1-3-2-4 Posted July 14, 2011 Share Posted July 14, 2011 pending for the last week of this month I have a few questions getting to the bolts as far as the starter and bell housing is it going to be hard to get to those areas? I was not going to buy my clutch this week but next month but I need to get to the rear oil separator I'm pretty sure they make a clutch alignment tool just by it's self? I just have permatex ultra gray anything else I need to be looking for? Now as far as the heads go I thought I saw on some site or whatever about something pops out when you remove the cams? Also is goof off ok to use to remove the built up carbon never the outer part of the cylinder wall where the head meets the block? Any suggestions on a 12-pt 14mm socket in 1/2" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 14, 2011 Share Posted July 14, 2011 pending for the last week of this month I have a few questions getting to the bolts as far as the starter and bell housing is it going to be hard to get to those areas? The lower nut on the starter (or bolt for 99+) can be a pain though usually is no trouble with a deep socket and 6" extension. Just get far enough back to clear the body of the starter. The biggest pain is the driver's side lower bell-housing nut. They are often REDICULOUSLY tight and are directly in front of the axle. Often I have to use 24" of extension, a wobbly (or wobbly socket), reducer from 1/2" to 3/8" and a 1/2" breaker bar to get them loose. I was not going to buy my clutch this week but next month but I need to get to the rear oil separator I'm pretty sure they make a clutch alignment tool just by it's self? So you are going to pull the engine twice? Seems like a bad plan. Exedy KSB04 is $145 with free shipping on Amazon...... yes they sell the alignment tool seperate - probably $4 or so. I just have permatex ultra gray anything else I need to be looking for? I don't use much RTV anymore.... personally I find that for the water pump and oil seperator plate the Loctite 518 or Permatex Anaerobic (red death we call it) works better and lasts longer. Now as far as the heads go I thought I saw on some site or whatever about something pops out when you remove the cams? The lifter buckets may fall out when you remove the cams. Just be careful and note which one's go where. aso is goof off ok to use to remove the built up carbon never the outer part of the cylinder wall where the head meets the block? Razor blades, brown scotch-brite, and lacquer thinner. Any suggestions on a 12-pt 14mm socket in 1/2" Craftsman will work fine. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted July 15, 2011 Author Share Posted July 15, 2011 Can't the clutch be changed with the motor in the car? I'm leaving the 3rd week of Aug for the transmission to be replaced. As far as that nut I guess I should be ok.. I have way more then enough extensions (seem to adopted some) but I will make a note of that.. I don't think my total extensions add up to 24" however.. this reminds me to pick up a feeler gauge tomorrow I'd have to check the FSM but I think it talks about how to find out what shim you need if you need to replace them. I'm going to be doing the timing belt at the same time I've been looking for 2 months on and off each time for Permatex Anaerobic, I go to the auto store (advance auto, auto zone) and I've never seen it in the store anymore.. I thought maybe they stopped selling it? If I can't find it local tomorrow I'm just going to order it online. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 15, 2011 Share Posted July 15, 2011 Can't the clutch be changed with the motor in the car? I'm leaving the 3rd week of Aug for the transmission to be replaced. Yeah - if you are pulling the transmission then it can be done at that time. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted July 15, 2011 Author Share Posted July 15, 2011 between the leaking cam seals and front oil seal and the rear plate I'm going to need to stock up on some shop rags.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted July 15, 2011 Author Share Posted July 15, 2011 Odd I'm looking at the FSM for my 97 OBW and I don't see anything about the shims under the DOHC engine.. would it be under on-car services? i swear I saw it someplace before... