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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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86 3door Runabout:FWD<FT4WD, 4 lug<5lug, EA82 carb<EJ22 or ER27 swap, rust removal


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198 replies to this topic

#101 1982gl4

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Posted 20 April 2011 - 08:08 PM

What in the world is the green car in the back round?

This^
And nice progress! Reminds me of when I did my brat a while back, although that was before I found this wonderful place so no pics...

#102 TheLoyale

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Posted 20 April 2011 - 09:05 PM

This^
And nice progress! Reminds me of when I did my brat a while back, although that was before I found this wonderful place so no pics...



Its a running/driving Fiat 1.5L.

#103 MilesFox

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Posted 24 April 2011 - 12:20 AM

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#104 MilesFox

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Posted 25 April 2011 - 10:59 PM

I got the framerail on the one side of the 3door 95% finished and then i ran out of wire. I forgot to take a picture. I think i have radiation sickness form the uv and xrays. I cut my helmet down to handheld and replaced the lens. And with spare tims, my welds are much better now.

I made my tools portable, and now i can brek down the control arms in my backyard and degrease them, por15 them in the rusty parts, and paint hte rest chassis black, available in the can at napa.

I am using a zink weld-thru prime as illustrated in a particular u-tube series on bodywork.

I am together enogh i can mount the radius rod plate to the body. I am debating to do all the seam welds, and instead of welding on the edges, i am thinking f spot welding between the spots, for more penetration and a cleaner look. I am going to seam weld the radius rod plate body tampings, trans mount stamping, pitch bar mount, and around the strut towers. I may go down the whole trans tunnel. I will have to treat surface rust along the trans tunnel, and mount the xt6 shifter before installing the trans.

I may go with mounting the trans, mount, and pitch bar to the body before installing the engine crossmember __________________

#105 MilesFox

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Posted 26 April 2011 - 07:00 PM

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#106 TheLoyale

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Posted 26 April 2011 - 07:24 PM

Wow, thats some qaulity work. Outstanding :banana:

#107 Numbchux

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Posted 27 April 2011 - 02:45 PM

wow, nice. wish I knew someone up here that could do that quality rust repair. I'm going to have a very similar project on a brat this summer

#108 MilesFox

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Posted 27 April 2011 - 05:39 PM

this thing is pissin me off so far, ugly rump roast welds and stupid home depot metal that burns through.

The finished one in the pic welded up like a dream. The other side is being a pain, being on the wrong side for my right-handed ness, and it's trying my pationce.

I broke my phone and left the shop to get some tobacco. I feel better now. I hope to finish it tonite.

Sorry, no pics, because i broke my phone. I guess that's what cameras are for, if i can find the charger to it.

#109 TheLoyale

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Posted 27 April 2011 - 06:28 PM

Well, I'm sure yours is welding up better then mine did as I was using Galvanized metal and not knowing it lol.

#110 jboymechanic

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Posted 27 April 2011 - 08:10 PM

Well, I'm sure yours is welding up better then mine did as I was using Galvanized metal and not knowing it lol.


Welding galvanized metal makes poisonous gas, that explains a lot.:lol:

#111 xbeerd

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Posted 28 April 2011 - 06:39 AM

Welding galvanized metal makes poisonous gas, that explains a lot.:lol:


haha, thats what i said after he told what he used too!



FOx, this is a situation where a car lift would be useful, get the thing up higher for access

#112 MilesFox

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Posted 28 April 2011 - 07:54 AM

I resorted to cutting sections from the xt6. I t welded up much better. The home depot metal must be different or thinner than what i had last time...


I got the driver side framerail built and tacked up and called it a day. All i need to do now is fully weld and grind down, and build the last part of the jack support.

Then i'm onto de-rusting the trans trunnel and seam welding the trans/suspension mount stampings.

#113 TheLoyale

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Posted 28 April 2011 - 12:10 PM

Is it really worth the time to weld up someof these seams? If you slather then with POR, it'll clogg/fill them up and still seal it.

It would save you time, which could be spent somewhere else on the car.

#114 MilesFox

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Posted 28 April 2011 - 12:26 PM

I am interested in seam sealing structural parts of the body that hold the trans, pitch bar, strut towers and raduis rod plates for overall stability, and taking the opportunity to do all of this while the car is just a hollow body.

For stiffness, not rust.

and just whre it is necessary, to save labor.

I am so tired of welding, i will be blind and deaf by the time i am done.

#115 TheLoyale

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Posted 28 April 2011 - 12:42 PM

Don't get your self blind, you won't be able to drive that beast later on.

To add to stiffness, I wonder if you can retrofit an old Strut tower bar from a Legacy/Impreza?

