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My '92 Loyale: Safariwagon


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#501 TheLoyale

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Posted 12 April 2013 - 06:49 PM

As for Moog Ball joints for the EA82, I can order anything working at o'reilly.

 

The part number is:

 

Line Code:  Part Number:

MOO          K9081

 

They are like $32 under my account.



#502 TheLoyale

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Posted 29 April 2013 - 04:18 PM

Painting the rest of the 4" BOSS lift kit. I am using Mar-Hyde Acid Etching primer with Rust-Olium Professional  Grade Smoke Gray. I am applying it with a brush, so its super thick and durable. It self levels so it looks smooth once it dries.

 

Also got 4 new Monroe Economatic struts (Factory replacements) I am painting them gloss white.



#503 TomRhere

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Posted 29 April 2013 - 05:14 PM

'Bout time you get back on here. Been a day or two... :)



#504 goblewagon

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Posted 29 April 2013 - 10:23 PM

I just got done putting on my BOSS 4'' lift! i painted mine with rustoleum high performance enamel.

keep up the good work :)



#505 TheLoyale

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Posted 08 May 2013 - 11:19 PM

What did you do for the diff mount drop, the one on top of the diff? I was thinking of getting round stock and cutting it to 4 lengths, anyone else..?

 

Did something to the Loyale today before work, swapped to the JDM/EDM corner lights and wired them in with the factory connector (The JDM bulb sockets are different than the USDM) As well as the top mounting point where it meets the headlight bucket - That is something I still need to create.

 

I have 30 days to get this call built up. Will I make it?



#506 The Beast I Drive

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Posted 09 May 2013 - 06:48 PM

What did you do for the diff mount drop, the one on top of the diff? I was thinking of getting round stock and cutting it to 4 lengths, anyone else..?

 

Did something to the Loyale today before work, swapped to the JDM/EDM corner lights and wired them in with the factory connector (The JDM bulb sockets are different than the USDM) As well as the top mounting point where it meets the headlight bucket - That is something I still need to create.

 

I have 30 days to get this call built up. Will I make it?

You don't have to do anything with that mount, the lift kit drops the whole rear crossmember and the diff together.

 

-Bill



#507 TheLoyale

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Posted 09 May 2013 - 09:44 PM

You don't have to do anything with that mount, the lift kit drops the whole rear crossmember and the diff together.

 

-Bill

 

Oh yeah, duh. I dunno what I'm thinking.

Thanks man :)



#508 TheLoyale

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Posted 11 May 2013 - 09:18 PM

Started taking the rear suspension apart today, the only part I am not looking forward to is trying to remove the soft line so I can get a longer one. I just know I'm going to twist off the line nuts!

How long of a brake hose has everyone else gone with on the rear? Part numbers perhaps? Also, what has everyone done about the front lines? I'll just have to look thru brake lines when I go into work tuesday.



#509 turbosubarubrat

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Posted 11 May 2013 - 11:19 PM

a guy i know is using stainless steel ones that he is happy with on his brat. there more expensive but it looks like there well worth it.



#510 goblewagon

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Posted 12 May 2013 - 12:32 AM

i just unhooked my lines from the clips



#511 TheLoyale

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Posted 30 May 2013 - 09:32 PM

The whole lift is pretty much on, need to put in the pass. side strut, extended steering shaft and we're good. Now, I've noticed that the clutch fan hits the lower part of the rad, more so the wire harness. What has everyone done about this? Everyone runs electric fans?

 

 



#512 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 30 May 2013 - 09:56 PM

Yes, as wrote about that on ~► This Thread:

 

 

I Found interesting that No one said on the other Lift Threads, that when you Drop the engine Crossmember (and with that the engine sits Lower on the Engine bay); the Pulley driven fan, found on some EA82's will Hit its surrounding Frame that is mounted on the Radiator!

I Know it is Logical... but it worth be written here because someone could forget about that and Damage the Fan.

Kind Regards.

 

First I ran my "BumbleBeast" without the Surrounding Frame for that Fan, which mounts to the Radiator...

 

Then I Switched to Twin Electrical Fan Setup, as you can Read: ~► Here.

