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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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My '92 Loyale: Safariwagon


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735 replies to this topic

#376 bratman18

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Posted 03 June 2012 - 11:12 AM

I have seen these pegged out when used in a Subaru. You can go a bit further with them than you can an suv or truck!

#377 987687

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Posted 03 June 2012 - 11:13 AM

What kinds of vehicles do those come in? I WANT ONE!!!

#378 xbeerd

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Posted 03 June 2012 - 12:33 PM

Said he got it from an old Tercel. was it the sr5 or all trac or something i would guess.

#379 TheLoyale

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Posted 03 June 2012 - 02:25 PM

Indeed, 80s 4-Runner had these as well, but are rare, much like the Tercel one. Which is why they are $150+ on ebay. I got this one for a great deal though.

If you want to blow $250, find the JDM overhead unit for an FJ80, this has Altimeter in it and compass iirc! Again, another rear item that costs.

Also, 80s Mitsubishi Pajero/Dodge Raider has an Inclinometer with Clock. But is a POS, the plastic gimbles shatter because its 25yr old plastic. The Toyota unit is much nicer, liquid filled I think, very smooth.

Edited by TheLoyale, 03 June 2012 - 02:31 PM.


#380 jasonkaye

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Posted 03 June 2012 - 04:41 PM

Hello. I have a 1990 Loyale wagon, with a young engine (just passed 100,000 miles). I love the car, but like all the rest, she's rusting out pretty good and won't pass inspection. I'm not giving up on her though, and I've talked with some mechanics and body shop guys who have given me some tips on fixing her up. I've never done body work before, but this whole post on the Safariwagon is making me really hopeful that I can keep this car for some years to come. The areas I'm going to try to fix are: both front fenders where the mudflaps are barely hanging on, one hole in the rear wheel well, and holes on the underside of the back end leading up into the trunk area.

If it's OK, here is the process I'm going to follow, and I'd love to get feedback and tips from you and the community here:

1. Remove the rust and loose metal from the affected areas.
2. Cut/bend sheet metal and attach it with rivets to rebuild/cover the holes.
3. Apply Tiger Hair fiberglass filler.
4. Prime and paint.

Additionally, is it possible to find an exact (or similar) paint match to the original light blue color?

Thanks for any information and help provided!

- Jason

#381 TheLoyale

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Posted 03 June 2012 - 07:17 PM

Thanks for posting about your car! Sounds like its still pretty intact and very able to be saved. You seem to have a pretty good picture of how to address the rusted areas. If you do have access to a welder (Just a plain old wirefeed arc welder) that would also make things easier. But rivets and sheet metal is a good way to fix small areas.

You will want to find some 18ga metal sheets, Standard weldable steel, or even stainless, which will be a little more costly, but won't rust again in that area :)

Fiberglass sheets and resin are a good way to seal it all up, but the Fiberglass won't last long if its only adhering to a smooth surface (Like a Fender or else where on the body) for the wheel wells it would work great because they are rough and the fiberglass has something to bite into.

A good piece of advice is to cut out any of the rust, as it will only come back if you wire-wheel it and then treat it with a rust transformer (I found out the hard way)

As for color matched paint, there should be a silver sticker tag on the driverside strut tower (Under the hood) or on the front of the radiator support where the hood latch is. It will have a Paint code number. If you take that paint number to any Auto paint supply shop, they can match it perfectly. Some can mix it into Areosol cans for easy use on touch-ups.

I am thinking your paint number is either
955 - Bermuda Blue Met.
280 - Ice Blue Met.

I am pretty sure I know the light blue you are talking about, I actually like that color.

Also, you are welcome to ask any questions you might have, here.

Cheers Jason,
-Tom

#382 1982gl4

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Posted 03 June 2012 - 08:40 PM

Hello. I have a 1990 Loyale wagon, with a young engine (just passed 100,000 miles). I love the car, but like all the rest, she's rusting out pretty good and won't pass inspection. I'm not giving up on her though, and I've talked with some mechanics and body shop guys who have given me some tips on fixing her up. I've never done body work before, but this whole post on the Safariwagon is making me really hopeful that I can keep this car for some years to come. The areas I'm going to try to fix are: both front fenders where the mudflaps are barely hanging on, one hole in the rear wheel well, and holes on the underside of the back end leading up into the trunk area.

If it's OK, here is the process I'm going to follow, and I'd love to get feedback and tips from you and the community here:

1. Remove the rust and loose metal from the affected areas.
2. Cut/bend sheet metal and attach it with rivets to rebuild/cover the holes.
3. Apply Tiger Hair fiberglass filler.
4. Prime and paint.

