Goatboy Posted March 2, 2004 Share Posted March 2, 2004 I am working on a volunteer basis for a friend in need. The car is an 89 GL Sedan 4x4 with SPFI and auto tranny. 145k on the clock. I pulled the codes from the ECU and got 11,13,24,34,35 I know what they all are but don't know how accurate they are. 11 and 13 especially. The crank angle sensor. If that was out wouldn't the car run like crap? It runs great at 20 BTDC Great power. Does 80+ on the freeway. No smoke. If it is bad where is it located? In the Distributor or on the block somewhere? Also the air control valve code 24. Where is the air control at on this car? can that as well as the EGR and Puge be cleaned or must they be replaced? What is the likeliness of finding a good one in the PnP yard?? Thanks for all your help USMB! --GoatBoy-- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rallyruss Posted March 2, 2004 Share Posted March 2, 2004 so wait you have all those codes and the car runs fine? somtingwong here. the crank angle sensor is in the disty. the air control valve is by the TBI unit. check your referance voltages(5v) and grounds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 2, 2004 Share Posted March 2, 2004 Just an FYI - double check your codes with another chart..... I know there's some online somewhere - or maybe someone can look these up in the FSM. The haynes manuals and the chiltons seem to be wrong in many cases. One chart I had told me that my model code was a bad ignition module.... GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goatboy Posted March 2, 2004 Author Share Posted March 2, 2004 I got the codes from several different places and they are all the same. I'm wondering if my process for pulling codes maybe in accurate. I am going to try and clear the codes and then drive it and re-read the codes. --GoatBoy-- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goatboy Posted March 2, 2004 Author Share Posted March 2, 2004 And yes russ it not only runs it runs pretty good too! --GoatBoy-- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goatboy Posted March 2, 2004 Author Share Posted March 2, 2004 Anyone know if the crank angle sensor is replaceable or do you have to swap the whole disty?? --GoatBoy-- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rallyruss Posted March 2, 2004 Share Posted March 2, 2004 it is replacable. expensive too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. RX Posted March 2, 2004 Share Posted March 2, 2004 I hate to tell you this, but there is no crank angle sensor on a 89 GL, that is an EA82 engine and it didn't have a crank angle sensor. As far as I know Subaru didn't have crank angle sensor on any engine until 1990, and then only the EJ series (4 cylinders) and EG series (six cylinders) engines. Sounds like you are not using a Factory Service Manual, but some aftermarket manual that covers many years and many engines, but doesn't separate out the code per engine type. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goatboy Posted March 2, 2004 Author Share Posted March 2, 2004 1989 FSM list trouble code 11 and 13 as Crank Angle Sensor --GoatBoy-- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted March 2, 2004 Share Posted March 2, 2004 Ah Doc, could you be refering to a cam angle senor. As far as I have been told all hotwire MAF'd engines have one. MPFI /turbo and SPFI Goatboy, good call on erase and retest, some of those codes can be falsely set when the engine stalls unexpectantly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goatboy Posted March 2, 2004 Author Share Posted March 2, 2004 Alos does anyone know if I am actually getting 11 and 13 trouble codes if the thing would run? I would think that if I was getting two trouble codes pointing at the CAS that it would not run and not well if it did. But it does run good. any ideas? --GoatBoy-- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goatboy Posted March 2, 2004 Author Share Posted March 2, 2004 Originally posted by Skip Ah Doc, could you be refering to a cam angle senor. Goatboy, good call on erase and retest, some of those codes can be falsely set when the engine stalls unexpectantly I haven't tried htis as of yet. I will when I get off work in about 30 minutes. This car has to make an attempt to pass DEQ in the next day or so. I need to get these codes gone. Getting 24, 34 and 35 as well but it seems to me it is falsly giving codes. Thing runs great. --GoatBoy-- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted March 2, 2004 Share Posted March 2, 2004 GB, the 25 could be a ghost code if it has stalled 34, 35 are the control soleniods, you can test them with an ohmeter, ~ 35 ohms Follow the rubber line from the devises and they will lead you to the solenoids. Note: they are very prone to failure. Some break the wires right at the coil. Boneyard or marketplace - the stealership will have at yer first born Hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goatboy Posted March 2, 2004 Author Share Posted March 2, 2004 What do you think about the 11 and 13 codes? --GoatBoy-- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted March 2, 2004 Share Posted March 2, 2004 same as 24, reset the ECU