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stubborn flex-plate bolts... HELP


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29 replies to this topic

#1 Dj7291993

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Posted 23 February 2011 - 09:51 PM

Ok, so I have all but 2 of the flex plate bolts off my car. But these last 2 won't come off, even with wd-40 and an electric impact. I've also tried a breaker bar and a 6 point, but it keeps trying to slip. Any recommendations on how to get it off? I'm gonna try to pick up some liquid wrench, see if that helps. Please help me.

Solution: NOTE: This method will mean you need new bolts. Also, mine were almost completely rounded. After using bars, impacts (electric, air, and mechanical), liquid wrench, and a snap on socket. I also killed 1 impact and 3 sockets. The final solution was a 15 dollar part from sears. It is called Bolt-out. Here is the link. Just pound it on the bolt, put a good 1/2" bar on it, and have someone hold the pivot point while you turn it. Once they break loose, you can take them out by hand.

Edited by Dj7291993, 27 February 2011 - 01:58 AM.
Solution


#2 nipper

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Posted 23 February 2011 - 10:17 PM

WD 40 is not what you want. You want some liquid wrench, and let it soak, then re apply, then soak, then try.

#3 davebugs

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Posted 23 February 2011 - 11:22 PM

I forget 12mm? 6 point. Some have an offset box end wrench that works. I use a Snap-on or Gearwrench "rotohead" ratchet with a cheater bar. Just watch you don't hit yourself in the head when they break loose.

I've seen folks lift the engine a bit and take them out the bottom after removing that annoying plate. But I always do the top method.

#4 monstaru

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Posted 23 February 2011 - 11:40 PM

the persuader.period.cheers, b:)

#5 Numbchux

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Posted 23 February 2011 - 11:51 PM

agreed that WD is not what you need. Liquid wrench would be a bit better, PB blaster would be great, SeaFoam Deep Creep would be ideal.

#6 davebugs

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Posted 24 February 2011 - 12:09 AM

In my opinion it's not rust that's the issue. These bolts are "flat headed" and tighten quickly when the bolt is almost the whole way in they become "suddenly tight".

Also any lube there in the long run I would think would be bad.

A trick I use to make reassembly easier (make sure you read here about making sure the TC in completely seated before engine install) is this.

I take a paint stick and draw a line from each of the 4 TC bolt holes towards the center of the TC. This way when I'm trying to find the first bolt hole it's easier to spin the engine to get the first bolt aligned because you can see the line through the flex plate. Makes that first bolt a much quicker process.

#7 Dj7291993

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Posted 24 February 2011 - 07:19 PM

I actually don't need to put the flex plate back, as I'm swapping in a manual. The flywheel at the junkyard came of with just an 18' bar, but these won't budge. I put some liquid wrench on last night, and more today, but they are still stuck. I could try a longer bar, but it keeps trying to slip. I might try that seafoam stuff though.

Any other suggestions would be great, as I'm hoping to put the "new" one in tomorrow.

#8 davebugs

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Posted 24 February 2011 - 10:16 PM

If you round them it's gonna get more difficult.

Was it setting outside uncovered?

You wanna try getting them from the bottom?

#9 ruparts

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Posted 24 February 2011 - 10:37 PM

hi,
the deal is you need a real impact wrench -- a quality 1/2" air impact , maybe borrow one , and good 6 point socket

#10 davebugs

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Posted 24 February 2011 - 10:45 PM

hi,
the deal is you need a real impact wrench -- a quality 1/2" air impact , maybe borrow one , and good 6 point socket


You ever done this?

How do you get it to fit in there?

Or do you have the impact up by the PS pump with a loing extension?

Because I've considered it but couldn't get it to "fit" with my tools.

#11 MilesFox

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Posted 25 February 2011 - 12:07 AM

i use offset box wrenches. if you remove the pitch stopper and its mount, you can get at it with a 3/8 ratchet and a deep socket. be care ful not to round the bolt and have a good 6 side socket with a ratchet, as the heads on the bolts are short, and you want the tool on squarely. I use a pipe on my ratchet, or slip a box wrench over the end of it for leverage if necesary.

#12 Dj7291993

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Posted 25 February 2011 - 12:43 AM

no, it was not outside. However, the person that serviced the car before I got it was not into torquing. I twisted the head on my oil fill plug trying to get it off. :banghead:

I'm sure I could borrow one, but it is in my garage, and I don't have a compressor.

I probably should note that I have plenty of room, as the tranny is out, and the car is jacked up. I might just need to get some offset box wrenches. I'm really starting to worry that I'm gonna kill the bolts. :eek:

I just can't seem to get a good grip on the bolt, and leverage on the bar at the same time. Also, if one does end up rounding, what would be left, cuz I think one of them is close?

#13 markjw

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Posted 25 February 2011 - 01:01 AM

Do you have enough room to get a tool like this in there? This is just a 4 1/2" grinder with a cutting wheel on it. I can cut stubborn bolts in seconds with this thing.

