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My '92 Loyale: Safariwagon


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668 replies to this topic

#76 TheLoyale

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Posted 22 April 2011 - 10:20 AM

+1 to MilesFox, this rust is not nearly as bad as it could have been or have gotten, if I didn't address it now, it could have went south pretty quick.

#77 GirlWithALegacy

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Posted 23 April 2011 - 03:25 AM

Holy crap Loyale! I can't believe how much rust you're fighting there!!

I thought I'd seen some bad rust in L's but this one is unfortunately the worst :(

You do an amazing job to keep your L going! It certainly makes what I'm dealing with an easy task, mainly body fatigue after a good 440k kms with some hard 4wd'n since I've had her at 293k km :D

Cheers

Bennie


Yeah I thought my 93 had rust too... HAH. Tom and Fox showed me! :lol:

#78 el_freddo

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Posted 28 April 2011 - 07:34 AM

dam you aussies with your dry climate, and your un-rustable cars!


Ease up mr fox - we don't have un-rustable cars! Any rust that is found on a vehicle is good enough to have a road worthy knocked back... lucky for us in victoria you only do this when you get your car initially registered - unless you're unlucky and a member of the constabulary goes over your vehicle for an on the spot inspection...

Keep up the good work loyale! You may be keen to know there's another short clip of ruby scoo available on youtube now ;)

Cheers

Bennie

#79 TheLoyale

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Posted 28 April 2011 - 12:05 PM

Good to know, I will have a look at it!

There are Vehicle inspections in Pennsylvania were they will not allow a vehicle to pass unless everything is 100% on it, very little rust, dents, tires, etc. I say they are trying to give people the bobbins with that, Up here in Wisconsin, we don't have Vehicle Inspection, Only Emissions testing for Vehicles 1996 and newer (OBD-II Systems)

#80 987687

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Posted 28 April 2011 - 01:49 PM

Good to know, I will have a look at it!

There are Vehicle inspections in Pennsylvania were they will not allow a vehicle to pass unless everything is 100% on it, very little rust, dents, tires, etc. I say they are trying to give people the bobbins with that, Up here in Wisconsin, we don't have Vehicle Inspection, Only Emissions testing for Vehicles 1996 and newer (OBD-II Systems)


No dents? oh my... Most of the cars on here would fail. haha.

In Maine you're not supposed to have any rust holes, rusted hoses, etc. And of course a lot of really stupid stuff to fail for that doesn't really hurt anything.

Being able to put a sticker on my own car is nice. No dealing with that crap.

#81 afewsubarus

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Posted 28 April 2011 - 03:39 PM

You could save yourself a lot of trouble and take a trip out west and buy a rust free wagon. Check out the Medford, Oregon; Sacramento, Ca., San Francisco, CA; and Reno, Nevada craigslist ads. The are usually a couple of decent wagons available around the $500.00 price range.

#82 TheLoyale

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Posted 28 April 2011 - 03:45 PM

You could save yourself a lot of trouble and take a trip out west and buy a rust free wagon. Check out the Medford, Oregon; Sacramento, Ca., San Francisco, CA; and Reno, Nevada craigslist ads. The are usually a couple of decent wagons available around the $500.00 price range.


Considering I have stuck 5 years of time and sweat into this car, I ain't just gonna get a rust free body to start over with. That would be defeating the purpose of taking care of my car.

#83 GirlWithALegacy

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Posted 29 April 2011 - 12:44 AM

Amen to that! Plus, what's the fun in buying one that doesnt require a little 'bonding'? :grin:

#84 TheLoyale

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Posted 04 May 2011 - 07:05 PM

Went to NCS Autobody today and ordered my Factory paint color in 3 areo cans. I will be able to pick it up tomorrow by 3pm.

So I made progress on the rear door, all I need now is the paint and clear to finish it.

This is REAL Bondo, spreads like peanut butter slathered on my ch0de.
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Yeeah, boyy.
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#85 MilesFox

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Posted 04 May 2011 - 07:36 PM

Heck Yea:banana:

Can you try to get that trim piece off? this lets you get to that rust bubble. You would have to get the clips out from behind. 85-and 86 glued on, so if the tabs break you have that option. Then you can paint the whole door in one shot.

