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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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86 3door Runabout:FWD<FT4WD, 4 lug<5lug, EA82 carb<EJ22 or ER27 swap, rust removal


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198 replies to this topic

#151 TheLoyale

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Posted 18 May 2011 - 10:55 PM

WOW, sure has come a long way in a short time.

Thats the XT6 air box yeah?

Wish I could have come down more to film all this goodness, Maybe I can at least get the first start-up when you do it. Or at least re-enact it for the sake of film.

Looks very good!

#152 jboymechanic

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Posted 19 May 2011 - 10:31 PM

Yeah Miles, you are flyin' on this baby.

#153 TheLoyale

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Posted 19 May 2011 - 10:51 PM

Yeah Miles, you are flyin' on this baby.


Yeah I was over there today, we finished some wiring, gots the fenders on, put on the 15" Alloy GT wheels, it now stands on its own!

I like the stance it has, has a decent rake on it and looks badass. Has a Stinkbug stance.

#154 MilesFox

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Posted 20 May 2011 - 11:02 PM

I mounted the dashboard after tom left.
I got the fenders and marker lites, grille and grille support bolted to the 3door. I need to find the screws for the valence. I fitted the bumper, but have not bolted it. She looks like a car again, rollin east coast style with the stink bug stance. I like the look, especially if it had a wing, ultra wedge, but if it rides funny, i got the xt pull-offs from clint to drop it down even with the front.

I also mounted the dashboard. I had a Bee-oTCH of a time. First, the steering column was not far enough forward for the mount holes to line up. So i loosened the ujoint under the hood to push it further. Then that bolt would not go in, and all of a sudden the wheel is off a spline. So after about 3 attempts, and resorted to laying under the car to get the bolt, i finally got it.

Then the clutch pedal was floppy. It was missing a bushing, since the whole dam pedal has to come off to change the cable, and there is a bracket that is clocked with the spring which is a *************** to line up and thread bolts.

Other than that, the hazard came on when i made some plug-ins, and the key turns on and cranks the engine. This car is now mechanically complete from the dashboard forward.

The xt shifter is a bit goofy, and i may have to modif,y bend or cut it down to fit right, as i am afraid the center console will not clear it, and the xt trans tunnel is shallower with a flatter angle of attack to the floor.

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Diff mounted.
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Holes drilled. these bolts are temporary until i can get to a hardware store. these are extraneous bellhousing bolts out of 3 5 gallon buckets of subaru bolts, as testament to how many soobs have been torn down.
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These are the bolts form inside the car. They come through the wheel well seam where it meets the floor. They will be hidden by the interior panleing.
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I still have to make a carrier bearing mount. I will have to bend the shifter to clear the center console. The shifter will be farther back than normal. I may have to shorten it, since that section of the tunnel is longer on an xt, and shallower with a flatter angle of attack. I would need a single range gl/loyale/dl shifter to fit properly with no mods. I would like this with the 4wd button as the diff lock.

From here, all that is left is the rear wheel bearing, install the rear swaybar, and install the exhaust. Iam saving the best part(the harness) for last. This way, when i get the car to run, i can go ahead and drive it!:banana:


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#155 TheLoyale

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Posted 20 May 2011 - 11:47 PM

Did you climb a shelf to get that view? Industrious Miles Fox, the lengths he goes through to get every Subaru in one shot. :)

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#156 jboymechanic

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Posted 20 May 2011 - 11:58 PM

So what engine is going into the BRAT and where is the Brighton?

#157 TheLoyale

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Posted 21 May 2011 - 12:04 AM

An EA82T may be going into the Brat, and the Brighton is Outside waiting for its HGs tomorrow.

#158 MilesFox

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Posted 21 May 2011 - 08:42 AM

Got more subarus than room to work on them. You gotta be clever about rotating the fleet to keep operations going.

#159 jboymechanic

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Posted 21 May 2011 - 06:19 PM

So what vehicle will be receiving the EJ22 that I sold you Miles? Just curious.

#160 MilesFox

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 08:29 AM

I am looking to build that up as a spare, hopefully on a 2.5 block with cam, header. It may supercede the engine i have now, so long as the intake fits the same.

more pics of last week. These pics were of the last weeks's work.



