eqvance Posted March 1, 2004 Share Posted March 1, 2004 replacing u-joint on upper front drive shaft. if i take driveshaft loose from the hub will the shaft just pull out? 1986 gl wagon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted March 1, 2004 Share Posted March 1, 2004 Eq if you mean the front drive axle please read this post. drive axle removal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DishMan Posted March 6, 2004 Share Posted March 6, 2004 Please excuse my ignorance, but I would also like some enlightenment on axle removal. I read the post by 'edrach' but still have some questions. As far as I can tell, removing the hub from the axle does not leave you with a free axle. The Haynes manual for my 87 GL HB states that you can remove the axle *with* the steering knuckle, but that you need special tools to remove the knuckle from the axle. The way it was described in the post made it sound like you could take the axle off without removing the steering knuckle . What am I missing? So far I have removed the hub (with a hub puller) and the pin from the axle. I could remove the axle from the stub axle with the lower arm free (the above-mentioned post says to remove the pivot bolt from the arm, but which end?). What do I do next?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeEyedBandit Posted March 6, 2004 Share Posted March 6, 2004 On the lower ball joint right above the A-Arm there is a 14mm bolt, take it all the way out and then you should be able knock the A-Arm down so everything is being supported by the strut. Now you should be able to take the inner DOJ off the stub and knock the axle out of the hub and steering knouckle. Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted March 6, 2004 Share Posted March 6, 2004 I think perhaps you are confused.. you don't need any special tools to get the axle out.. unless you consider a BFH a special tool.. Drive out the axle pin from the DOJ side of the axle. undo the outer tie rod end (17mm I think) pull the inner bolt on the lower control arm . Sometimes you have to pull the sway bar end too, but I haven't had to do that every time... then grab the whole thing (with hub still attached) and pull.. you should be able to pull the axle from the out of the tranny. Then take your BFH and a piece of wood and persuade the axle out of the hub. Edit.. three eyed bandit beat me to it.. and with fewer words.. leave it to me to talk too much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DishMan Posted March 6, 2004 Share Posted March 6, 2004 One more embarassing question -- what's the DOJ ? (I can guess what the BFH is!!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted March 6, 2004 Share Posted March 6, 2004 The innermost of the 2 joints on an axle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeEyedBandit Posted March 6, 2004 Share Posted March 6, 2004 It is the inner CV joint. DOJ = Double Offset Joint Beat me to it this time Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted March 6, 2004 Share Posted March 6, 2004 After removing the axle nut, tire/rim, I drive the pin out, then remove the pinch-bolt from the knuckle where the lower ball-joint is. Now, using hammer of choice, and a block of wood, (I use a block of aluminum), drive axle towards the center of car, it won't go in far, but willl release some of the hold that the bearings have on it. Now, turn the steering wheel towards the side that you are working on. This will give you more room to swing the knuckle out. Now, wedge a screw driver into the slot to help release the ball-joint, using a pry bar of choice, (mines a broken shovel handle), lay prybar across the reaction rod that is bolted to the control arm, and put the end of it under the engine support right about where the E-brake cable is attached to it. Press down on pry bar, freeing knuckle from ball-joint, swing knuckle out to remove axle from tranny stub. You can now drive the axle out of the knuckle the rest of the way, straighten wheel out if you need to. You will probally need a long prift punch to drive it all the way out. Only one bolt to remove this way, and less chance of damaging the tie-rod end. No offense to anyone that removes tie-rod end. I put the new axle on tranny stub first, (pay attention to the proper alignment of the pin hole here), then swing knuckle out to install axle into knuckle. Will work either way, you can put axle into knuckle first ifin you want to. Axle will probally not come thru knuckle far enough to get the washers and nut on at this time. So just use the nut itself to draw it in far enough to get the washers on it. May even have to give the knuckle a few mule kicks to start nut onto axle. Axle nut torque is 145 ftlb's, but really way tight is what you want. Last axle I changed stated 170 ftlb's for the nut. Would suggest rechecking the torque after driving around for a few days. I talk more than the rest of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.