#86 SubaruJawn

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Posted 05 May 2011 - 07:16 AM

The Car is Looking Good Tom !
Very Lucky Loyale :)

-Jawn

#87 The Dude Abides

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Posted 05 May 2011 - 07:35 AM

Good job tom, but one thing. Rear Disc Swap man, should be the very next thing you do.

#88 TheLoyale

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Posted 05 May 2011 - 09:46 AM

Drum works just fine, plus they are new drums and have new hardware.

Edited by TheLoyale, 05 May 2011 - 09:59 AM.


#89 TheLoyale

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Posted 05 May 2011 - 10:03 AM

The very next thing I am going to do would be Valve cover seals, and paint my valve covers.

#90 987687

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Posted 05 May 2011 - 10:48 AM

The change to rear discs was amazing for me!!

But .... My rear drums were rusted to hell, cylinders leaking, shoes were gone, adjustment was crazy...

I'm sure in working condition they do pretty well. The rear discs are still nice :grin:

#91 TheLoyale

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Posted 05 May 2011 - 11:38 AM

I am hitting up the jacking points with NAPA Stone Guard and I also have a can of NAPA undercoating in which I will use around the underside of the chassis.

Fox, NAPA Stone Guard is $17 a can, it better be good! :lol:

#92 TheLoyale

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Posted 05 May 2011 - 05:15 PM

Got back from NCS in a timely fashion and finished my door.

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Did buy a new spreader.
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Just paint:
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Paint and Clear:
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After a few days, I will try some rubbing compound and then wax the hell outta it.

NAPA Stone Guard, awesome stuff.
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Moisted!

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I am pretty close to getting done, I need to fix the rear 1/4 panel that has been primer for the past 3 years, and fix the other rear door which will require the same amount of work as this side did.

Forgot to buy more POR-15 while I was as NCS.

#93 jboymechanic

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Posted 05 May 2011 - 09:53 PM

There is no such thing as being done with a car, only breaks! When are you going to do the rear wheel wells and rockers?

#94 TheLoyale

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Posted 05 May 2011 - 09:59 PM

There is no such thing as being done with a car, only breaks! When are you going to do the rear wheel wells and rockers?



Rockers for the most part are sealed up and done, besides repainting sections where I POR-ed them. The underside of the car is done and pretty much has been, I just keep adding to it to seal it upon seal it!

I am gonna clean up the wheel well lips, de-rust them, and maybe apply bondo to smooth it out and then paint it.

Really, this car is cleaner then you think. But it also has 5 years of effort into it, and sadly I am redoing some of the crap I did 2 years ago cause I didn't know what I was doing.

#95 TheLoyale

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Posted 05 May 2011 - 11:45 PM

I have one of these cool SPT hold downs coming. I like this style better then the new style which are not as bulky.

I also got a free SPT oil cap with it, all for $38. :banana:

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#96 MilesFox

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Posted 06 May 2011 - 08:30 AM

Funny how you got stone guard white. Mine is black, and was about 13 bucks.

The spt hardware is nice. Do they make them in gold? I lost my spt battery tie in johnny's loyale, and paid 30 bucks for it.

Oh, you will have to swap an ej oil tube to use the spt, unless you put it in the trashwagon.

I am thinking about using the metal ea82 fill tube on my ej swap

#97 TheLoyale

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Posted 06 May 2011 - 09:57 AM

Oh no, is it still in the back of his car? The only colors they offer them in are Aluminized Blue and Silver/Gray, I think Gold would tie in well with the STi wheels.

Stone Guard white was all they had in stock, and maybe its cheeper cause you go to their warehouse? The NAPA undercoating was $8.

As for swapping the EA82 filler tube onto an EJ, it will fix, BUT, the holes in the EA82 tube don't line up perfect (They are spaced farther apart) I have an extra EA82 tube in which I was thinking of swapping them around too.

#98 MilesFox

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Posted 06 May 2011 - 10:15 AM

You could go to car shows and talk about how you ported and gasket matched your fill tube:lol:

#99 TheLoyale

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Posted 06 May 2011 - 04:54 PM

You could go to car shows and talk about how you ported and gasket matched your fill tube:lol:


Hellz yeah !

#100 TheLoyale

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Posted 08 May 2011 - 08:39 PM

I don't understand how to blend in tap-off lines into the original paint now that it is dry and set. Tips please...?

Fox, you would probably have some input.

Wet sand it with 1500 grit?

Edited by TheLoyale, 08 May 2011 - 09:00 PM.





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