Additionally, is it possible to find an exact (or similar) paint match to the original light blue color?

Thanks for any information and help provided!

- Jason


Another Vermonter :grin: I'm located in the Montpelier area.

I won't clog up Tom's thread too much with this. You should start your own build thread so we can follow along there!

Federated Auto can mix up pain here locally, there are a few other places that do it as well. I may have a couple doors, and a fender around for an ea82 as well along with a good hatch and few other odds and ends.

As Tom said, I would get some 18g metal to work with I just picked up a 3x5ft piece of it from a local parts supplier it never seems to last as long as you need it to!

-Shaun

#383 jasonkaye

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Posted 04 June 2012 - 03:58 PM

Thanks for the responses guys. I've taken Shaun's advice and started a new thread over at http://www.ultimates...d.php?p=1113464. I'll see you guys over there!

#384 TheLoyale

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Posted 04 June 2012 - 09:21 PM

Finished, and finished!

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#385 cmill189

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Posted 10 June 2012 - 08:30 PM

Now you're ready for some serious mall-crawling!

Did you hook up the 4wd light?

#386 Moosen

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Posted 10 June 2012 - 09:36 PM

That is sooooo sick!

#387 TheLoyale

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Posted 10 June 2012 - 09:45 PM

Pics of todays Subaru Show!

I didn't hood up the 4WD light yet, I was planning on it though!

#388 89ChevondaSI

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Posted 11 June 2012 - 10:01 AM

It looks so sick tom! keep it up! :clap:

#389 TheLoyale

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Posted 14 June 2012 - 06:59 PM

Door card fun.
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#390 TheLoyale

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Posted 14 June 2012 - 07:02 PM

Should I also paint the Interior release level and lower gray vinyl black?

#391 bratman18

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Posted 14 June 2012 - 07:02 PM

That looks good!

#392 The Beast I Drive

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Posted 14 June 2012 - 09:35 PM

Should I also paint the Interior release level and lower gray vinyl black?


Yes. And the window switch panels too.

-Bill

#393 TheLoyale

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Posted 14 June 2012 - 10:35 PM

I think I will only paint the Lock switch and lever, I don't want to loose the white print on my window switch. Unless someone has a black case for it?

#394 MilesFox

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Posted 14 June 2012 - 10:53 PM

if you remove the window switch, chances are the plastic bores for the screws will break off on re-assembly. guaranteed.

i think the grey vanyle on the black makes it richer. reminds me of bmw or mercedes.

what would really be dope is a chrome piping around the stitching in outlining the pull handle like a 1985 with black interior.

#395 TheLoyale

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Posted 14 June 2012 - 11:06 PM

I don't think the plastic bores would break, I've taken two of these apart already, including my original one. I just had those dumb rump roast copper rocker switch tabs and the little bearing wheels that fall out, this with is rather over complex for what it is.

Chrome stripping is not a bad idea, although I think chrome would also have to make an appearance else where in the interior to tie to all together. Which is why I totally want to make the lock switch black and possibly the handle, it doesn't seems to flow just yet.

Perhaps I should pull the dash and do it black, Black EA82 dashboard = Rare!

#396 AKghandi

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Posted 15 June 2012 - 02:51 AM

looks awesome! you could just mask off the buttons on the switch... but i would be worried about paint getting in the switch and fouling things up.

but pulling it apart and painting it separate would be pretty easy, just pull the case apart with the buttons pointing up, IIRC that would keep the rockers in place.(i had to put that puzzle back together once....PITA)


i cant wait to see what else you do to it :popcorn:

with everything going black that snorkus will look right at home :-p

#397 l75eya

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Posted 15 June 2012 - 11:50 AM

Wow! Nice improvement! Looks exponentially better. IMO I would leave the lower vinyl gray though.

What kind of paint did you use?

#398 TheLoyale

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Posted 15 June 2012 - 01:33 PM

Dupli-Color Vinyl/Fabric.

#399 l75eya

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Posted 16 June 2012 - 06:48 PM

:headbang:

#400 TheLoyale

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Posted 16 June 2012 - 08:15 PM

Loving the black, I finished the rear door cards. I also painted the rear gate panel all black, it off sets all the gray, and adds a nice feel.

Looking at the interior, and trying to find where else I can tastefully add black, so it all works together. I was thinking of removing the side seat covers (Where the seat belt runs though) and doing that black.
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