Hitachi solenoids, schematic ea82 brat

[MilesFox]

Desmond is selling the brat, and the motor ahs been used in something else, so we have a leftover ea82 as a replacement.

 

The ea82 is installed, fires up, but does not run without feathering the pedal.

 

The ea82 is from an 86 gl coupe, fwd 5spd. The brat is an 86 4spd 4wd.

 

We had the haynes book for a schematic, 'typical 83-86 feedback carburetor'

 

What i want to know is if the egir defaults to open or close.

 

I know that hitachis will run only in the choke circuit with no electrical power.

 

So car it appears that the 2 solenoids on the carb body are clicking, and also the ones on the thermostat(vacuum solenoids of some sort, must open or close at idle/wot?) although i am not sure of their function without a proper vacuum schematic.

[GeneralDisorder]

EGR should default to closed - being they are only used for cruiseing RPM's and higher.

 

The solenoids on the carb..... are you refering to the idle cut solenoid, and the float bowl vent solenoid.... or are you talking about the feedback duty solenoids that run the high speed and low speed mixture control circuits.... those are usually on the manifold not the carb itself.

 

GD

[MilesFox]

Well, i guess the idle cut would be most important. I believe it is working, since you hear it click when the key is on. Some of the harnes on the ea82 carb has been matched color to color with wires originating from the brat.

 

How necessary are the duty solenoids on the manifold? these route with vac lines in and out of the carb body.

 

The brat seems to run better now. This is a known good engine, as it ran well in my 3door, but would stall at idle after warm.

 

I will recommend we pull off the EGR and have a look and make sure its not stuck open.

[GeneralDisorder]

Well, i guess the idle cut would be most important. I believe it is working, since you hear it click when the key is on. Some of the harnes on the ea82 carb has been matched color to color with wires originating from the brat.

 

The idle cut is neccesary as without power you will have no idle circuit - just give it +12v. It grounds through the carb body.

 

I don't think you will need to power the bowl vent solenoid. But it's similar... +12v will open it so the bowl is vented - in case you think there's a buildup of pressure or something in the bowl. I've never bothered with powering them.

 

How necessary are the duty solenoids on the manifold? these route with vac lines in and out of the carb body.

 

Without the computer they are worthless. They require a square wave signal from the feedback computer.... the frequency of which is based on it's reading of the O2 sensor - they regulate airflow to the high and low speed circuits of the carb..... I would make a note of which ports they connect to on the carb and then likely cap them off at first..... if the mixture is too rich you can then progressively orifice the ports till you find a happy medium.

 

I will recommend we pull off the EGR and have a look and make sure its not stuck open.

 

Yeah - or just replace with one from an EJ engine that's newer and known to be good..... they are smaller and much easier to work around, etc. You can also weld up the holes in the EGR valve body (cut off the diaphram portion) and use it as it's own block-off plate.

 

GD

[MilesFox]

Thanks. I will consider the cap of the vacuum ports, ans the car does smell rch when running. I do have the ecu for this engine, but not the body harness to tie it in.

 

This brat will have to drive to PA for a prospective buyer