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Is this a fair price for an 84 wagon?


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14 replies to this topic

#1 willd

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Posted 06 June 2011 - 04:06 PM

Everybody here was such a great help on the last wagon I was looking at, I'm hoping for more. Here's the description:

1984 Subaru GL wagon 4 x4. 4 spd, A/C, cruise control, power windows, power mirrors, tilt steering wheel, radio & cassette, and block heater. Only 91,800 miles. Extra set of wheels with studded snow tires mounted on them included. New battery, belts, and wiper blades.

What do you think, is 2000 a good price for this car? The paint looks about right for 27 years outside in MT.

#2 General chaos

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Posted 06 June 2011 - 05:41 PM

2000 for a 1984? have you checked with kbb.com or nada.com on its value?

Edited by General chaos, 06 June 2011 - 05:44 PM.


#3 willd

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Posted 06 June 2011 - 06:37 PM

kbb only goes back to 91 and i always feel like nada isn't realistic for a daily driver. I just joined this group recently but I've been learning from it for a while. So, any thoughts are greatly appreciated.

#4 ihscout54

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Posted 06 June 2011 - 06:49 PM

Agreed - NADA's values are only good for insurance purposes. They are just too high for real world use.

This car sounds like a decent ride, and they are a little hard to come by, but a wagon in my area would have to be VERY clean to fetch $2k. I sold my wagon a couple years ago and it took a while to sell it running and driving at 1/4 that price.
http://www.ultimates...ght=wagon vegas
I got into these Subarus for 2 reasons. They were cheap to buy and cheap to feed. Ive now had 4 of these cars and I paid less than $400 for each. Granted they were purchased in need of repair. That being said it would have to be VERY clean for me to test drive one with a $2000 price tag, especially if its not a BRAT.

Ive found 4wd vehicle prices in rural areas to be a bit high, but if $2k is the range of where this type of vehicle is commonly priced in your area, then perhapse its a fair price. It also comes down to what you want/need. If its ready to roll, runs quiet/sweet, the interior is decent, a/c is cold, etc. Then make an offer.

#5 heartless

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Posted 06 June 2011 - 08:37 PM

price is always subjective - a lot depends on the area, availability, condition, and so on.

without actually seeing/inspecting the car, driving the car, and knowing more about the area you live in (are these common, uncommon, etc) it is really hard to say what is a "fair price"

yeah, it sounds like a nice ride and very low mileage for its age...but what physical condition is it in? does the current owner have maintenance records? how long have they owned it?

a good clean, rust free car would bring very good money here in Wisconsin - but a fraction of that in WA/OR where they are fairly common

#6 the sucker king

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Posted 06 June 2011 - 08:49 PM

It sounds like a good car, but you didn't mention the body condition. Bad paint can be fixed. Rust not so much. a 100% rust free car like you described, I would pay 2k for, but understand that that is top dollar. If rust free, I would offer $1200 and go from there. You've got to be willing to say "Dude.....it's a 27 year old subaru!"

#7 willd

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Posted 06 June 2011 - 08:51 PM

I'm going to check it out tomorrow. He came down to 1600, and with the extra rims, and if it is rust free, I think I have to say yes. You'll probably be hearing from me a bit more on these threads as I start to make it my own. I'll try to post pictures and give you an update after I see it. Thanks again for all of your input.

#8 Crazyeights

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Posted 06 June 2011 - 08:55 PM

Basically on something like this it all comes down to a few things. Like others have said, how bad is the rust? It's there somewhere even if you can't see it. What is it like mechanically? Lastly how badly do YOU want it? It's worth exactly what you are willing to pay for it. Think it over, have a Subaru friend look at it, and decide what you are willing to pay for it. Doesn't really matter what others think it's worth on something like this IMHO. Good Luck:) Bring a flashlight and look for evidence of water/rust under the dash on both sides. Pull back the front carpet and see if the pad it wet. These things almost ALWAYS leak, and where they leak there is hidden rust somewhere.

Edited by Crazyeights, 06 June 2011 - 08:58 PM.


#9 willd

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Posted 06 June 2011 - 09:50 PM

Thanks, will do. It spent most of its life in Missoula, so salt's probably not an issue. I'll definitely look for the rust. Any specific tips are really helpful.

#10 92_rugby_subie

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Posted 06 June 2011 - 11:24 PM

Theres a 1981 Hatch here in Portland for 1200 or best offer... Rust free, 107k original miles etc.

Looks quite clean, so its probably safe to say 2000 isnt a bad price if its in really good condition.. Check for rust, body dents, etc. Look under them too, I remember out at GDs, an OBS had some under body damage from offroading that nobody saw when it was purchased

#11 heartless

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Posted 07 June 2011 - 10:14 AM

go to look at it with your eyes open - do not be blinded by looks at a distance. poke and pick it apart!

like already mentioned, check under the carpeting for moisture evidence/smell

likely locations for rust: back sides of the wheel wells are usually good for rust - the very back & bottom of the rear fenders - bottoms of doors - rocker panels - bottom edge of rear hatch (the part not visible with it closed) - around door handles - check carefully around windshield for signs of bubbling/rust - also around rear window - along any/all exterior trim, too
under hood: battery tray area - strut/shock towers - do the 84's carry the spare under hood? if so, check that area thoroughly.

interior: is it clean? filthy? smell funny? look carefully between seats and center console - if it was a hurry up clean up job, there will be evidence of ickiness there. does the wear seem appropriate for the miles/age of the car? is anything broken, torn, missing?

if you go into this expecting to find something wrong, you can be mildly surprised by not finding things - but dont get carried away with the surprise (poker face ;) )

you might want to take a smallish magnet with you too - check for bondo body work - a typical fridge magnet will work - if it sticks strong, it is good metal, if it wont stick at all - thick bondo - sort of sticks but not very well, thinner bondo...
only need to do this if the paint doesnt seem to be as old as the car - looks too good to be as old as the car - or has obviously been touched up.

#12 bheinen74

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Posted 07 June 2011 - 12:31 PM

If the car has 91k miles, and still has original paint and that paint still looks nice all over, then yes way worth the 2g they are asking. A repaint could cover up lots of previous damage, rust, dents, and then not worth near the 2g.

At 91k it should still be original paint if cared for well.

A car with 91k and having already had a repaint is a sign of damage prior.

#13 Crazyeights

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Posted 07 June 2011 - 08:09 PM

Are the tips in this thread compiled in a "sticky" or FAQ somewhere? They could really help save someone a lot of trouble if they could be pointed to easily each time it comes up. Just a thought.

#14 willd

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 10:38 AM

If you look at the little picture you'll see I picked up the car. It is in pretty amazing condition. I went over it with a fine toothed comb and everything looks great. There are two small issues I'll address in another thread. Thanks again for all of the help!

Edited by willd, 08 June 2011 - 02:56 PM.


#15 chrisgpz

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 01:31 PM

congrats! PICS!!!




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