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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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86 3door Runabout:FWD<FT4WD, 4 lug<5lug, EA82 carb<EJ22 or ER27 swap, rust removal


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198 replies to this topic

#126 MilesFox

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Posted 07 May 2011 - 10:54 PM

El NEgoro Porv\favor? El como zorro loco! (black, please, crazy like a fox)

I painted my underhood with real ppg crest brown metallic under the hood, 2 coats, waiting for clear, pics to come!

#127 Crazyeights

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Posted 07 May 2011 - 11:07 PM

Can't wait to see them, how did you prep the underhood area?

#128 TheLoyale

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Posted 07 May 2011 - 11:10 PM

Si, Su loco como un zorro...! (Yes, Your crazy like a Fox)


You are clearing the underhood, sweetness.

#129 MilesFox

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Posted 07 May 2011 - 11:50 PM

Can't wait to see them, how did you prep the underhood area?


As the car was originally, i had powerwashed and tire shined the underhood. It was clean from a detail standpoint. After removing the engine and driveline, I cleaned the engine bay by scrubbing down with a scotch brite pad and dish soap and water. Then i rinsed with fresh water and a rag. Beforehand, I used a knotted wire wheel on a 4 1/2" angle grinder to remove rust scale, and apply naval jelly.

After the prep, I use por-15 on the seams and rusty spots, primer on the por, and then 2 coats of ppg mix crest brown metallic. Factory shine:banana:. Next will be 2 coats of clear for show quality.

#130 MilesFox

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Posted 08 May 2011 - 12:01 AM

As i came to the car today, after washing and naval jelly
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POR-15 on the seams and rusty areas.
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painted parts
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NAPA stone guard black.
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Light primer on the black paint
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First coat PPG crest brown metallic #569
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Second coat:
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#131 dvilanj02

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Posted 08 May 2011 - 12:16 AM

Damn Fox, that thing is looking really nice!

#132 TheLoyale

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Posted 08 May 2011 - 09:50 AM

Yes! Now thats the way it should look, you have painted things even the factory missed. Looks great!

#133 MilesFox

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Posted 08 May 2011 - 09:59 AM

I went through a whole can for the first coat, and ran out before doing the strut tops. I finished the 2nd coat with 2/3 can, starting at the strut top, again for the tire well, all horizontal surfaces, then vertical, and then the front core support. I still have 1 full can do do touch-ups on the body.

I hope one can of clear will do the rest. I will focus mainly on the front, and the strut towers and tire well, as it will not be as noticeable if i skipp the lower frame rails and behind the headlights, battery tray, brake booster area.

I hope to get at the shop today and lay the clear, as i did not have the can with me yesterday. I forgot to get the mounts for the crossmember to bring home and refresh.

Today i will de-rust and paint the x-member, and from there, i can take it to the shop and install once i lay my clear. I can go ahead and install the struts at this point, once my paint hardens up for the strut top bolts

#134 MilesFox

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Posted 08 May 2011 - 11:12 PM

I painted the clear coat under the hood. I am not as pleased. I got a foggy spot where it was too thick. Overall more shiy, but somewhat textured. No one will notice with a motor in there!

I por-ed an airbox from an xt6, and the radiator condensor. Also the crossmember. These parts get chassis black tomorrow, and once the paint dries, onto the shop for install.
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the extra moistness on the condensor is water, not paint.
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This gets chassis black to even out the color
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Clearcoated trans, after a scrub with engine gunk and dish soap. This is awaiting seals from napa before install.

#135 TheLoyale

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Posted 08 May 2011 - 11:16 PM

Did you use the "Match-It" clear?

I do, and I don't like it either, the paint was shinier then the clear WTF.

That trans look perty moist, I say clean it up and clear it.

#136 MilesFox

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Posted 10 May 2011 - 01:07 PM

underhood looked better after clear by wiping the surfaces with a rag and a little polishing compound.

I got the trans crossmember together, double mounts! It's a tight fit, and the rubber wants to tear out. I would like to cram some urethane windo-weld in there.
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Trans in car, suspended by pitch stopper. If you ever notice on your ccars, you can jack up the trans to reove the engine, the pitch stopper is slotted to hold the trans at that angle without the jack, or to go up without removing it.
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crossmember holes drilled. This is the xt6 crossmember. There are some 'A' stampings here and there on this piece. The hole i needed to drill was exactly where a spot weld was.
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The car is now up on jackstands where it was once a rust hole
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Struts in, need new ball joints. Napa stone guard and black chassis paint over it and the existing rubber undercoat to make it all one color
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Waring looms run back through, I washed the sheaths, and need to re-tape a few spots. I am going to let it hang loose until more stuff is installed, so i dont have wires in the way of bumper bolts and ac lines, and until i get some dielectric grease
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swaybar and control arms, radius rods installed. Awaiting steering rack
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hoses loosely installed, pending motor install, to see what matches
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All you see is one day's work

#137 xbeerd

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Posted 10 May 2011 - 01:21 PM

Looks great man!

