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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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So...Am I the first to have an STI gearset in his Brat?


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26 replies to this topic

#1 renob123

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Posted 14 April 2011 - 12:37 PM

I'm sure some of the locals have been wondering why I was volunteering in GD's shop and taking his verbal abuse and liberal propaganda rants without getting paid:lol: Well, I was trading some of my time so he could help me put a '95 STI 5-speed gearset in my Brat.

It came in a box of parts I bought from some high schooler. GD and I pressed a bunch of bearings and such off and added new bearings and synchros and stuff:

Posted Image

While I'm in there, I may as well throw in an OBX front LSD:

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It uses a WRX spline count, so I bought a bunch of EMPI axles and swapped the inner joints, making Brat axles with a WRX spline count:

Posted Image

I think from the top down it goes WRX, Brat, and Brat-WRX.

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They fit:

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Here's the OBX LSD with 4.11 ring. Edrach was kind enough to bring down a clutch-type rear for me so I could get maximum grip on both ends.

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Big ups to GD for this part. I'm not anal enough to do this type of thing. At least not well. Since a '95 STI had a hydro clutch, we used a case from a '97 Legacy Brighton, which uses a cable clutch. Here's the gearset in the case:

Posted Image

GD made a crossmember and shortened the EJ linkage so it would fit. Hopefully I don't do this to the EJ style mount:

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Here's me at the rallyx the next weekend:

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I'm not totally sure what I want to do with this big hole, but I think it should probably get covered somehow. Ideas?

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Overall, I have a massive traction advantage now. Also, the power of the Frankenmotor is much more usable. There's minimal wheel-hop, and I can pretty much floor it and not lose traction. At least in the dry. I'm hoping to be pretty competitive in the drier events this year. I haven't figured out what I'm going to do for muddy events. I'm thinking about cutting my 13" rally tires for mud and sourcing some 14" soft compound tires for dry events. With the 6-lug swap, I can order cheap wheels off of Summit in 14" and 15". I didn't want to choose between the two sizes until I knew more about how these short gear ratios work.

Jacob

#2 WoodsWagon

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Posted 14 April 2011 - 01:02 PM

So how well does the OBX work in the mud?

#3 renob123

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Posted 14 April 2011 - 01:20 PM

So how well does the OBX work in the mud?


It works very well. I've only had 1 rallyx with it so far, but it's leaps and bounds above an open front. I can keep my foot pretty much pegged to the floor and keep control. I think this type of diff will also help with braking.

Jacob

#4 1982gl4

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Posted 14 April 2011 - 02:45 PM

That's so awesome! I envy you, if I ever get sick of my current trans (once it's running) This may be something to think about...

#5 renob123

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Posted 14 April 2011 - 04:49 PM

That's so awesome! I envy you, if I ever get sick of my current trans (once it's running) This may be something to think about...


I doubt you will for a while. At your stage of build, you have no way of knowing what your weakest link will be when you start driving it.

Jacob

#6 monstaru

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Posted 14 April 2011 - 05:46 PM

this is awwesome....i just picked up an OBX as well.but i am not really up on transmission work either.i need to find a damn manual.good work on the axles.cheers, b

#7 renob123

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Posted 14 April 2011 - 05:57 PM

this is awwesome....i just picked up an OBX as well.but i am not really up on transmission work either.i need to find a damn manual.good work on the axles.cheers, b


Thanks. As I said before, you'll be happy with the LSD. You should go on NABISCO and look up the thread there. They list some parts you can order from McMaster to replace the cheap parts inside the diff.

I'm surprised at how the axle thing worked out. I called EMPI and was directed to a person who makes the axles. He answered my questions so readily that I didn't know how to handle it.

If anyone has some suggestions for the hole in the floor, please let me know. I'm sure as soon as I weld it shut, I'll come up with some awesome idea for it.

Jacob

#8 monstaru

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Posted 14 April 2011 - 09:21 PM

Thanks. As I said before, you'll be happy with the LSD. You should go on NABISCO and look up the thread there. They list some parts you can order from McMaster to replace the cheap parts inside the diff.

I'm surprised at how the axle thing worked out. I called EMPI and was directed to a person who makes the axles. He answered my questions so readily that I didn't know how to handle it.

If anyone has some suggestions for the hole in the floor, please let me know. I'm sure as soon as I weld it shut, I'll come up with some awesome idea for it.

Jacob


i vote for cutting board,it is easily cut, and you can replace easily if you mess up to bad without to much work.and it is cheap.

#9 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 14 April 2011 - 10:14 PM

I'm thinking we need a shifter boot from a Loyale - one of the push-button one's that mounts right to the floor. And we fix the hole to match the size of the boot.... maybe more of the diamond plate.

Should work out well I think...... :)

GD

Edited by GeneralDisorder, 14 April 2011 - 10:30 PM.