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted July 15, 2011 Author Share Posted July 15, 2011 Hmm the 97 OB the clutch has 24 splines right? What size is the input diameter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted July 16, 2011 Share Posted July 16, 2011 Hmm the 97 OB the clutch has 24 splines right? What size is the input diameter? All n/a clutches should be the same, in that regard. I'll count/measure tomorrow when I go out to my garage where I have all such parts sitting on shelves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted July 16, 2011 Author Share Posted July 16, 2011 thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rpm90001 Posted July 16, 2011 Share Posted July 16, 2011 So you are going to pull the engine twice? Seems like a bad plan. Exedy KSB04 is $145 with free shipping on Amazon...... yes they sell the alignment tool seperate - probably $4 or so. The ksb04 kit from amazon does come with the alignment tool. Nice kit, I just installed on myself when I did the HG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted July 16, 2011 Author Share Posted July 16, 2011 (edited) Oh yeah I checked pep boys yesterday and still no luck with that permatex sealant why is this stuff so hard to find? I'm going to fire off an email to them asking what's up with checking 3 auto stores with no sign of it Oh man the leg parts for the engine lift must of been about 120Lb for it alone Edited July 16, 2011 by 1-3-2-4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted July 16, 2011 Share Posted July 16, 2011 Just a comment on the clutch... Doing just the clutch disc and nothing else, is, quite frankly a stupid waste of money. The reason a lot of clutches start slipping is because the pressure plate gets weak. Also, it would be dumb not to have the flywheel resurfaced if you don't want to pull the engine again. While you're doing clutch stuff, may as well put in a new pilot bearing and throw out bearing, because they're not that expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rpm90001 Posted July 16, 2011 Share Posted July 16, 2011 I used 3m ultra pro black 08672 this is recommended by subaru as an alternative. I used it and have been leak free. George Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted July 16, 2011 Author Share Posted July 16, 2011 987687 I'm not pulling the engine to do the clutch next month I'm pulling the transmission because it needs to be replaced as well should be more then enough room to do what I need to do. Who knows what the last owner did.. they "SAID" that the car had the clutch replaced.. but who knows if it was done right or if they resurfaced the flywheel or whatever.. I've come to the conclusion the reason why the tranny is shot is because of a seal that leaked and it ran low to almost nothing and that was that.. It took me about 3 weeks when I got the car to keep checking the fluids until it holds steady now. I have no real problem pulling one or the other that's why I went out and picked up the engine picker and I have the transmission jack already. As to why not do the clutch now well I'm still putting it on a not so good transmission so what's the point in that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted July 16, 2011 Share Posted July 16, 2011 Not saying to do the clutch now. I'm just saying not to only replace the disc. As long as the diff doesn't make any bad noises I probably wouldn't worry about it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted July 16, 2011 Author Share Posted July 16, 2011 Not saying to do the clutch now. I'm just saying not to only replace the disc. As long as the diff doesn't make any bad noises I probably wouldn't worry about it... Oh lol no I'm not just replacing the disc I bet that's what the last owner did.. I wont know for sure till I see it first hand. The diff is not making any noise it's the bearings inside the transmission mainly when in 2nd gear. I'd say it's pretty tame however I've put 3K on it so far being this way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted July 18, 2011 Share Posted July 18, 2011 I also have a million Subaru clutch alignment tools in my toolbox currently as I work for an independent Subaru shop out here in Seattle area. If I were you, go to your local Harbor Freight and get the few tools you'll need. I use a 14mm 12pt 1/2" drive socket from Harbor Freight and it cost me like $3 bucks. I would do the clutch and the separator plate at the same time because it doesn't make sense to do it after you do the headgaskets. Also, make SURE you get the updated separator plate as the factory one in your car is plastic and from '99 and up, they went to aluminum which stay sealed better for longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted July 19, 2011 Author Share Posted July 19, 2011 (edited) I also have a million Subaru clutch alignment tools in my toolbox currently as I work for an independent Subaru shop out here in Seattle area. If I were you, go to your local Harbor Freight and get the few tools you'll need. I use a 14mm 12pt 1/2" drive socket from Harbor Freight and it cost me like $3 bucks. I would do the clutch and the separator plate at the same time because it doesn't make sense to do it after you do the headgaskets. Also, make SURE you get the updated separator plate as the factory one in your car is