memory as the instructions show, removing the battery cable will NOT do it hope this helps, your welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Partsman Posted March 3, 2004 Share Posted March 3, 2004 Here - have (most) of a 1989 FSM: http://www.finleyweb.net/docs/SubaruEA82-ServiceManualPart1.pdf http://www.finleyweb.net/docs/SubaruEA82-ServiceManualPart2.pdf My symptoms with a code 24 were that it would not idle when cold and died when decelerating occasionally. My code 34 doesn't seem to do much other than (I think) lower my mileage. Reset and see what pops back up! Diagnostic tree is in section 2-7 of FSM, methinks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rallyruss Posted March 3, 2004 Share Posted March 3, 2004 I will back you up goatboy. what they call the crank angle sensor on the diagrams and info I have off alldata (who just scans the factory diagrams I believe) calles the pick up or cam sensor in the disty the crank angle sensor. and thats what it is kinda in a back arse way. I know DocRX its a stupid technicality. I love OBDII cars all the names are standardized ( mostly). as for your codes skip is on track. I would be looking for an intermitant failure. when you friend asked you to check it out was the check engine light the onle reason? were there other concerns? did someone else work on it before you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goatboy Posted March 3, 2004 Author Share Posted March 3, 2004 No. She bought the car a few days ago as a suprise for her widowed mother. It needed an axle in the front, oil change tune up that sort of thing. I did all that but the engine light is on. Needs to pass emissions as the tags on it are for 2001. It has sat for a couple of years. I tested the EGR and Purge with an ohm meter but I am nit sure if my meter was correct for the job. I got a reading of 3.2 or so. folllows by a small m. Its about he same reading as open air. I am assuming that the circiut is open. Going to scrap yard tomorrow to find some replacements if possible. The other codes only appeard in the read memory check. In the U-check I only got 34 and 35. --GoatBoy-- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goatboy Posted March 3, 2004 Author Share Posted March 3, 2004 Heading to the scrap yard today. My understanding is that if I pull either an EGR or a Purge Solenoid that is good I can swap the parts as long as I clip and re-wire the plug for the right job. So if I find two EGRs I can make one a purge by swapping the plug on it. Right? Also my Multi-meter is a Fluke model and has only one setting for Ohm. Just Ohm. Open air, just holding the test probes not touching anything I get a reading of almost 4 and its followed by a little "M" What does that M stand for? If pinch the probes between my fingers in opposite hands it gets a 0 "L" What does the L stand for? I'm assuming that the 0 reading is a closed circuit. --GoatBoy-- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soobadooba Posted March 3, 2004 Share Posted March 3, 2004 I don't know what model fluke you have, but mine (Fluke87) reads "OL" when held up to air...basically open circuit. It should read at or near zero when the probes are touched together (yes, closed circuit.) Your reading of 4M means four megaohms (which is high resistance) is something I haven't seen before in a working meter but will probably do for this application. When you touch the probes to the terminals of the solenoid, you should see in the neighborhood of 35 ohms- no "M" or "K"should be seen next to the ohms symbol. Hope this helps. -Louis- '91 Loyale 4wd 5spd Wagon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goatboy Posted March 3, 2004 Author Share Posted March 3, 2004 Possibly something is wrong with my Fluke Meter. Dratz --GoatBoy-- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goatboy Posted March 3, 2004 Author Share Posted March 3, 2004 Just ran out to my car and got my Multimeter. Its a Fluke 73. When I touch the probes together it flahses 0L If I hold them apart I get 3.5 M I Just changed the battery in the thing do I have to calibrate it at all? --GoatBoy-- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soobadooba Posted March 3, 2004 Share Posted March 3, 2004 Hmm... those numbers sound kinda screwy to me... calibration shouldn't be affected that much by changing the battery. Don't suppose you have access to another meter. Even the cheap radio shack ones will do for this application. -Louis- '91 Loyale 4wd 5spd Wagon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goatboy Posted March 3, 2004 Author Share Posted March 3, 2004 Hmmm. If I turn it on and have not touched the probes together I get a 3.5 Mega Ohm. If Touch them I get a 0 reading and then after touching them I pull them apart and still maintain the 0L reading. My brain hurts! --GoatBoy-- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goatboy Posted March 3, 2004 Author Share Posted March 3, 2004 What happens if the EGR Solenoid measures at 39 ohms? Is that considered bad? I had read that it needed to test below 32 --GoatBoy-- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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