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Crank but will not start
Posted 23 January 2011 - 12:18 AM
Posted 23 January 2011 - 12:44 AM
The simplest things first. Check all the fuses, in the main fuse box under the hood as well as under the dash.
Posted 23 January 2011 - 01:40 AM
Posted 23 January 2011 - 08:36 AM
Posted 23 January 2011 - 09:14 AM
Posted 23 January 2011 - 11:09 AM
Posted 23 January 2011 - 11:58 AM
Did you check the voltage on the yellow wire going to the coil as I stated in my earlier post? If battery voltage isn't getting to that point there isn't much use in checking other areas for trouble.
Posted 23 January 2011 - 03:26 PM
Posted 23 January 2011 - 03:41 PM
Have you verified there is 12V reaching the coil?
Posted 23 January 2011 - 04:25 PM
Posted 23 January 2011 - 05:21 PM
Posted 23 January 2011 - 05:51 PM
:DI have a test light and a digital multimeter. Please describe how I would check for the 12 volts from the battery to this yellow cable and where is this cable located. Is it the small three pin cable that plugs into the ignition coil cable? So I need to have the ignition on but not trying to crank it. I checked fuse #16 (ignition) and it was in good condition.
Unplug the wire harness connector at the coil. Turn the ignition to ON and probe the pin on the yellow wire for 12V with your multimeter. Ground the meter to one of the mounting screws for the coil.
If you have 12V you can move on to the CPS.
It looks like you can check the CPS with a digital meter set to AC volts. Probe the pins on the sensor while cranking the engine and look for voltage to bounce around under the 2.0v range. You should have 0.1v minimum. If you get nothing that way use an analog meter and try to get a reading. If still nothing the sensor is bad, or the reluctor ring on the crankshaft is damaged or covered in metal shavings.
edit: This link my be of some help. http://www.main.expe...u_manual_scans/
Has the FSM for 90-94 Legacy.
Edited by Fairtax4me, 23 January 2011 - 05:57 PM.
Posted 23 January 2011 - 08:01 PM
Posted 23 January 2011 - 08:10 PM
Posted 23 January 2011 - 08:37 PM
I don't think you can test the ignitor. But the FSM mentions you can check for voltage variation at the Ignitor connector Pins 1 & 2 (the two closest to the Firewall) while cranking.
I did the reading and I got a 11.74 voltage from the yellow or middle pin on the cable from the battery. The two end pins gave no reading. How can I tell if the igniter is bad? I got it from the salvage yard.
Posted 24 January 2011 - 04:58 AM
Info only: My car has over 234000 miles and the timing belt was replaced last year.
Posted 24 January 2011 - 07:41 AM
To test pulse at an injector you unplug one injector ( it doesn't matter which one) and use a test light touch the pointy end to one of the wires and the alligator clip + a small wire to the other.
have some one crank the car and the test light should pulse. if not you have bad wiring or a bad crank sensor or worst case a bad computer ( the computer is what grounds the coil and fule injectors to get them to fire)
Posted 24 January 2011 - 11:39 AM
There is a way to read the code errors directly from the ECU. Here is a link that should help you do that.
Edited by Cougar, 24 January 2011 - 12:03 PM.
Posted 24 January 2011 - 05:24 PM
Posted 25 January 2011 - 07:58 PM
Posted 25 January 2011 - 08:40 PM
Posted 27 January 2011 - 07:05 PM
Posted 27 January 2011 - 07:54 PM
you need to do it the way it is called for. if you did not see the connectors , green and black, you were looking in the wrong area under the dash.
i think josh, legacy777 (?? i can't remember if this is correct, please help) has a picture.
look under the dash again, mine are in between the steering column and the center console.
this may help: http://www.ultimates...reen connector*
Edited by johnceggleston, 27 January 2011 - 07:59 PM.
Posted 27 January 2011 - 08:50 PM
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