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Codes 14, 15, 1988 gl-10 Dead


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This ultimate bell and whistle car has been a nightmare.Codes 14 and 15 flash on the ECU. Abnormal injector output.

MPFI, are all the injectors shot? The book says check harness and connectors.

This car has had an intermittent glitch back when it ran. It acted like a flat spot on the starter.It would always start,just click it for a while.

A few starters later it eventually wouldent start. I tried clicking for an hour one day.It would turn over and idle and rev up,but not drive.

Now it won`t even fire unless it gets a little prime in the intake.

Are there grounds somewhere for the harnesses or could all that clicking fry my injectors? Please help and thanks,Dan.

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sounds like two seperate problems to me.

 

the starter solinoid is the most likely cause of the click and no start. assuming battery connections are all good. dont forget the grounds.

 

as for the squirt to start deal. hmm bad temp sensor? or possible injector problem. hard to tell with ot testing stuff.

 

go here http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142 and look in the second ea82 section pg# 64

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It sounds like your battery wire to the starter may be bad. Possibly internal corrosion. I would check the voltage you are getting to the starter while in the start start position. If you don't have near full battery voltage while the motor is not turning then your wire is bad or the connection to the battery. It could be the ground wire also.

 

Have you checked the injectors for debris that may be clogging them?

 

I would also check the fuseable links for a bad connection. They are in the plastic box that is mounted on the coolant reservoir.

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you probably want to stick to one thread if you want some results here. you now have 3 seprate threads on the same topic all started by you. Its hard for us to help if you keep bouncing around.

 

as for the groud question. there are many grounds. get a flashlight and start looking.

 

there is a big ground near the stater another smaller one near the battery to the eng.

if you understand voltage drop testing (do a search or I can explain it again) that would be the best test method.

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