amr9000 Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 so the car I got was worked on by some wacky mechanic the last guy payed (>.<) and I am needing some help with what to do about the assembly(s) of which he put the wrong one on. he told me that you cannot re-grease the wheel bearings inside the assembly and that it is cheaper to buy a junk yard assembly.. can anyone give me Any info on this, I've been going Crazy... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisbad Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 what kind of subaru? what year? buying another assembly is cheaper than what? what parts were installed incorrectly? the entire hub? and no , you usually cannot grease them. curtis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amr9000 Posted March 13, 2011 Author Share Posted March 13, 2011 96 impreza outback, cheaper than dealing with the.. (I don't know what the piece is called that is the bolts that stick out to hold the wheel) and the race and bearings... and the entire assembly, he just put it on from another car that didn't work with antilock and that part I don't know what's called was out of it.. >.< so what is the best way of dealing with a grindy/dirty/worn bearings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 (edited) Find someone with a hub-tamer or similar and press in a new bearing - about $35. Sounds like a used knuckle was installed that doesn't have the tone-ring setup for the ABS. Sometimes that will happen when you can't find the one you need in a timely manner.... just means the ABS doesn't work which isn't that big of a deal since the early ABS on that '96 is a big pile of crap and probably is better off not meddling with your braking anyway. GD Edited March 13, 2011 by GeneralDisorder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amr9000 Posted March 14, 2011 Author Share Posted March 14, 2011 hhmm well the entire assembly was just... different than all the other assemblies, not just the ring there was no hole in the assembly for the sensor whatsoever however that is an interesting bit of information about the abs on my caar However, the race that the bearing rides on is seemingly worn out also, so I'm trying to think of how much to do myself... maybe press the races out, get new stuffs and have a shop press it back together? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 The bearings and their race(s) come as a set. Buy a bearing and install it - pretty simple. I wouldn't opt for using a press - the hub-tamer type tools are better as they don't put out as much force and potentially deform the bearing pocket in the process. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amr9000 Posted March 16, 2011 Author Share Posted March 16, 2011 so a "bearing" alone includes the races and everything? sorry reelatively new to all the terms.. or at least what they belong to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 16, 2011 Share Posted March 16, 2011 A "race" is part of a bearing - most bearings have inner and outer races in addition to their rolling elements and often a "cage" to hold the rolling elements in the required posistions. With tapered roller bearings you have a "cup" which is the outer race and a "cone" which is the inner race, rolling elements, and cage. You don't replace just portions of these - you replace all components as matched sets. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amr9000 Posted March 16, 2011 Author Share Posted March 16, 2011 got it, thank you gd oh one more thing, about when should I replace the bearings? is there a good time to or just when they go bad? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unibrook Posted March 16, 2011 Share Posted March 16, 2011 Replace them when they go bad. They will howl like a banshee when they need to be replaced. PM me if you want a step by step guide on using a HubTamer to replace the bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted March 16, 2011 Share Posted March 16, 2011 Why not just post the instructions? I think it was in tech tips (Subaru newsletter for technicians), as well as the New England Subaru newsletter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 16, 2011 Share Posted March 16, 2011 got it, thank you gdoh one more thing, about when should I replace the bearings? is there a good time to or just when they go bad? Replace when they go bad. These are not something that you "repack" or "regrease" or change-out on a regular interval. Most of them last the life of the car and were, ostensibly, designed to do so. If one fails you replace just that single bearing and hope you never have to touch the rest. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amr9000 Posted March 17, 2011 Author Share Posted March 17, 2011 nah dun have the money for one wait what about seals..? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike104 Posted March 17, 2011 Share Posted March 17, 2011 Here is a link to an endwrench article that shows the use of the Hub Tamer/Hub Shark type system to remove and install the wheel bearing and wheel hub: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/--Articles--/--Endwrench--/WheelBearing.pdf that is the recommended method rather than using a press that can distort the knuckle (the part the bearing is pressed into). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted March 17, 2011 Share Posted March 17, 2011 Here is a link to an endwrench article that shows the use of the Hub Tamer/Hub Shark type system to remove and install the wheel bearing and wheel hub: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/--Articles--/--Endwrench--/WheelBearing.pdf that is the recommended method rather than using a press that can distort the knuckle (the part the bearing is pressed into). end wrench says it is the new procedure for REAR bearings. is it also acceptable for front bearings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike104 Posted March 17, 2011 Share Posted March 17, 2011 John, I have heard about others using the Harbor Freight FWD wheel bearing tool kit to do the front wheel bearings. I'm not sure if the Kent Moore kit called out in the endwrench article has the right pieces to do the fronts. The HubShark system is marketed towards front wheel bearings and uses the same process as the endwrench article uses: http://www.kentool.com/catalogs/hubshark.