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Really Bad steering wheel shake


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Tom, are you aware of the correct bleeding order for that car? For our '95s the manual calls for front passenger 1st, rear driver 2nd, front driver 3rd and rear passenger last. Not sure if it would be the same for Kara's car.

 

 

Jon, what you just typed applies to ALL Subarus, even non-ABS 80s Subarus. This is what I told you when you were doing yours.

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Oh, I did not know that. I'm used to the old-timey American cars where the order is rear pass, rear driver, front pass, front driver.

 

Said it to you once, I will say it to you again, This is not a GM or Chrysler, as Fox says (Everything you know about cars, toss out the window when working on a Subaru)

 

:)

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if you can take a cursory glance and compare the new one to the one on the car if you're driving that car there. turn the wheel all the way left or right and peer behind the tire to make sure the hose looks the same. last set of hoses i got worked but we had to fabricate a bracket because the one was not right.

 

i i was kidding by the way, not meant to annoy.

 

No, I wasn't driving the "Grandma Wagon" to the parts store. Had to go to my favorite store in the town I used to live, to trade in some GM parts for Subaru parts (Priorities right? :) ) (had to order, will get in next day or two) Don't worry, would take LOTS more to annoy me, I just really apprecieate the help. Thanks Gary!

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Oh, I did not know that. I'm used to the old-timey American cars where the order is rear pass, rear driver, front pass, front driver.

 

I am also used to the American cars-(I have a couple) It only makes sense- you are supposed to bleed furthest from the master first. And work your way up. I guess that's why I'm on the USMB, I have no clue about these "new fangled" Japanese cars. My friend told me I needed one cause you never have to lay underneath them. I guess he was wrong.

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Oh, I did not know that. I'm used to the old-timey American cars where the order is rear pass, rear driver, front pass, front driver.

 

old american stuff(;ike my gmc) haver a FR and RR distribution, being that both rear wheels are on the same line, as well as the front.

 

The subaru however(and most modern day cars since the 90's) have a dual diagonal brake system, where one front wheel, and its opposite rear wheel are on a circuit, and vice versa. (tom, this explains why i only get brake pressure out of LF and RR wheels)

 

This is designed for safety. my gmc has a bad wheel cylindr, so i only have front brakes, and in the rain, the fronts can lock and lose steering control. The soob, however, will grab one front and one wheel to give the car a more balanced braking ability if one side loses pressure.

 

Typically, you would want to start at the whell farthest from the MC, being the RR

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I am also used to the American cars-(I have a couple) It only makes sense- you are supposed to bleed furthest from the master first. And work your way up. I guess that's why I'm on the USMB, I have no clue about these "new fangled" Japanese cars. My friend told me I needed one cause you never have to lay underneath them. I guess he was wrong.

 

Sometimes i get flack about my japanese subaru when it comes to small town america old timers. Their sentiments being from WW2 and that time of history, union loyalty, baby boomer, etc. (Their stigmas towards 'japs' as there are with muslims in this modern post september era)

 

But when i get hell at the local napa for buying japanese parts for a japanese car, my justification is I am spending my american made american dollars at an americal local independent napa to order parts manufactured by and for american companies(Felpro with national seals in the box) and this japanese car that was bought 20 years ago is already bought, and my money still keeps going to the local gas station, the guy i bought it from, and gets my happy rump roast to work

 

It's really a generational thing, wether you are of a generation, or influenced by a generation.

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My friend told me I needed one cause you never have to lay underneath them. I guess he was wrong.
that's more a figure of speech than truth. it's still a ten year old car, any 10 year old car is going to need something...particularly if it's seeing winters. but you can own this H6 for another 10 years and 150,000 miles easily with a few maintenance items here or there. 10 year old cars that won't need any maintenance, but that's more the exception than the rule. most of my subaru's have needed some attention, but i also figure the 3 daily drivers i have now will probably make 300,000 miles rather inexpensively without any major failures.
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that's more a figure of speech than truth. it's still a ten year old car, any 10 year old car is going to need something...particularly if it's seeing winters. but you can own this H6 for another 10 years and 150,000 miles easily with a few maintenance items here or there. 10 year old cars that won't need any maintenance, but that's more the exception than the rule. most of my subaru's have needed some attention, but i also figure the 3 daily drivers i have now will probably make 300,000 miles rather inexpensively without any major failures.

