Jump to content

Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!

Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.

We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
  • Say hello and join the conversation
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get automatic updates
  • Get your own profile and make new friends
  • Classifieds with all sorts of Subaru goodies
  • Photo hosting in our gallery
  • Meet other cool people with cool cars
Seriously, what are you waiting for? Make your life more fulfilling and join today! You and your Subaru won't regret it, we guarantee** it.

* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!

Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!

Guest Message by DevFuse

- - - - -

Timing belt idler bearing diagnosis EJ22

  • Please log in to reply
57 replies to this topic

#51 Redhat


    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 66 posts
  • Hartford

Posted 09 February 2011 - 07:37 AM

10-4. Sorry to make you explain it ten times. Will be back with report.

#52 SchwarzeEwigkt


    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 148 posts
  • Rochester, NY

Posted 10 February 2011 - 11:09 AM

I don't know if this would work on Subaru balancers or not but I keep a few old serpentine belts around for use as a strap wrench. Wind the belt around the grooves on the pulley 2 or 3 turns (the belt will fold over on itself - use an old belt) and hook it around the nearest thing that will hold it. Reverse to install. Sorry if I am way off base here. Obviously be careful of 2 part balancers so you don't twist the outer ring.

I did this too with a chain-wrench when I did my timing belt. Worked like a charm.

#53 ericcroll


    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 60 posts
  • Hazleton, PA

Posted 10 February 2011 - 12:24 PM

Do any of you know if this is a job (timing belt kit) that can be done on the road (I don't really want to tow the car 150 miles to my garage)? Does the radiator have to be pulled? The crank pulley?


#54 davebugs


    I don't "friend"

  • Members
  • 3,123 posts
  • Pittsburgh suburbs (NE)

Posted 10 February 2011 - 12:32 PM

rad fans. Rad can stay in

#55 johnceggleston


    Lite Master of the Subaru

  • Members
  • 6,712 posts
  • Virginia

Posted 10 February 2011 - 03:53 PM

if i were on the road, i would probably buy the kit and fix the broken parts on the road. drive it home and then do everything, seals included,the right way.

you probably have a bad idler maybe a bad water pump, buy the ebay kit and read up on the job. maybe print out some of the better descriptions and have at it.

the challenge will be if you get out there and don't have a tool you need.

drive it home and then go back and do it right.

#56 jefrino


    New User

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 2 posts
  • Bibsee, AZ

Posted 24 August 2012 - 03:02 PM

the flex plate bolts usually. there isn't a lot of room in there and there are 4 flex plate to torque converter bolts. the screw driver should catch on the bolt or the contours of the flex plate at the bolt.

the ej22 flex plate has a smaller diameter than the ej25 but you should still be able to find a ''catch''. any catch will do. see below and find a ''catch''. this pic even shows a screwdriver in the hole.

(thanks, google images)

Posted Image

how to remove a bent screwdriver in flywheel access hole?

I used the "jam the flywheel method" to get the crank pulley off by inserting a metal rod into the flywheel access hole. The engine was later started up while the rod was still in the flywheel access hole (resulting in a loud scraping noise while the engine was running), and now that rod is bent and will not come out of the access hole. Is there any way to get that bent rod back out of the access hole?

#57 davebugs


    I don't "friend"

  • Members
  • 3,123 posts
  • Pittsburgh suburbs (NE)

Posted 24 August 2012 - 03:47 PM

I nominate that for the FUBAR award.

Really sucks.

No good thoughts.

Only current thought is to pull eng/trans together.

Could try and cutoff rod and jhope that when it falls in that you can spin the flexplate and get all 4 bolts out. Or that it'll fall out the bottom where that stupid cover plate is supposed to go. But it it jambs you're screwed.

If you end up needing a flexplate I have some.

#58 jefrino


    New User

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 2 posts
  • Bibsee, AZ

Posted 24 August 2012 - 05:34 PM

A neighbor suggested that I drill out the flywheel access hole (by drilling below the existing hole) in order to make the hole larger and oblong as a means of pulling the bent metal rod back out.

Can anyone think of any downside into drilling into the flywheel housing (which obviously contains no fluids) to make the access hole larger?

(From the photo displayed above, it appears that drilling just ABOVE the access hole would not work out at all well.)

Edited by jefrino, 04 September 2012 - 10:06 AM.

0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users