA HA!!!!! really, classic ball joint symptoms? they'd have to be really shot for that or what? i've never seen that before. not that other steering components aren't potentially dangerous but i'd hate to see what happens when a ball joint fails at high speed, so i'd check those quick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted December 18, 2010 Share Posted December 18, 2010 ...not telling us stuff requires classes at Hogwartz to figure this out! I Like That! ... ... Well, that issue could be done by Tires Sizes / inflation Too; let me Explain: in a FWD Vehicle, if Tire Sizes are Different from one Side to the Other, or maybe one of those Tires are Low on Air Pressure... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted December 18, 2010 Share Posted December 18, 2010 When I first got my Brat it was like that - I've seen it a time or two since then - always with EA's with their strange control-arm leading rod setup.... It's not real common because you don't often see *both* of them bad at the same time and if one is good then it typically won't do the gas pedal steering trick. I'm not entirely sure what effect causes this from the ball joints - but nothing else really makes them do that from what I've seen. All kinds of play in the tie rods and ends won't do it - since the accelerator doesn't really have much effect on the rack and linkage, etc.... it's like some gyroscopic effect I think. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted December 18, 2010 Share Posted December 18, 2010 I would be much more suspicious of the strut rod bushings where they anchor to the body under the front floor pans. If those big rubber bushings are shot the control arm can move forward and back, which changes the toe and alignment based on acceleration, coasting, and braking. Way bigger alignment changes than a worn ball joint can create. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted December 18, 2010 Share Posted December 18, 2010 (edited) Those don't usually wear out though. Possible. I've never had to replace a single one. Climate? I've replaced a LOT of ball joints though - some so bad I really don't know how they didn't fall apart....... Also - the effect is on vs. off the gas pedal - not when braking. So the car is moving forward - you push on the gas and it drifts to the left. Coast and it drifts to the right. The leading rod is still being pushed the entire time and the control arm pivot/bushing pretty much holds it fairly steady. But a worn ball joint allows the knuckle to move independantly of all that. Either way it's pretty scary when you realize how worn that stuff had to get to make it operate like that. I've never replaced a leading rod or control arm bushing on a Subaru - EVER. And I have solved this same problem before so...... GD Edited December 18, 2010 by GeneralDisorder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted December 18, 2010 Share Posted December 18, 2010 I haven't ever had ball joints that caused this sort of issue, so I can't comment on that. However, I have experienced having a disconnected antiroll bar link (nut/bolt fell off due to poor recheck after maintenance). The AR bar being connected on one side and not the other induced asymmetrical response to engine torque squat/lift. The drift was very noticeable and rather unnerving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TPain Posted December 18, 2010 Author Share Posted December 18, 2010 Its an '85 Turbo Wagon 4x4 automatic with 49k on it. I notice it the most while driving straight. When I accelerate, the care pulls left but once I take my foot off the gas it goes right. I have no idea what it causing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 18, 2010 Share Posted December 18, 2010 it shouldn't take long to diagnose if it's that bad. crawl under, look for torn boots/missing bushings, jack it up and start yanking on stuff and see what moves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obk25xt Posted December 18, 2010 Share Posted December 18, 2010 I would be much more suspicious of the strut rod bushings where they anchor to the body under the front floor pans. If those big rubber bushings are shot the control arm can move forward and back, which changes the toe and alignment based on acceleration, coasting, and braking. Way bigger alignment changes than a worn ball joint can create. +1 This is where I would look as well. I've had this happen on other fwd cars, Ford Fiesta to be exact. although slightly different in design, the symptoms were identical. Another place to look (although less likely) would be the 2 bolts that connect the control arm to the strut rod. This is actually where the problem was in the Fiesta. I've never seen the bolts come loose on a soob but it may be worth checking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted December 18, 2010 Share Posted December 18, 2010 Another place to look (although less likely) would be the 2 bolts that connect the control arm to the strut rod. This is actually where the problem was in the Fiesta. I've never seen the bolts come loose on a soob but it may be worth checking. I had those come loose on my lifted EA81 wagon once - made a nasty clunking noise when you were on/off the gas pedal. That's all it did though. It was only one side in my case and perhaps any steering effect was dampened by the big tires, etc. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted December 18, 2010 Share Posted December 18, 2010 it shouldn't take long to diagnose if it's that bad. crawl under, look for torn boots/missing bushings, jack it up and start yanking on stuff and see what moves. Yes - and to check the ball joints remember to put a pry bar on between the knuckle and control arm and try to pry them apart - otherwise it will seem like they are tight due to the sway bar holding the control arm tight against the ball joint/knuckle. A large flat-blade screwdriver or pry-bar will tell the real story though. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwuollet Posted December 18, 2010 Share Posted December 18, 2010 Well, thats one good guess from Northwet. Another would be the steering rack mount rubber has slipped out and is letting the rack move up and down which changes the toe-in.Ed Just had this happen to my lifted 85 wagon. exact same symptoms. I was a 10 minute fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hooziewhatsit Posted December 18, 2010 Share Posted December 18, 2010 Another vote for the ball joints. My wifes '91 loyale was doing the same thing. When I pulled the BJs out, I could flop it around just by shaking it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuzpile Posted December 18, 2010 Share Posted December 18, 2010 Let's just cut thru it. It's a motor mount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted December 18, 2010 Share Posted December 18, 2010 yep, another vote for ball-joints. experienced it on a few cars (my '88 XT6, Loyale twice, and mom's '01 Legacy). Tie rod ends could also do it, but not quite as much. these 2 are very easy to check. Jack up the car, ebrake on, and wiggle the front wheels around. First put your hands near the bottom of the wheel, and pull straight in/out, you're feeling for play in the ball-joint, there should be zero noticeable movement. then put your hands on "3" and "9", and try to turn the wheel just like it would while steering, this looks for play in tie rod end. Whatever it is, the force of accelerating/decelerating is causing something to change in your suspension geometry. so look for play in any part of the suspension. But the ball-joint will have the biggest impact on making the car pull one way or the other. The leading rod bushings can only change caster, and while driving straight, it's going to take a big change there to make the car pull. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ionlyhave3suubs Posted December 19, 2010 Share Posted December 19, 2010 It's gotta be the muffler bearings:lol:, just kidding, I vote ball joints. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted December 19, 2010 Share Posted December 19, 2010 my ball joints did it too, also did some funny stuff the first time i forgot to put the clamp bolt in the strut, I put the bolt in the tab that keeps the strut in the knuckle, but forgot the clamp one. I had just smashed the dog crap outta my finger and was super pissed and destracted lol. boy i jacked it up and checked it out quick though! :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted December 19, 2010 Share Posted December 19, 2010 I would say radius rod bushings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted December 19, 2010 Share Posted December 19, 2010 I think that it might be informative (more so early on in this thread) to know if this was a rapid onset problem, or if it developed over time. Slow development would point towards a wear item, while rapid onset would be more likely a fastener or a broken part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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