I'll let the cat out of the bag and say that this thing runs and would drive once i bleed the brake.

Excess harness trimming
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Terminal strips! This will make the harness quick changeable to the car body
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carrier bearing mount
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carrier mount bolt thrugh floor
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working fuel pump
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I had to relocate the fuel filter due to the lines being hooked up wrong(using carb fuel lines and vent lines for charcoal canister), and this fits better anyway
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Interior going back together. I used some meguiars plastic conditioner to treat all of my interior. It has a pleasent fruit or berry smell. So the car has been shut tight over the last few days, and when i open the door, it smells like barbecue sauce? :confused: I did spill a beer when the carpet was out
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#161 TheLoyale

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 08:59 AM

Barbecue sauce in my axle boot, gettin' on my cream corn now cause it feels right.

#162 jboymechanic

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 10:19 AM

Interior going back together. I used some meguiars plastic conditioner to treat all of my interior. It has a pleasent fruit or berry smell. So the car has been shut tight over the last few days, and when i open the door, it smells like barbecue sauce?]


What's wrong with that?

#163 jboymechanic

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 10:20 AM

Barbecue sauce in my axle boot, gettin' on my cream corn now cause it feels right.


What's wrong with you? :lol:

#164 MilesFox

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 11:31 AM

I suppose i should air out the car. I have it all closed up tighter than a wad to keep dust from the shop out. Soon i will be able to washe the car. I should have cleaned up the spilled beer before installing the carpet!

the carpet may have to come back up to fix the rust hole on the passenger side, and i forgot to stick the fuel door lever through the hole in the carpet on the driver side.

I just wanted the car put back together for show purposes for now, until i get into more body work and the rx body kit.

#165 xbeerd

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Posted 01 June 2011 - 11:28 AM

awesome to hear it runs dude!

i gotta get moving on my swap stuff. as far as i can tell the wiring is good on my end. too bad we couldnt swap my harness into your car one day and see what happens! ha!:lol:

#166 subaruguru

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Posted 06 June 2011 - 02:35 PM

Its looking great miles i like how you are going the extra step to fit the harness in, thats how i plan to do the brat keep up the good work.

Cheers R.

#167 MilesFox

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Posted 09 June 2011 - 09:07 AM

Out of the shop! I drove half a mile to the gas station with a flat tire. Got there to not have the gas pumps work. i paid 1 dollar to air the tire.
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I got the car home, the driveshaft rubs on its mount, and there was a fuel
leak....

Back in the garage for the first time
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The legacy had to forfeit its parking spot:eek:


I fixed the driveshaft by jacking up on the carrier mount, flexing my bracket enough that it is no longer rubbing, and the driveshaft is further up in the tunnel more where it should be

The fuel leak was a simple tension clamp that i forgot to replace with a screw clamp. I replaced that section of hose with high pressure line from e legacy fuel filter. This car was carb with the wrong hose and clamps for high pressure fuel

I mounted the body kit! I used pan head self tapping #10 stainless screws, and #12 washers. 22 screws for the side skirts, 18 for the rear parts, and i need some more 6x100 bolts for the front air dam and the rear wing.
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The front valence is a bit different
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#168 1982gl4

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Posted 10 June 2011 - 06:19 PM

Looking good! I love the rx kit, along with the lego wheels, the first gen turbo/outback wheels were my fist choice when I did my five lug as well, the look very good on the old gens!

#169 MilesFox

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Posted 13 June 2011 - 09:50 AM

I stole the bumpers from the 88 3door to re-finish them and paint them to match the brown like a gl-10 would be. I used my last can of paint between the bumper and the wing. the wing turned out great! the bumper needs another coat. I will have to order more paint to do the wheel arches, and i would like to paint the mirrors body color.

Light sanding to take the dingy off 100 grit
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2 in one primer coat, one coat
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wet sanding 400 grit, rinse with hose
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This bumper is being re-conditioned. i por15 the metal parts behind the skin, and the strip with all the screws after uing a wire brush.