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#14 lostinthe202

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Posted 25 February 2011 - 01:25 AM

I had a stubborn one like that on a Forester auto trans I pulled last year. The head was already rounded a bit and everything I tried just wouldn't get a good seat on it like you're describing. I ended up pulling the intake (actually just removing the 8 bolts and propping it up with a piece of wood) which lets you get a real straight shot at head with some extensions. loosening the intake isn't that big of a deal really, 8 bolts and you can leave everything hooked up and just lift the passenger's side up a few inches. I didn't replace the gaskets as they came off clean and didn't look bad, but I don't really know if that's acceptable to those who are more experienced with such things.

Good luck!

Will-

#15 ruparts

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Posted 25 February 2011 - 09:22 AM

You ever done this?

How do you get it to fit in there?

Or do you have the impact up by the PS pump with a loing extension?

Because I've considered it but couldn't get it to "fit" with my tools.


hi,
my apology, i was thinking you were having the problem with the flexplate bolts that hold it to the crankshaft, and that you had the transmission , or engine , out of the car.
since you are talking about the outer edge ones , you could apply heat from a torch and they will loosen up . the hardest thing for me has been to hold the crank from turning while wrenching on the bolt.

#16 davebugs

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Posted 25 February 2011 - 10:08 AM

hi,
my apology, i was thinking you were having the problem with the flexplate bolts that hold it to the crankshaft, and that you had the transmission , or engine , out of the car.
since you are talking about the outer edge ones , you could apply heat from a torch and they will loosen up . the hardest thing for me has been to hold the crank from turning while wrenching on the bolt.


Socket on the crank bolt and breaker bar stops the crank from turning. Or a harmonic balancer tool.

Wondered what I had missed at getting those bolts out. Thanks for getting back.

#17 Dj7291993

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Posted 25 February 2011 - 02:02 PM

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These bolts. I don't know if I could fit a cutting tool or not, but it seems like a bad idea to have studs in the engine.

#18 markjw

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Posted 25 February 2011 - 02:07 PM

Yeah..Studs in the engine are not good. I was thinking you were messing with the outer flex plate to TQ bolts.

Like the guys above are saying, you need air impact with a quality 6 point socket.

#19 ruparts

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Posted 25 February 2011 - 02:30 PM

no, it was not outside. However, the person that serviced the car before I got it was not into torquing. I twisted the head on my oil fill plug trying to get it off. :banghead:

I'm sure I could borrow one, but it is in my garage, and I don't have a compressor.

I probably should note that I have plenty of room, as the tranny is out, and the car is jacked up. I might just need to get some offset box wrenches. I'm really starting to worry that I'm gonna kill the bolts. :eek:

I just can't seem to get a good grip on the bolt, and leverage on the bar at the same time. Also, if one does end up rounding, what would be left, cuz I think one of them is close?


hi, sorry, i posted wrong but i really doubt you will be able to turn them with any wrench,, Maybe a 24"-30" 1/2 inch breaker bar and 6pt socket, if an extension is needed be extra sure to keep it lined up straight or you'll just round off the bolt heads,, the best thing is to arrange for a good 1/2" impact and 6pt socket, however you can, rent or borrow.

#20 davebugs

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Posted 25 February 2011 - 02:39 PM

I've bene thinking the 4 TC bolts as well.

Impact gun. No doubt about it.

#21 Dj7291993

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Posted 25 February 2011 - 03:11 PM

No prob guys. Guess I should've been more specific. I did find a gun to borrow, and a friend is bringing an air compressor. I'm not sure the torque ratings on the gun, but hopefully it is more than the electric.

#22 Dj7291993

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Posted 25 February 2011 - 05:24 PM

nevermind. Impact broke. I think one of the bolts is just shy of completely rounded though. If it rounds, is there anything I can do about it?

#23 raven1835

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Posted 25 February 2011 - 08:27 PM

3 ways come to mind.1 they make special sockets for stripped/rounded bolts. 2 using a big chisel and hammer, hitting the bolt at an angle in the direction to loosen it. 3 find a friend with a portable mig welder and weld a bigger nut over it then it will usually come out pretty easily. getting it as hot as possible with a torch will also help. all of these are expecting to replace the bolts as they will be ruined.

#24 naru

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Posted 25 February 2011 - 08:41 PM

nevermind. Impact broke. I think one of the bolts is just shy of completely rounded though. If it rounds, is there anything I can do about it?


Air chisel or hand chisel.
Grinder or cutting wheel
Cutting torch

I would probably drill the heads off if the chisel doesn`t loosen them.
Should be enough shank left to grab w/visegrips once the flex plate is off.

#25 MilesFox

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Posted 25 February 2011 - 09:09 PM

once you cut off the head of the bolt, the torque will be released, and the remaining shank should just turn out by hand




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