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 17, 2011 Share Posted March 17, 2011 end wrench says it is the new procedure for REAR bearings. is it also acceptable for front bearings? Yes. And you don't need a hub-tamer. I have used the "FWD Service Set" from Harbor Frieght, and a simple two-jaw puller to accomplish the same thing for about $80. I do reccomend an impact for removing and installing the outer race. I have a customer with a '91 Legacy that I replaced a front wheel bearing in this fasion. So far 40k on it and no issues. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amr9000 Posted March 17, 2011 Author Share Posted March 17, 2011 well I definitely need a new one for the left side and since I'm going to be getting a junk yard assembly for the right.. I may want them to be even.. this is all good info you guys are all Awesome, I'll check out harbor freight and see if mine has one, it's the front ones that need it anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 17, 2011 Share Posted March 17, 2011 (edited) Front or rear.... doesn't matter. They call it a "FWD Service Set" because almost every other car that is FWD uses some form of bearing setup that allows for a splined shaft that fits into a hub that rides on the bearings..... most of those cars don't have the same type of rear wheel bearings that require this sort of tool. Subaru - being AWD for the most part - does require this same tool on front AND rear wheels. And the set will work for both. But it does require some imagination as it comes without applicable instructions - and it does not have a puller with which to remove the outer bearing cone from the hub once the hub has been removed from the knuckle. That you will have to figure out on your own. I modified a cheap puller to remove it - you could also heat it with a torch till it just falls off, use a shop press..... etc - there are a number of ways but it helps to have experience with bearing/sleeve/shaft/press work. For instructions I pulled up the "hub tamer" instructions for a Subaru and used those as a general guide on how to proceed using the Harbor Frieght version. But as I said you will have to tweak them to fit what you have to work with.... that's where the experience comes into play. I have reservations about telling people to do them this way precisely because most folks don't have the right environment/mindset to make it work. GD Edited March 17, 2011 by GeneralDisorder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted March 18, 2011 Share Posted March 18, 2011 OK, hub-tamer-ites, a question- How many tons of force is a hub tamer capable of applying? I replaced a front bearing on my '03 and my 12T press was just about maxxed-out pressing out the old outer races. If you have a lot of shim stock, old bearings and gears and pipe laying around it's fairly easy to get the knuckle straight in the press and not mess it up, but if you were sloppy I could see how you could put it out-of-round. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amr9000 Posted March 18, 2011 Author Share Posted March 18, 2011 but with a hub tamer don't you have to hammer the bearing back in? a press seems like it'd be a lot cleaner, no? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unibrook Posted March 18, 2011 Share Posted March 18, 2011 OK, hub-tamer-ites, a question- How many tons of force is a hub tamer capable of applying? I replaced a front bearing on my '03 and my 12T press was just about maxxed-out pressing out the old outer races. If you have a lot of shim stock, old bearings and gears and pipe laying around it's fairly easy to get the knuckle straight in the press and not mess it up, but if you were sloppy I could see how you could put it out-of-round. Dave In fact, my rear wheel bearing outer race was so tight, the Hub Tamer could not press it out before it began to deform the knuckle...so I stopped. I rented a slide hammer from AutoZone to yank/pound out the outer race. That was the toughest part of the job. I was SLAMMING that bear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuzpile Posted March 18, 2011 Share Posted March 18, 2011 Guys the info was put here, the links were provided so you get the idea. I believe it was said early that there was no specific recomendation, Yet be assured,....Itand a can be done with pieces of pipe scrap and a puller. The linkto the Ken Tool Shark sys is definitely worth a save. You don't need the whole set nor much of it with the assembly removed already. However, in order to do it ON the vehicle required that surrounding attachment. It's the concept. Like Gd said,sortof you can heat the hell out of things or beat the sxxt out of stuff or you can do it right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuzpile Posted March 18, 2011 Share Posted March 18, 2011 (edited) Insofar the knuckle was off, application of heat would have been perfect. Edited March 18, 2011 by Fuzpile Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 18, 2011 Share Posted March 18, 2011 but with a hub tamer don't you have to hammer the bearing back in? a press seems like it'd be a lot cleaner, no? Hub tamers and the like are designed to apply force via a threaded pusher/puller type arrangment. No hammering is used. Presses are fine but the (correct) setup on a press is more time consuming than leaving the hub attached to the car and using the hub-tamer like tools instead. It's not that the press can extert more pressure - it's that it's harder to set it up right in a press. I have a 20 ton shop press and I would still use the hub-tamer. It's quicker and doesn't have any potential impact on the camber adjustment. And yes - removing the outer race is a beast of a job. Thus why I reccomended using the hub tamer type tools and an impact. It will WRECK your arm trying to work the pusher by hand with a ratchet. Trust me. I drained my 30 gal compressor half a dozen times with my impact getting it out. The new one went in easier but not much. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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