Fairtax4me Posted April 16, 2011 Share Posted April 16, 2011 Hopefully you get it figured out. These kinds of problems bug the hell out of me. I'm still stuck on trying to figure out why you have 0.8v on some of the fuses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted April 16, 2011 Share Posted April 16, 2011 I think with a reading that low like less then 1 V you can treat it as being 0V that stuff used to bother me all the time working on electrical projects until a friend schooled me on it.. way more likey to bug you on a digital meter then say an analog one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
General chaos Posted April 16, 2011 Author Share Posted April 16, 2011 the .8 volts has to be some sort of a feedback i think. thats all i could figure out. since i had been testing the wrong side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted April 16, 2011 Share Posted April 16, 2011 0.8v is probably just stray current. If you put any load on it, it would probably fall right to 0. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted April 16, 2011 Share Posted April 16, 2011 0.8v is probably just stray current. If you put any load on it, it would probably fall right to 0. yep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted April 16, 2011 Share Posted April 16, 2011 When I'm dealing with computer systems sometimes I'll have a very slight voltage where there shouldn't be any. Or where there should be a much higher voltage. I just put a small resistor across the load. If it falls to zero then I know it's just stray. Which, I then try to track down. If putting load doesn't drop the voltage something else is the matter. Your car is basically a computer system, and should be treated as such. With this type of stuff high sensitivity DMMs can be more of a curse than help for anything... Breaking out the good old analogue sometimes is the best tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted April 16, 2011 Share Posted April 16, 2011 I agree with you on the meters most of the stuff I work on is not going to get killed easy by stray voltage but it's better to be safe then sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted April 16, 2011 Share Posted April 16, 2011 0.8v is probably just stray current. If you put any load on it, it would probably fall right to 0. That's a good point. I've picked up small mounts of voltage in some circuits I've tested, but it's always way smaller. Usually less than 0.1v. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
General chaos Posted April 22, 2011 Author Share Posted April 22, 2011 it looks like this is going to be a on going problem. i havent touched the car since i posted last about the alternator. so today stuck at home i decide to do some testing. anyway that was a waste of time and i knew it. so i reach up under the fender to grab the wirign loom just before it enters the body. i move it back and forth several times. i then did it again. the rubber boot pops out of the body. great now i have to put the boot back in. so i put the new fuel pump connector wire back on the fuel sender and put the pump in the tank after testing to make sure the connector was working. so anyway back to making sure what had power and what didnt. same old thing except i put the old 15 amp fuse back in slot 16. and then i got power back to everything. the car started right up without an alternator even on the car. i do not know for sure what the problem was because i had unplugged some wires from the fuse box and plugged them back in too. because i had thoughts that maybe the fuse box connectors were bad. although i couldnt see anything. so that is where i am at. in need of fixing the alternator getting it to run smoothly. maybe time for a tune up. however next week it will probably break down again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted April 22, 2011 Share Posted April 22, 2011 Well at least it's fixed... for a little while. Poor connections are fairly common. Sometimes wires and harnesses just need to be unplugged and screwed around with. Had a strange wire problem come into the shop earlier this week. Car had a code for a pedal sensor, wiring checked out, tech replaced the sensor, then the control unit and the code kept coming back. He finally did a visual check of the wiring and found a section that looked like it had been heated up by an external source. No bare wire showing, but when the wires for the sensor were isolated away from the others in the harness the code went away and stayed gone. Tech checked sensor readings on the scanner and found they were erratic when the wires were grouped together with the others in the harness. Wrapped the wires in insulating tape and the erratic signal went away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
General chaos Posted April 22, 2011 Author Share Posted April 22, 2011 after bolting the fuse box back in. i am wondering if i may have rebumped something and it might not start again. i am almost sure it had to do with the wirign up under the dash or putting the fuse back in. i have seen spade connectors that get loose. and i have had to mash them back tight. i just hope this fixes it. now i fi could get the alt fixed i could drive the car. and no more sitting at home all day bored to death. i have work to do elsewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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