plastic and from '99 and up, they went to aluminum which stay sealed better for longer. Thanks for the tip I already have the separator plate it's been on the shelf in the closet for about a year. I already picked up the 14mm 12pt socket it's in the picture shown above but in the plastic bag. I just sent a email off to permatex because this past weekend I searched Auto zone, advance auto and pep boys.. all the way in Orange, CT and STILL unable to find it... So I asked them pretty much do they just not sell to these stores or what.. it's crazy I don't want to have to do it but I just might have to buy it from ebay :-/ Going to try NAPA tomorrow if nothing then I'm going to wait to hear back from permatex Napa seems to have it Edited July 19, 2011 by 1-3-2-4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rpm90001 Posted July 19, 2011 Share Posted July 19, 2011 I don't know why you are having such a problem Auto zone. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Permatex-3-5-oz-99-g-tube-Ultra-Grey-rigid-High-Torque-RTV-silicone-gasket-maker/_/N-25a0?itemIdentifier=306563&_requestid=1538000 Amazon free shipping http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82194-Ultra-Gasket-Maker/dp/B000HBGI8K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1311103429&sr=8-1 Advance auto http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Ultra-Grey&174;-Rigid-High-Torque-RTV-Silicone-Gasket-Maker-Permatex_7160017-P_N2131_T%7CGRP2132____ If auto zone or advanced don't have it in stock, it only takes a day to get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted July 19, 2011 Share Posted July 19, 2011 bolt the new trans up to the engine now and drop them in as one lump and be done with it. i've done that before, would save you some labor/time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted July 19, 2011 Author Share Posted July 19, 2011 I don't know why you are having such a problem Auto zone. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Permatex-3-5-oz-99-g-tube-Ultra-Grey-rigid-High-Torque-RTV-silicone-gasket-maker/_/N-25a0?itemIdentifier=306563&_requestid=1538000 Amazon free shipping http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82194-Ultra-Gasket-Maker/dp/B000HBGI8K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1311103429&sr=8-1 Advance auto http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Ultra-Grey&174;-Rigid-High-Torque-RTV-Silicone-Gasket-Maker-Permatex_7160017-P_N2131_T%7CGRP2132____ If auto zone or advanced don't have it in stock, it only takes a day to get. Not sure why but I heard back from Permatex and NAPA should have it.. the larger package of it is like $16 for the gasket stuff. At autozone and advance they just have RTV and the right stuff going to pick it up from Napa this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted July 22, 2011 Author Share Posted July 22, 2011 Hopefully this stuff lasts a good long time wont be pulling the motor now until Friday of next week because I have to shuttle all these people around.. Going to put the engine picking together so I can get it out of the car. I still can't find out about the valve clearance in the manual under the DOHC engine section.. I know it was something like you had to subtract or whatever to find the right replacement shim? Also from what I think I heard GD say here was it was mostly the exhaust valves that needed adjusting and the intakes are fine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted July 22, 2011 Author Share Posted July 22, 2011 I decided to put my engine picker together today while it was 100F outside.. and while I have a stupid cold.. I'm not sure when I started my timer but I was done in a little under an hour.. I had to store it in the basement just in-case someone tries to walk off with it, but the basement is down some 3 shallow steps haha going to be fun getting it back up the steps when it's time.. Did anyone use a engine leveller with it? Hmm for my first time I wonder how long it's going to take... I took these pictures because I'm working in some tight spaces. That line to the EGR a offset wrench will work best on it right? I might have to give it a shot of PB blaster the compression fitting is a little rusted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 When I pull these motors I tie a rope around the forward intake runners and hook on to that. It lifts the engine up perfectly balanced, no need for a leveler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 No need for a leveler anyway. These motors are relatively light. There are a couple spots on the motor that are actually meant for lifting points. I personally wouldn't lift from the intake manifold, but that's just me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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