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EA81 Igniter Module Test


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12 replies to this topic

#1 tucka786

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Posted 16 January 2011 - 09:27 AM

I need some advice to test an igniter module from my Hitachi disty . Is there any test with a multimeter ? should there be continuity between the two terminals on the ignition module ?

Thanks. Tucker.

#2 edrach

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Posted 16 January 2011 - 10:32 AM

I need some advice to test an igniter module from my Hitachi disty . Is there any test with a multimeter ? should there be continuity between the two terminals on the ignition module ?

Thanks. Tucker.

Many of the after market parts stores have a tester for many of the ignition modules including the Hitachi one. Have them tested at two or three places if you can, because some stores are more interested in selling you a new one than really testing them properly. Have them tested repeatedly until the module is fully warmed up since, failure is often related to temperature.

Just a comment, if you think it's bad it probably is. Ignition modules tend to fail intermittantly and after they get warmed up. Failure gets to happen more often until the module is replaced. This module costs anywhere from $90 to $200 depending on manufacturer and warranty. I found that the $90 ones work just fine once you get past the first 30 days of the warranty.

When I had two Brat and two early GL wagons in the family, I used to pick up the ignitors I found at the local PAP (under $5 each) and take them to the auto parts store and had them tested. Each of our EA81 cars had an ignition module in the glove box. I might even still have a few lying around.

This is a comment I got from the counter person when I had a Schuck's module tested. "Schuck's modules tend to fail about a week after jump starting someone else's car with your car." I don't know if that's true or not, but I had brought the module in for testing when I had intermittant "no spark" failures on my brat. And I had jump started someone else's car a couple of weeks earlier.

Testing with a multimeter: I don't know if that's accurate. If there's a short or open that's permanent, that might work; but the modules usually fail after they warm up and a multimeter won't test under those conditions. Also, there are three test points: the two obvious ones and the grounded metal base is the third one.

Edited by edrach, 16 January 2011 - 10:35 AM.


#3 tucka786

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Posted 16 January 2011 - 11:08 AM

has spark at the coil & coil lead
has spark at the plugs
has fuel in the carby
tdc, disty set correctly
good compression

still won't fire what am i missing here


Is it possible for a faulty module to still a throw a spark to the plugs ? or would it be a no spark situation at the plugs? I can't see what else it can be and its the only part that I have not replaced.

thanks

Edited by tucka786, 16 January 2011 - 11:38 AM.


#4 naru

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Posted 16 January 2011 - 11:26 AM

I need some advice to test an igniter module from my Hitachi disty . Is there any test with a multimeter ? should there be continuity between the two terminals on the ignition module ?

Thanks. Tucker.


Sure,Use the"diode check" function both directions on every possible combination of connections.(3 connections=6 tests)

Make sure there are no opens or shorts.
Compare to a known good one if necessary.
An unwanted open is the normal fault found.

A more thorough test can be conducted by powering up the module and coil on the bench and simulating the collasping magnetic field normally supplied by the rotating reluctor by holding a soldering iron close to the module.I haven`t tried this one yet.

#5 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 16 January 2011 - 11:27 AM

You don't have to check the module directly - verify power to the coil, and coil resisitance. If you get no pulse from the negative side of the coil with a test light while cranking - you have a bad module. Pretty much as simple as that.

A bad module could spark intermittantly, or it could cut out with temperature (I've seen this a couple times). At any rate when the engine stops running - do the pulse test. If you have a steady pulse and a hot spark while cranking - chances are that your timing is off or your problem is not ignition.

GD

Edited by GeneralDisorder, 16 January 2011 - 11:29 AM.


#6 naru

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Posted 16 January 2011 - 11:27 AM

Is it possible for a faulty module to still a throw a spark to the plugs ? or would it be a no spark situation at the plugs?

thanks


Sometimes

#7 tucka786

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Posted 16 January 2011 - 01:18 PM

Have tested the coil negative while cranking and the test light shows very weak pulse flicker . The test light flickers very dim and not bright ? Should the test light be bright and clearly flicker on and off while cranking ?

Thanks

#8 naru

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Posted 16 January 2011 - 01:26 PM

If you have spark,you are golden.

#9 tucka786

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Posted 16 January 2011 - 01:33 PM

copy post

#10 tucka786

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Posted 16 January 2011 - 02:32 PM

Thanks for the replies. I have a spark but the engine does not fire. I replaced the coil as I thought I might be getting a weak spark during compression . What is the function of the ignition module ? And what are the symptoms of a failed iginition module ?
Thanks

#11 naru

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Posted 16 January 2011 - 02:42 PM

It provides an intermittent ground connection to the coil.

No spark.

Pull the plugs.They are probably wet w/fuel by now.

#12 pksjeep

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Posted 22 January 2011 - 08:38 PM

It looks like you have done all the fundamental checks.

If you haven't tuned the car up in a while your spark plugs could be shot. Sometimes they fire great outside the engine, but under the compression they don't fire properly.

Hope this solves you problem
Paul

Edited by pksjeep, 22 January 2011 - 09:08 PM.


#13 Cougar

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Posted 23 January 2011 - 12:55 PM

In post #3 you stated all the things needed to fire the engine are there. Is there any way the positions of the plug wires could have changed on the disty? If that is good then try spraying starter fluid into the intake and see if that gets the engine going. If those things don't help then the weak flash of the light on the coil may mean the crank angle sensor in the disty is faulty.




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