bratclay Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 I got the front figured out. Im goin to start that now. But what Im not seeing is the back. Pics of it installed and dims on the straps. What is the measurement between holes before its bent? Is it bent at 15*? Pics of it installed please. I got the info from the tread just below, "Lost Block Pics" Thanks subi gang for all your help. Excited bout gettin my girls loyale lifted and wheels and tires on it. I will post pics once I figure out how. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vegablade Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 How do you feet about cutting and welding the strut? You can cut off the mount on the bottom of the strut being careful not to puncture it, then you can weld in a 2" long piece of pipe. That's how Jeff And Rick did my car. Jeff might jump in and offer some more info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratclay Posted January 16, 2011 Author Share Posted January 16, 2011 Do you have any picks? If can show me so I can get an idea what your talkin bout. My internet is down. I'm in the shop workin on the blocks rite now. I'm only able to get on by my blackberry rite now. Thanks so much guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vegablade Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Well i could take a picture of it tomorrow in the daylight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratclay Posted January 16, 2011 Author Share Posted January 16, 2011 Thanks I appreciate it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
one eye Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 (edited) This is mine off my car its an 8" lift but you can see how you cut the eye off the bottom strut and add how ever much you want for your lift......... 3eyedwagon added that piece on the back to make it stronger, on the 2" you dont need to do that................. Jeff Edited January 16, 2011 by one eye Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brysawn Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Do you have any picks? If can show me so I can get an idea what your talkin bout. My internet is down. I'm in the shop workin on the blocks rite now. I'm only able to get on by my blackberry rite now. Thanks so much guys I also cut and welded an extension for my struts. I used 1" ID galvanized rigid piping (2" in length). It is extremely strong, and the perfect size. I have done many of the strut extensions and only cut one when cutting the eyelet off. I've got a pretty good system down for holding the extension and strut in place when I'm welding them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratclay Posted January 16, 2011 Author Share Posted January 16, 2011 Can you guys tell me more about the cutting the strut. I have to extra struts. I can cut those and weld pipe. Im not sure where Im supposed to cut. Just after the eye on the bottom rite? Then just add 2" of pip weld to strut and weld eye back on? What bout weldin on the strut it doesnt heat up the gas inside??? Thanks guys. Im heading to the shop now to paint the wheels and figure out how the rear is goin. I will take pics of everything just dont know how to post. I got the front lift made and painted. Im goin to install the lift later today. If I get the back figured out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brysawn Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Can you guys tell me more about the cutting the strut. I have to extra struts. I can cut those and weld pipe. Im not sure where Im supposed to cut. Just after the eye on the bottom rite? Then just add 2" of pip weld to strut and weld eye back on? What bout weldin on the strut it doesnt heat up the gas inside??? When cutting the eyelet off, you need to be very careful to not hit the strut. It is very easy to do, but luckily struts are inexpensive at any pull-a-part. What you need to do is get the proper sized pipe and weld one side to the eyelet, and the other to the strut. But you have to be careful to not melt the rubber (?) bushings in the eyelet, and the oil inside the strut. What I did was after each weld I would dump water on the welds (or put a drenched rag, or put the strut/eyelet in a bucket of water) that way I didn't melt, burn, or ruin any part of the eyelet or strut. It is very tough to do at first, but after making a bunch of them, I've got the system down. There may be other ways of doing it, but in the 10+ that I have made, not one has had an issue. No cracks, breaking, or bending. And the set on my car has been on for 20k miles and been wheeled hard and daily driven and never had an issue. I guess there isn't really a "correct" way to do it. Just use your better judgement and decide whether or not it is safe, strong, and reliable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratclay Posted January 17, 2011 Author Share Posted January 17, 2011 (edited) Well I got the front blocks welded up and painted. I also got the new 14" redrilled mazda wheels painted ready for my tires to be mounted. I will have pics of them too. Im making a rear bracket to lift. Ill have that done tomorrow. I have to go get a new blade for the saw. I will have pics of the lift when Im done. I dont know how to post them but I can email them and someone else can post them for me ;) I will also have pics of the car before and after. Edited January 17, 2011 by bratclay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratclay Posted January 17, 2011 Author Share Posted January 17, 2011 (edited) Just got a Flickr acct made so now I can post pics. Edited January 18, 2011 by bratclay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maozebong Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 (edited) you are gonna have a hell of a time getting those blocks with welded bolts in. when i did mine (2 days ago lol) i didnt weld them on the advice of one eye. that way you dont have to jam the strut down farther than 2 in. you can get away with only unbolting the sway bar link and the strut that way. it was tight fitting without it, i cant imagine trying to get it with the bolts welded. also the rear straps (at least ones i made) are 4in long, 1 3/4" wide and 3/8'' thick. they are heated and bent at a 45* angle in the middle. drill holes at each end about 3/4'' from the end and centered. pretty simple stuff. also keep in mind you are going to need a 1/2" hole for the straps. the rear shock