This was sanded down mainly with 100 grit to get the flaky paint down
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The blue parts will be nice and smooth. The balck part is pocked and cracked, blasted by granite gravel roads, and the paint cracking fro the plastic flexing. Overall, bumper is straight with no gouges or rips, and it is not near as rusty as what i thought it would be.
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sanded, washed, and hung to dry
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smoother
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red hight build primer to fill in the cracks and pits. I may need glazing putty to finish, but the red primer filled in 75% of imperfections, but some of the cracks just wont fill with the paint. I painted one coat, sanded, painted again, sanded agian, 3rd time should do it where needed. still may need glazing putty.
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And now the yummiest and most delicous..........

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This was the bottom of the can, after i painted the wing. the coverage is thin on the bottom, as illuminated by the flash. I could not see this until after i had taken the picture. but it is ready to install for show purposes at the don miller meet. I am painting toe top satin black. I found gold pinstriping to replae the 'chrome' channel
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The wing turned out great. I it looks thin on the edges, i already painted over that after the pics. The wing is great. I am very plaeased. I will clearcoat it, then wash and polish my car, and then install and be done!
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Edited by MilesFox, 13 June 2011 - 09:59 AM.


#170 MilesFox

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Posted 14 June 2011 - 09:39 AM

Painted bumper
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Fenders hanging. This dude keeps getting in my pictures, and this one after he knocked a fender off the line. no biggie
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por 15, and then napa stone guard
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Gold Paint! i went to 4 different places to finally settle on Rust-Oleum 'gold rush' metallic. these parts were first sanded with 220, then white primer, then wetsand 400 grit, athen 2 coats paint, then will get one coat clear
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#171 alexinvancouver

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Posted 14 June 2011 - 07:42 PM

i can't believe the amount of work you put into it!
you might as well build a new car body from the scratch =o)
i wonder if you had to shorten drive shaft and axles
i'm just asking because i got 86 hatch and will be doing complete engine/transmission/suspension swap
in a while and started looking for a donor car.
any advice? especially on suspension and drivetrain part
was ready to buy 96 legacy turbo cheap for a donor but it has auto tranny
and i think dohc engine is a bit too big

#172 MilesFox

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Posted 15 June 2011 - 02:25 AM

If you have an ea82 body your car will be like mine. If its an ea81 body, you will have to either modify the axles, or modify the crossmember/control arms.

a DOHC engine will fit the same.

I used an 89 xt6 for a donor.

all the driveline was bolt-up to the body. I had to modify the shifter, since my donor car was an xt. A 5spd pushbutton shifter would be a direct fit.

I had to make a mount for the driveshaft, since this car was FWD to start tout.

Dimensionally, all of the swap bolts in the same.

#173 alexinvancouver

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Posted 16 June 2011 - 12:09 AM

this is my car
don't know about the body but i'm pretty sure it has e81 engine in it
next to it is also subie ...but almost 25 years younger =o)
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Edited by alexinvancouver, 16 June 2011 - 12:15 AM.


#174 Numbchux

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Posted 16 June 2011 - 01:05 AM

yea, that's an EA81. DOHC engine won't fit without notching the frame rails.


Although I don't know what turbo DOHC '96 legacy you might be looking at. They didn't sell 'em like that....not in North America, anyway.

#175 MilesFox

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Posted 16 June 2011 - 10:34 AM

Rear portion of the passenger side rocker sill. The rust was scraped off with a file, and 60 grit sandpaper
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pinch welds, same affair
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POR 15 on the rusty spots. this is behind the pinchweld. This will get faberglass later.
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POR on the wheel arches and a few spots i missed when i had the rear suspension apart.
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Fiberglass using the woven stuff and the gel you mix up like bondo. the outer layer is the woven stuff. I rolled a portion of it to dupliate the roll in the rocker sill, to not have a gap in the side skirt. It's not perfect, but it's not a hole in the side of my car, either.
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60 grit, light body filler, 100 grit, glazing putty, 220 grit
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2 coats of stone guard black. 2 coats, 2 coats, is all it takes! Then i used white rustoleum primer, 2 coats, before painting
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2.5 coats of gold. Rustoleum 'gold rush' metallic
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close up of texture with stone guard
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The gold got 2 coats of rustoleum 'automotive' clar coat. Home Depot carries a full line of rustoleum including specialty and limited products

Here is my workspace in the garage. I have the lantern to see my paint up close as i'm painting.
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And sega genesis to end the night, no fighting over 1 player games!
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