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lift springs + strut top lift


lesstutrey
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Would the addition of king springs to a 2" strut top lift present any problems aside from camber and alignment? Would it create a need for subframe drop blocks since it's like 3.5" of lift with the king springs and strut top, and from what i've read after 2" of lift you start getting problems with the alignment and way the wheels hit the pavement without drop blocks.

 

So, with strut/springs doing 3.5" of lift is it gonna present the same problem as a 3.5" strut top lift, if so... maybe i'll go bigger on the lift from the start.

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im running about 4 inches lift with no drop blocks.

the car aligned perfectly, drives true, and has gobs of ground clearance

 

it will put a little more strain on the front axles, but mine are running great so far, and where only 2 degrees steeper then when i was lifted about 3 inches, so im not worried

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im running about 4 inches lift with no drop blocks.

the car aligned perfectly, drives true, and has gobs of ground clearance

 

it will put a little more strain on the front axles, but mine are running great so far, and where only 2 degrees steeper then when i was lifted about 3 inches, so im not worried

 

Well maybe i shall consider the king springs. I'm just gonna go all out and get primitive armor, new struts, new coils, and i guess i'll grab the king springs for new coils.. despite their cost, seems like it would benefit the ride and ground clearance. Strap on some 28" tires and i'm sitting almost 14" off the ground with kings and my 2" lift and 28's.

I happen to have found the perfect redneck to do the work on my car (it's 35 an hour, but i don't own pneumatic tools, and this guy changed a wheel bearing, including putting the car on the lift, pulling the hub, packing, sealing and car back on the floor in 10 minutes, it was AMAZING) and he loves doing lifts, though he mostly does em on trucks. I could install the strut tops myself, but it would be with a lot of cursing, and in a cold garage. This way i'll get to watch, use a lift, and lend a hand, all in a heated garage. Gonna take a look at the bearings on the idle and tensioner too, head lights dim when stopped and i'm about to install a 12" JL with a 350w RMS amp, driving and fog lights, and maybe even a backup light if i actually FIX the front moonroof and pull that headliner. The last car i ran this sub setup in had a 110a alternator.

 

I have so many plans for my OB, and one of them is a panel of toggle switches, abs on/off, lock dif, running lights, there are a couple other mods i've read about, but basically the stuff that i'd flip once i got offroad to increase visibility and drivability listed on scoobymods. Custom bumpers and a winch, maybe end up with a 2.5 turbo?

Edited by lesstutrey
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im running about 4 inches lift with no drop blocks.

the car aligned perfectly, drives true, and has gobs of ground clearance

 

it will put a little more strain on the front axles, but mine are running great so far, and where only 2 degrees steeper then when i was lifted about 3 inches, so im not worried

nice. what vehicle is this?

 

are you using it as a daily driver, highway commuter, etc?

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well that puts a little doubt in my mind that it's doable as i'm driving an EZ, dunno if the stock angle is different or if the cv's are as durable, less durable or more durable bla bla. Is nice to know it's a daily driver though, and i can't imagine cv's getting weaker when they were adding "a lot" of torque and hp. however my lift with springs would be 3 1/2" and from what i read in your thread you are only running just under 3" of lift.. i'd be at least 3.25" lift.. before new tires, sounds alot more risky. As highguys made my lift i'll probably turn to them for 1" drops if i get kings, or possibly fab em myself.... but i don't know if 2" vs 3.5" is gonna fit a bigger tire so.. probably not worth it unless i can. Good luck with your EJ. I'll only get an inch or so out of tire... 215/70/16's being my best bet, so BFGs would be my most likely tire

Edited by lesstutrey
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