#138 TheLoyale

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Posted 10 May 2011 - 01:24 PM

Hell yeah! Man that is looking awesome. Thats some major Doctor-Ill right there.

New battery, how many CCA?

#139 MilesFox

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Posted 10 May 2011 - 02:03 PM

oreilley generic battery, standard size. Maybe one day i will drop the coin on an optima dual purpose battery. If i was really a stickler for numbers-matching resto, it should have an interstate battery as it came form the factory

I forgot to mention i used polishing compound to clean the overflow jug, the vacuum canister, and i clearcoated the cansiter bracket and the relay bank brackat after washing them in soap and water, to retain thir natural color, since most of the green coating and the yellow plating was still new looking.

#140 MilesFox

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Posted 13 May 2011 - 10:28 PM

Another day's work. I cleaned and installed the steering rack. Tighened up the swaybar bolts.

I chopped the xt brake booster to fit the 3door, cut the rod to the pedal short and re-welded it. There is a turnable adjustment, which i need to do bto match the pedal travel befoe bolting in the pedal assembly.

I cleaned and detailed the master cylinder and hill holder. I washed out the reservoir, wire wheeled the brackets, and clearcoated them and all the brake lines. They are now installed.

I also installed a NEW xt6 clutch cable. I have to remove the clutch pedal to swap it. The FWD cable is physically different on the fork side, shorter thread and different nugget.

I snapped down the wire harness along the core support, and installed the dryer side of the AC lines. I used some polish compounds on the aluminum, and clearcoated. I painted the dryer chassis black, and wire wheeled the charcoal can bracket and clearcoated.

I got my trans seals to change them, and find the rest of the shifter assembly bracket inside the car, as it is xt specific with more complicated mounting.

I dropped off my flywheels to a machinist to match the holes, and to cut a new surface. They should be ready by noon. Tomorrow i want to install the lutch cabel and pedal assembly, and steering column to the rack. This would be easiest before the motor goes in. I can go get my flywheel from the machinist and bolt in the motor, but i still may need to drill holes in the crossmember for the engine mounts, or maybe swap the xt6 mounts, but they are nasty. I would like to retrofit the front dogbone on the xt6 motor to the gl body and the ej22.

I am still trying to decide where i should cut a hole for the harness grommet, as it used an existing hole on the brat, but the gl has no hole on the firewall, and its harness goes behind the strut tower. Plus, the ej computer mounts in the passenger footwell, right where my floor is rsted out. I would like to mount it to the steering column, and bring the harness in from the grommet on the driver side near the wiper motor.

I may be forced to mount hte ECU behid the glovebox somewhere, so i would have to cut a hole for the grommet somewhere on the firewall, most likely

master cylinder and hill holder
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Xt pedal set vs GL pedal set. The XT is longer. I had to cut and shorten the xt6 brake booster to work with the gl pedal box.
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Galvanize in a can. I was too lazt to mess with por 15, as it is best used when you have a whole line of parts ready to paint. This part of the brake booster was rusty. The xt6 brake booster is deeper than the GL
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Hood latch. Painted with ZRC as it was bare metal with surface rust and white corrosion. I wire wheeled it, ZRC, then clearcoat. Lube with white lithium grease. Wire wheel and clearcoat the bolts and screws
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Brake booster painted chassis black, and hill holder loosely installed
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XT6 steering rack and lines installed. I went with the xt6 rack for quiker steering(i would assume) and hoping it will be good with ATF with a regular belt driven pump.
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Cluth pedal has to come off to change cable
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#141 Numbchux

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Posted 14 May 2011 - 12:33 AM

You can see in this pic where I started with the hole saw to make a hole for the wiring for the OBD II '86 I did a few years ago. ECU was mounted to the steering column:
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You can kind of see it all installed here:
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Re-used the impreza grommet, bought a hole saw to match the size. Worked great!

#142 MilesFox

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Posted 14 May 2011 - 10:46 PM

Did you run a larger fuel line? Where does that hole come through behind the firewall? I like the ecu mounted to the steering column.