 

Thats the main point, These Subarus won't create a major failure (Unless you spin a bearing) Subarus are so damn easy to work on its outstanding, even your car Kara is easy to work on once you know what your looking at and how to get around without taking everything off.

 

Take care of that H6 and open it up now and then, it'll last you with simple maintenance.

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I know you guys are right, and I have no problem with maintainance.

I just need to catch it before it goes from- "I think I better check out the brakes pretty soon" -and "HOLY CRAP! pounding shaking crazyness". And- My Subaru is way cooler than those sh*t box Toyotas the Friend drives!

Next thing to address- that "chirping" coming from the "belt area" I read on here a while back, about H6 issues with tensioner pulley bearings. I wrote down the Napa part # to repace just the $3 bearing and keep the pulley. Hoping I can find that note...

If ya'll can give me tips on other things to "Maintain" I'd appreciate-

Thanks guys! We'll let you know how the brake job goes this afternoon!

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I would suggest runnning 1/4 or 1/2 can of Seafoam through the brake booster hose, it will suck it in through-out the intake system and clean out carbon build up and such, your Subaru will thank you for that as well.

 

DO NOT, Put the seafoam in you're oil, you do not have ticking and if you change you're oil every 4,000 you won't get a build up of sludge on the lifters and such. If you want to run a little MMO in your oil that is fine.

 

If you get to the point where you want to change plugs/wires, go with NGK. I'm not sure what plugs the EZ30 takes, are they the same as an EJ engine? (Kara, it should say in your owners manual)

 

Change the Diff oils as I'm sure they have never been changed in the 118,000.

 

Run a Genuine or WIX or NAPA oil filter, DO NOT, run Fram Oil filters, the internals are made of paper and could break down and chunks enter the oil system, clogging little oil passages.

 

A few things that came to mind.

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We pulled the hose from right front, and could blow thru it. Even after hose was disconnected, caliper was still tight (could not turn wheel by hand) Changed hose out anyway, with a used one. Slapped on pads, and bled it. (00-06 Manual said order RR-LR-RF-LF. Just like an old GM) That RF caliper was definately replaced, as LF looks way worse. After test drive, front wheels both a little warm. Will have to do a little more driving- but maybe it IS the caliper.

Big Thank You to Tom (TheLoyale) You sure are a swell guy!!!

Too bad you had to go, I would have liked to test drive that sweet ride you brought today!

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OH! I could have shown you how to upload a picture from your PC to a website! Thats what I forgot, Its ok, I'm sure I'll be over there agina next weekend :lol:

 

You're sure??? You think it's the caliper then?

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You're sure??? You think it's the caliper then?

 

 

I'm not sure, if the problem does come back, then I would suspect that to be the culprit, theres nothing else left, and seeing how this was swap in from some hillbilly from Alabama, then maybe it is crap :lol:

 

Let me know if there is any change in how it drives.

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I'm not sure, if the problem does come back, then I would suspect that to be the culprit, theres nothing else left, and seeing how this was swap in from some hillbilly from Alabama, then maybe it is crap :lol:

 

Let me know if there is any change in how it drives.

 

You should watch who you call a hillbilly! They were Napa parts afterall, where are they from?? China???

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Sometimes i get flack about my japanese subaru when it comes to small town america old timers. Their sentiments being from WW2 and that time of history, union loyalty, baby boomer, etc. (Their stigmas towards 'japs' as there are with muslims in this modern post september era)

 

But when i get hell at the local napa for buying japanese parts for a japanese car, my justification is I am spending my american made american dollars at an americal local independent napa to order parts manufactured by and for american companies(Felpro with national seals in the box) and this japanese car that was bought 20 years ago is already bought, and my money still keeps going to the local gas station, the guy i bought it from, and gets my happy rump roast to work

 

It's really a generational thing, wether you are of a generation, or influenced by a generation.

I hope you are not grouping me in with a bunch of racists, (because I only know how to work on old G.M.'s,) as that could not be further from the truth. My Grandpa fought in WW2 and he is not a racist either- I own a Subaru, and I want to learn how to work on it, that is the only thing that matters here.

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