 

Kind Regards.



#513 TheLoyale

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Posted 31 May 2013 - 04:36 PM

JesZek, thanks for the link. Even without the fan shroud on the radiator, the fan may still make contact with the main wire harness. I will have to zip tie it out of the way temporarily until I swap in an electric fan, I will have to read up on your fan swap thread again :)

 

Ideas on the steering shaft anyone? I made it longer, it reaches the rack and the steering column, but the U-joint angle is too extreme and it binds a bit. Is the Outback shaft a direct swap in or?



#514 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 31 May 2013 - 08:44 PM

You're Welcome my Friend.

 

I Read long time ago, that the the Steering Shaft from the Forester is a Direct replacement,

 

But Foresters has two different Lenghts; you shall try the Longer one (I believe from the second gen)

 

Kind Regards.



#515 TheLoyale

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Posted 02 June 2013 - 01:09 PM

I found that the joints only bind on the outer edge, so I am going to shave them a little and that should smooth out the steering. I still don't know what I'm doing to do about radiator hoses. 



#516 bratman18

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Posted 02 June 2013 - 01:49 PM

I found that the joints only bind on the outer edge, so I am going to shave them a little and that should smooth out the steering. I still don't know what I'm doing to do about radiator hoses. 

I think you can get universal flexible hoses that'll work. I'm sure some made for another brand would work. I used a different type on my BRAT when I lifted it, I just can't remember what it was.



#517 TheLoyale

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Posted 02 June 2013 - 04:05 PM

Yeah I managed to get the hoses figured out well enough for now. Now my other problem is not having any spark. I had the car running just a few days ago after I finished the fuel lines. But now, after I lowered the motor, I have no spark. Everything looks good, all the grounds are there, no missed connections or anything, fuse is also good.

 

What am I missing?


Edited by TheLoyale, 02 June 2013 - 04:10 PM.


#518 bratman18

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Posted 02 June 2013 - 04:11 PM

The coil wire connected? The coil is mounted on the body, and the distributor is on the motor, so it's easy for it to pull out from one of the spots, usually the coil.



#519 TheLoyale

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Posted 02 June 2013 - 04:42 PM

Nope everythings connected.

 

I connected the white connecters up by the Brake booster to run the Diagnostic, and the ECU is flashing code 11 and 13 which are both for (Crank Angle Sensor No Reference Pulse) 

 

I have the full paper FSM for 1991 Loyale, so I'm checking that for trouble shooting. I hope my disty isn't crap.



#520 jboymechanic

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Posted 02 June 2013 - 08:24 PM

Check that damn resistor on the coil bracket.  I'll never forget when mine went bad, what a pain to find.  Sounds like your crank or cam sensor might have gone bad or got unplugged.



#521 TomRhere

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Posted 03 June 2013 - 03:44 AM

With Key On-Engine Off, you should have voltage on both sides of the coil.

 

Test light hooked to coil - and battery - should pulse while cranking.



#522 TheLoyale

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Posted 03 June 2013 - 02:57 PM

I got 7.3v outta either side of the coil with Key-ON using a multi-meter. 



#523 TheLoyale

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Posted 03 June 2013 - 03:07 PM

If I stick the light tester on the positive batt terminal and touch the negative coil post I get pulsing light. If I touch the positive post I get nothing.

If I stick the light tester on the negative batt terminal and touch either the pos/neg posts on the coil I get nothing. Is this correct?

 

So this only confirms that the coil and igniter thing are working, so the Disty/Pickup could still be shot. Any easy way to test that? I want to make sure the disty is dead before I drop $108 on a new one.



#524 TheLoyale

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Posted 03 June 2013 - 04:43 PM

New development!! if you turn the key all the way to on, you will hear the fuel pump and some relays click like usual, BUT, after that, the pump will cycle again and relays click again. It seems to keep doing it, almost as if you were turning the key ON and OFF.

Why is this? Whats going to cause this issue? I am guessing these two issues are tied together.



#525 bratman18

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Posted 03 June 2013 - 05:05 PM

Do you still have the diagnostic connectors plugged together?






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