I had my flywheel resurface and partially slotted by a machinist, just to find out that the supplied flywheel was an ea82 although it was mated to a 4spd. So i went with the pre-slotted ea82. I did a little more grinding fter the machinist with a dremel and cutting bit, and stone bit. Too tedious.
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I had dropped the transission since the flywheel was not ready, and bolted on the vacuum diaphragm.
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I test fitted the motor with no trans to see clearances. The motor mount holes are the same width on the crossmember. The alternator wasall up on the core support.
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Now the motor and trans are installed.. the motor mount studs are farther back than the holes, as i was expecting. I will have to drill a hole about 1/4 inch back, or just slot it.
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There was this thingee leftover from the brat for the alternatpr. There is also an alternator harness cut-off from a junkyard motor.

I will be using a power steering pump and mpfi cover from an ej22e. I would like to not use the dildoey big airbox on this ingeine, but insted the old school tube to a steel airbox on the fender. I will have to figure out a MAF delete without it looking jank. I will have to make a hole for the MAP sensor up near the throttle body. I will have to use old school pcv hoses.

The orientation af the brake booster hose is different, so no gl or xt6 hoe. A legacy hose may fit. Also no go with either heater hoses. I am hoping legacy hoses will fit.

I wish to keep the AC, the xt6 pump is way different, the GL pump looks like it will fit on the ej bracket, but wrong pulley. The legacy compressor has the wrong fittings. I wonder if a 4cyl xt would work, same compressor with flat belt pulley. I would need legacy ac lines to see of they fit the gl side.

I am hoping an ea82 power steering line fits the ej pump

Tomorrow i will fit the radiator, wioer motor, and tape up the ac relay harness and mount it, plug all of it in, and figure out which parts of the original harness i need for the oil and temp sensors, tach, etc.

I may go as far as installing the dash, but i also want to swap in a digi dash. I am hoping an 87 gl10 dash harness plugs into the car on both ends and operates. This may give me the option for cruise control, if i want to lose the brown steering wheel

#143 MilesFox

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Posted 15 May 2011 - 09:50 PM

More work toay, i punched a hole through the firewall. my hole is juat a tad larger than the grommet. The harness runs behind the heater box and to the steering column. I used a hole saw, and then dremel cutoff wheels

I anstalled the xt6 axles, and tightened down all the suspenson bolts.

I am going to have to use the ej22e bracketry for th power steering, ac, and use its alt to work with the existing ps pump and ac pump that i have. I am swapping to ej22e alternator since i have the wiring plugs for it.
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#144 MilesFox

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Posted 16 May 2011 - 10:54 PM

I connected the xt6 steering lines to the rack and the ej pump. The ea82 lines do not fit the ej pump. the pump i am using is form an ej22e. I had to swap the bracket as the hole spacing was narrower.

I was clever to use the strut tower mounting point from the xt6 on the framerail of the ea82 body to an existing threaded hole.

The line will fit better if i use a straight hose or turn it differently
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I forgot what bolt went here, but it will line up. I have buckets of bolts, if this thing has a bushing or what not.
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Basket o goodies form a 93 legacy and an 94 impreza at the junkyard. I kept a lot of clamps, factory zip ties, and mounting brackets to the MPFI cover, fuel filter hoses and lines, pcv, intake boot hoses, MAF and AC lines. All of the parts are from the 93 legacy, with one heater hose from the impreza, and its ac lines The fat side of the line fits on the firewall, and the mounting bracket is mostly compatible(pitch bar in the way) if i use the right compressor.
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Fuel filter mounted. Xt6 filter with legacy bracket. I used the hole where the little wire retainer is near the fuel line bracket. I was able to re-use the original mount for the carb lines on the top of the strut tower.The legacy mount would be vertical on the firewall, but there are no holes. horizontal was an option, but too all up on the oolant jug. The filter should be in the area whre it is. I wish i had a GL fuel pump mount for spfi or mpfi, since this one was carb. I will have to adapt some diameters of hose, and figure out the purce circuit and charcoal canister, since i would like to keep it for original looks, and have it function, since the engine was designed with charcoal can under the trunk.
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I used the damper as it came off the xt6, and i am using the xt6 pump. It made a good splice using a mix of original hose and legacy hose. The legacy hose says "SUBARU" all along the length.
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#145 MilesFox

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Posted 16 May 2011 - 11:30 PM

Brass marine terminals with impreza rubber piece and the car's original bettery cables.
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The PCV hoses from the junkyard are just too short, since the pcv fittong on the valve covers moved from the rear to the center. I will have to make a splice on both sides
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There is no IAC on this engine
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Heater hoses fom impreza and legacy, they are both the same hose from the same side of the heater core on both donor cars.
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They fit better tucked this way, i may cut one short by half an inch to make the tuck better. I would like to re-use the original foam from the gl hoses around the starter
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#146 Numbchux

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Posted 17 May 2011 - 07:27 AM

The ea82 lines do not fit the ej pump.


sure they do. I've done it on 2 different cars, with numerous pump/line/rack combinations.