#10 eulogious

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Posted 15 April 2011 - 06:01 AM

Good work guys! Good to see some cool stuff stuffed under that brat of yours :grin:

You should stop by here again on some of your adventures up north so I can take a ride in your brat again :D

#11 renob123

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Posted 15 April 2011 - 12:38 PM

i vote for cutting board,it is easily cut, and you can replace easily if you mess up to bad without to much work.and it is cheap.


I'm thinking we need a shifter boot from a Loyale - one of the push-button one's that mounts right to the floor. And we fix the hole to match the size of the boot.... maybe more of the diamond plate.

Should work out well I think...... :)

GD


I was thinking a center speaker or sub or something. Maybe a brake bias controller. A strobe light pointing down would be pretty funny.

Good work guys! Good to see some cool stuff stuffed under that brat of yours :grin:

You should stop by here again on some of your adventures up north so I can take a ride in your brat again :D


I love that the cool stuff is under a Brat that looks like a total piece of garbage.

I have a couple trips in the works. One of them is for rallyx. You should come out.

Jacob

#12 eulogious

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Posted 15 April 2011 - 12:48 PM

I have a couple trips in the works. One of them is for rallyx. You should come out.


Rallyx eh? LMK, I would love to see this thing in real race action! :grin:

#13 Yo'J

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Posted 17 April 2011 - 02:33 AM

Pond liner for the boot! Make sure you have some slack and make a screw down ring for it and trim the rest, it might look pretty good! You could put grandmas old upholstery over it! I'm loving your build btw...

#14 renob123

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Posted 18 April 2011 - 01:59 PM

[quote name='Yo'J;1011086]Pond liner for the boot! Make sure you have some slack and make a screw down ring for it and trim the rest' date=' it might look pretty good! You could put grandmas old upholstery over it! I'm loving your build btw...[/QUOTE']

Thanks. That's a pretty good idea. I may just pick up a boot from eBay or something for the outside, but some kind of pond liner or tarp-ish material under that would probably be smart.

Jacob

#15 bluto5

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Posted 19 April 2011 - 10:52 PM

Awesome!

#16 old sub freak

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Posted 19 April 2011 - 11:26 PM

very good...i was wondering if anyone has ever welded up the inside of the tranny so it would be "locked up"like we have done on the rear ends. years ago we talked about it but alas never did it.so has anyone ever done that and did it hold up? it fun to see what people are coming up with.... c ya,todd :banana:

#17 Pooparu

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Posted 20 April 2011 - 12:16 AM

Nicely done man. I'm hoping to get my Hatch out for one or two rally X's this year.

#18 renob123

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Posted 20 April 2011 - 12:27 PM

very good...i was wondering if anyone has ever welded up the inside of the tranny so it would be "locked up"like we have done on the rear ends. years ago we talked about it but alas never did it.so has anyone ever done that and did it hold up? it fun to see what people are coming up with.... c ya,todd :banana:


I think most people would choose a transmission that had a locking center, rather than welding one with a VC.

Nicely done man. I'm hoping to get my Hatch out for one or two rally X's this year.


Thanks. Definitely come out. It's like crack to me:)

On a separate note, this pic makes me think I should do something about the Brat's positive camber:

Posted Image

Jacob

#19 WoodsWagon

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Posted 21 April 2011 - 12:03 AM

EA82 lower control arms?

#20 renob123

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Posted 21 April 2011 - 11:50 AM

EA82 lower control arms?


Thanks. I was actually researching that yesterday. Great minds, I guess:grin: I haven't gotten very far yet, but that may very well be the way I end up going.

Jacob

#21 Pooparu

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Posted 21 April 2011 - 01:22 PM

Thanks. I was actually researching that yesterday. Great minds, I guess:grin: I haven't gotten very far yet, but that may very well be the way I end up going.

Jacob


That's the setup I have on my lifted BRAT. Works really good, but you might want to get some fender flares.

#22 renob123

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Posted 21 April 2011 - 01:28 PM

That's the setup I have on my lifted BRAT. Works really good, but you might want to get some fender flares.


We'll see what wheels/tires I end up with. What exactly was your setup? Just the control arms, or EA82 axles, knuckles, crossmember, etc.?

Jacob

#23 Uberoo

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Posted 21 April 2011 - 02:31 PM

could always slot the holes where the strut mounts up top and beat the sheet metal to clear.would be a shame not to use those nice axles you have...

#24 renob123

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Posted 21 April 2011 - 02:35 PM

could always slot the holes where the strut mounts up top and beat the sheet metal to clear.would be a shame not to use those nice axles you have...


I was also thinking about that. At least it would give me the ability to adjust it easier. Just move the holes around vs. re-cut and re-weld every time I want to change. Plus I could keep the car narrower, which means fewer cones being hit.

Jacob

#25 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 21 April 2011 - 11:03 PM

If we decide to do that then we will reinforce the strut tower area and add a slotting system that can accurately adjust the camber via a series of holes.

GD




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