bolts are rather large. i didnt have any issues with alignment in the rear and didnt have to weld anything. Edited January 18, 2011 by maozebong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratclay Posted January 18, 2011 Author Share Posted January 18, 2011 Thank for the advice and heads up on what trouble I will have when I go to install them. I made my back 5"x1 1/2"x3/8". I cut them at 5" instead of 4". So after I bend them at 45* I will have 2.5" lift in the rear instead of 2". This way the back sits a little higher and when she puts all her stuff and friends in the back it wont sag. Im also thinking about adding a round disk 1/2" thick with holes drilled to match the strut pattern and put that between the blocks and body. More support and alittle bit more lift. If anyone in my area needs me to build them one. I am goin to be making a few to sell. I know it doesnt take much. Just a little material and time. But Im home bound and trying to make some extra money while Im having to stay home. I can also install them too as well as other things. Swap motors, trannys, and clutchs. Just pm if you need anything. I will post pics of befor and after Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brysawn Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 you are gonna have a hell of a time getting those blocks with welded bolts in. when i did mine (2 days ago lol) i didnt weld them on the advice of one eye. that way you dont have to jam the strut down farther than 2 in. you can get away with only unbolting the sway bar link and the strut that way. it was tight fitting without it, i cant imagine trying to get it with the bolts welded. That's weird. I had my bolts welded and I didn't have any trouble getting the blocks in. You just need to be smarter than what you're working with Also, this wrench that WASHroad made looks very helpful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratclay Posted January 18, 2011 Author Share Posted January 18, 2011 Thanks. Thats what I was thinkin but didnt say it. I was planning already to bend me a old wrench. If I start installing a bunch. Ill bend me a gear wrench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael appel Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 I used angle iron in the rear and used a press to get the shape i needed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maozebong Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 (edited) That's weird. I had my bolts welded and I didn't have any trouble getting the blocks in. You just need to be smarter than what you're working with Also, this wrench that WASHroad made looks very helpful did you take the strut out? i just popped off the sway bar link and the strut tops and put a boot on the hub. i had my fronts installed in about 30-45 min tops (not bad for a first timer)... i also used a 3/8s impact gun, and a crows foot socket for holding the bolt on the underside. i tightened the blocks to the top with a swivel sockets or wrenches. only reason it wasnt doing down any farther was because the axle was hitting the crossmember. idk if its the same in other cases, but i guess that's mine. i got lotsa tools to make my day easy. edit: bratclay, you have the exact same wheels as i do lol. i got mine for 35 bucks off craigslist. and i rattle canned em black too! ha Edited January 19, 2011 by maozebong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brysawn Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 did you take the strut out? i just popped off the sway bar link and the strut tops and put a boot on the hub. i had my fronts installed in about 30-45 min tops (not bad for a first timer)... i also used a 3/8s impact gun, and a crows foot socket for holding the bolt on the underside. i tightened the blocks to the top with a swivel sockets or wrenches. Nope, I just took off the sway bar, and something else. But I can't remember. It was really simple, and didn't take too long. Different strokes for different folks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratclay Posted January 19, 2011 Author Share Posted January 19, 2011 edit: bratclay, you have the exact same wheels as i do lol. i got mine for 35 bucks off craigslist. and i rattle canned em black too! ha HA HA. They are for my girls loyale. I got pugs for mine. LOL. Yea we got the 5 mazda 14" 6lug already redrilled for 45 bucks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratclay Posted January 19, 2011 Author Share Posted January 19, 2011 I finally got the rear brackets made. I put flatbar between the two angle pieces to help strengthen it up making it really heavy duty. My girls not goin to 4x4 it that hard put its good for people that want a really nice heavy duty lift on a budget. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratclay Posted January 20, 2011 Author Share Posted January 20, 2011 (edited) Here is pic before I lifted it. Here is pic of rear lift. Its actually bout 3" LOL Here is pic of rear bracket on car. Here it is with front lifted Here is lift blocks installed. Edited January 20, 2011 by bratclay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubaruGL Posted March 19, 2011 Share Posted March 19, 2011 Thanks for the thread and information here bratclay! Very helpful. I had been having problems finding a picture of the setup to use for the rear and your picture was small but was what I needed to see! Good job. Going to try and make my own lift kit in the upcoming weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratclay Posted March 20, 2011 Author Share Posted March 20, 2011 Thanks for the thread and information here bratclay! Very helpful. I had been having problems finding a picture of the setup to use for the rear and your picture was small but was what I needed to see! Good job. Going to try and make my own lift kit in the upcoming weeks. No Problem SubaruGL, On that lift I did on my girls loyale. Those rear brakets are a total of 3" lift. If you cut and bend a 4" piece of FB for the rear lift I usually dont use a cross bar like I did on the 3" lift. Not really any room for one on the 2" lift in the rear. It will still be fine without the cross bar its just added strenght on the 3". I also can make a lift kit for whoever needs one. Thats what I do, work and fix up subis, lift them and customize them. GO SUBI Thanks Clay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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