But then, all old Subarus did come with their own tower bar, Its called the spare tire support..! :lol:

#116 xbeerd

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Posted 29 April 2011 - 10:11 AM

Don't get your self blind, you won't be able to drive that beast later on.

To add to stiffness, I wonder if you can retrofit an old Strut tower bar from a Legacy/Impreza?

But then, all old Subarus did come with their own tower bar, Its called the spare tire support..! :lol:


haha. i wonder if you could modify the spare tire bar, and just weld in a piece connecting the 2 90 degree bends with some metal stock.
or weld in a solid piece the entire height and use a torch and cut someting out of it, like "catch this fox"


although that would relenquish the idea of keepin the spare tire in there (where the turbo goes!)

#117 MilesFox

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Posted 29 April 2011 - 07:06 PM

Aside from the orientation of the intake tube, the tire would fit around a turbo, but would have to go for a TMIC.

For a strut bar, i would prefer to find an SPT or STI factory option one, for originality/most retrofitability to real subaru parts.

I am thinking about rear e-brake setup, that i would have to modify the handle or ditch it, and maybe make a modification to the trans tunnel for the rearward cables. I can try to fit the 03 outback stuff and see what that does.

and then i cn get the sti handle for imprezas to look right with the rest of the car. if there was a leather rown one, that would be sweet!

I am thinking of a leather wrap for the steering wheel. kind of stodgy, but it's non-permanent

#118 MilesFox

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Posted 03 May 2011 - 01:25 PM

I gave up on the seam welding as i burned a hole in the floor on my 3rd weld. I decided it's not necessary or beneficial unless this car was caged and prepped for stage rally.

I went ahead and undercoated the trans tunnel, por 15's the shifter linkage, modified and hybrided my trans xmember to have double mounts, and stripped the firewall and de-rusted it.

Next step is to wash the engine bay with soap and water, and por 15.

i have custom mixed color match paint on its way, #569 Metallic Brown and some pro grade clearcoat to repaint the engine bay.

From there, i am ready to install the trans. in the meantime, i need to install the shifter. I am using the xt shifter which is quite complicated, so i need to mount it to the body first.

i am doing the electrolysis on the suspension pieces, so once the paint is applied, i can go ahead and assemble the engine cradle and control arms

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XT6 brake booster compared to the ea82. I will have to do a modification similar to shawn w's crossbred performance kit. I am going to compare pedal boxes and see if i can swap the pedal. otherwise, i will have to cut and weld
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#119 TheLoyale

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Posted 03 May 2011 - 01:33 PM

So how were you able to mod the rear most mounting brace on the crossmember?

#120 MilesFox

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Posted 03 May 2011 - 05:24 PM

So how were you able to mod the rear most mounting brace on the crossmember?


I forgot to take it with me to mock up. I was going to bolt up the front and center to the body, and bolt up the original cover plate piece that would otherwise be the at trans mount, drill my holes, and back it with some 1/8 flat stock to beef it up, and call that my mount.

It also looks like the trans mount on scott's 2000 legacy AT looks to be the same part as the xt6, but in much better shape. I am going to try and use that, and cram it full of 3M windo-weld

#121 MilesFox

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Posted 07 May 2011 - 12:18 PM

I had more pics, but when people randomly find my amera and view it, they delete them somehow, for f* sake:mad:

Here are the struts that came from my donor xt, with some sloppy coilover setup, compared to a complete pull off xt6 strut
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Here is the spring that was on the silver kyb strut, it was about 6 inches shorter than the travel of the strut. The KYB iis about 2 inches longer below the perch, and about 2 inches longer in travel
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And here we have a double coilover with the aftermarket hardware shoved inside an original xt6 strut and spring. The xt6 struts are manufactured by tockico. I wish i had some pink paint to paint the inner spring, but i am broke right now. But this whole thing may come apart for either kyb AGX struts, or oem sti struts
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#122 MilesFox

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Posted 07 May 2011 - 12:26 PM

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Chassis black for a factory look. The por15 is too glossy. I painted the control arms, radius rods, trans mout, and next, the crossmember. I decided to leave the knuckles glossy
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#123 TheLoyale

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Posted 07 May 2011 - 07:36 PM

Nergro Chasis Lol! Parts look moist for sure, I'm also digging those struts.

You have yet another engine crane in your garage?

#124 The Dude Abides

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Posted 07 May 2011 - 07:40 PM

Did that can seriously say Negro Chassis :lol: thats terrible.

#125 Idasho

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Posted 07 May 2011 - 08:28 PM

how else would you say black in Spanish? :confused:




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