#147 MilesFox

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Posted 17 May 2011 - 07:34 AM

come to think of it, the hard line comes of the pump side that has the female fitting. I got you now. I shoudl dry that and see if it fits better than the xt.

#148 Numbchux

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Posted 17 May 2011 - 06:19 PM

you still have to route it goofy, as the EA82 pump is in the center of the motor, and the EJ one is off to the side. But the fittings are the same.


Best option would be EJ lines, as the fittings are the same on those as well, but they would be fit to the motor, and only have to be re-routed down where you can't see them.

#149 MilesFox

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Posted 17 May 2011 - 10:19 PM

I would have to go with an ej rack, since the lines for it come up through a hole in the crossmember that is not present on most ea82's, whereas the xt6 is ea82 like in hookup with the lines that go along the crossmember and tie into the steering shaft. Teh ej comes off the body of the rack and curves around and pokes up through the hole in the crossmember.

I was going to try the ea82, and chose which fits best clean look.

I played with ac lines. I swapped back to 2000 outback compressor and mount, and was able to fit a 94 impreza upper line on rhis compressor. I had to bend the fitting to fit right, and cut off the firewall mount. I am going to try and use the gl mounting tabs.
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^^^^the line is not fastened down all the way in this pic. the original comprssor has 2 wires, one for the clutch, one for the pulser. I am gong to have to figure a way around this, could i just swap the pulser over to this compressor?
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This part i am pontong to sill have to be spliced somehow. I will need to go back to the yard and get the impreza line that would fit this compressor. The original line is steel, and the impreza line is aluminum. Perhaps i can get the hoses crimped together for the right ends, or have the other one flared for the nut fitting


Radiator is in. The hose is an ea82 sleeved inside the ej with a hose clamp. It worked in the brat, and this radiator was in the brat, came from my rx, painted with ZRC, but the fins are beat up on the fan side.
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ej22e alternator and p/s pump, with metal cover and oldschool genuine subaru belt(junkyard pull-off) I have a gates belt from the yard somewhere, it is new.

Front wheels on
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Turbo legacy rims
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I cannot fit my finger between the strut and the tire
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Edited by MilesFox, 17 May 2011 - 10:22 PM.


#150 MilesFox

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Posted 18 May 2011 - 10:47 PM

I mounted the carcoal can today. I had to do some odd routing as i broke the nipple off the purge solenoid trying to pull the hose. I used one from a 2nd gen ej22, the connector was different, so i busted off the plastic to expose the terminals to plug it in.

The vent line comes to the solenoid, to the canister, and back to manifold vacuum. there is another port that would go the metered vacuum, but this is not present on this engine. I hope this is correct. I used an spfi as an example. I relocated the solenoid from underneath to the side of the manifold for better access.
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I mounted the xt6 airbox(ea82 mpfi) it turns out my steering lines stole the mounting hole for it, so i used the same rubber piece fom the steering line mount as the airbox mount. I dod not have the right grommets for the rest of the holes, but i salvaged a radiator grommet instead.

The airbox is shaped differently, so the intake tube turns the wrong way. I am going to have to cut the tube to fit it to a dummy maf, or go the the auto store and try to find an adapter piece that does not look like poo poo. I could go with a plastic airbox, but i hate plastic parts that are supposed to be metal. I want this to look like a first gen ej22 under the hood.
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I went and found the bolts to the compressor at scott's place, nad found the ac lines original to that comressor. It turns out the one line had fitted was the high side connected to the low port. I am going to have to hybrid lines, either by tig weld, hydraulic shop that can crimp the fittings, compression fittings, or ugly barb fittings with hose clamps.

I will have to find a shop wheo can crimp hoses, but the diameters are different on the low side. I hope a compression fitting will work, and the original line is steel where it will meet aluminum with the fitting.

I will need to go to scotts and swap him out for the ac bracket, since the threads are different, and the lower part of the bracket does not match. Scott will not need his bracket as he is going ac-less, and anty bracket will do, just to mount the alternator, so i will trade him the original one to this engine.

I got all my fuel lines connected today. I had to make some adapter fittings with brass fitting and worm clamps, but i have oem stainless fittings everywhere but the firewall.

I connected the upper radiator hose by sleeving the ea82 hose inside of the ej hose and secureing with a hose clamp. I still have to do the lower hose, and mount the fan, and then onto exhausts. I am trying to contempate a way to do true dual exhaust with some sot of x pattern with 2 cats, maybe some sort of double x pattern to use the downstream o2 effectively.

Ideally, this car should have a functioning purge control, and pass emissions with no codes, with everything working as it would from the factory.

i will have to make a hole for the MAP sensor, and cap off the IAC port on the intake tube
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