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My '92 Loyale: Safariwagon


TheLoyale
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New development!! if you turn the key all the way to on, you will hear the fuel pump and some relays click like usual, BUT, after that, the pump will cycle again and relays click again. It seems to keep doing it, almost as if you were turning the key ON and OFF.

Why is this? Whats going to cause this issue? I am guessing these two issues are tied together.

 

Low Battery! ... Try Jumping it.

 

Kind Regards.

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So it was not the pickup/Crank Sensor. I'm at a loss.

 

There are only two grounds on the motor, right? One from the trans body and the other is attaches to the lower water pipe (Goes into Waterpump)

 

Before I dropped the motor, it started and ran, now it just cranks.

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Check the fuses if you hadn't. make sure the little nugget hasn't fallen out of the inside of the cap. Check the pigtail on the disty.

 

I would assume that maybe you dropped the steering column. there is a ground wire that goes thru one of the bolts. make sure that is there, and the ecu is mounted properly. MAybe you kncked a connector loose on the ign or fuel relays above the column.

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Fuses were the first thing I checked, then I checked the Coil, I get a volt reading off it and I also get pulsing while cranking if I use a light tester. Everything looks and seems fine, I just do not have any spark at all (I pulled #1 plug and cranked it)

 

I ECU was flashing code 11 and 13 before, but now it just flashes 7 short times and starts over again. That is not a code.

 

Guess I'm going to check the disty pigtail for ohms to make sure there is not a broke wire somewhere in the harness.

 

As for the Steering column, nope, I did not touch it at all, but I will double check things there too.

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the 7 flashes is just an identity code, I.E, AT, spfi, non cali model, etc.

 

Perhaps the igniter coil on the coil bracket has failed. 

 

the coil comes on with the key. the disty uses the optical pickup to send pulse signals to the ecu. The ecu in tirn sends pulse signals to the ign amplifier on the coil bracket, which in turn breaks the field current in the coil to induce spark.

 

The coil should zap a spark when you key off, or manually close and open contact to one of the terminals.

 

Does the engine almost want to fire half a stroke the moment you let off the key? 

Edited by MilesFox
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Fox, you were 100% right. It was indeed a loose relay above the steering column. Also the connector for the igniter was kinda gunked up, so that has been cleaned and addressed. No more issues!

 

Drove the car to work for 2 days now :D

 

It will be at Don Miller this year! 

 

Thank you for the advice.  :brat:

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So after a few months with the new 4" kit and new Struts, I have decided that new springs are needed, for some reason the rear end bottoms out while going over Track crossings. The original shocks had more dampening and force it seems.

 

As for the front struts, The passenger side tophat/lift block gets snagged in the strut tower for whatever reason causing the entire spring to twist and snap back (Causing a clunk) Why it gets stuck, unknown at this time.

 

There is also a creaking and a knock while articulating and/or while the suspension is shifting.

 

Issues I need to figure out.

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So after a few months with the new 4" kit and new Struts, I have decided that new springs are needed, for some reason the rear end bottoms out while going over Track crossings. The original shocks had more dampening and force it seems.

 

As for the front struts, The passenger side tophat/lift block gets snagged in the strut tower for whatever reason causing the entire spring to twist and snap back (Causing a clunk) Why it gets stuck, unknown at this time.

 

There is also a creaking and a knock while articulating and/or while the suspension is shifting.

 

Issues I need to figure out.

If the spring or top hat is touching the inner strut tower, you might just need to tap the area it touches with a hammer until it clears. 

 

-Bill

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