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Guest Message by DevFuse

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duty c replacement guide

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7 replies to this topic

#1 95legwagon


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  • west hartford

Posted 17 July 2011 - 09:21 AM

i was thinking about doing a guide on how to replace the "duty c" or clutch transfer valve ( i think its called). this is on a 95 legacy wagon.

well first you are gunna need parts and tools.
1. aa0061 transfer valve assy. picked up @ dealer for $127
2. the 2 gaskets that go with it. $4 a piece
3. tailshaft housing gasket. $8
4. Basic mechanics toolset
5. pb blaster (recommended!)
6. hammer ( i used framing hammer)
7. lube of some sort ( i used pb blaster silicon lube)
8. anti-sieze $5 i think
9. drain pan
10. a lift or jackstands or wheel ramps like i used.
11. jack ( if using jackstands or wheel ramps)
12. patience!!!!

1st i laid out a giant tarp so as not to leave a oil spot on grams driveway.
then i lined up wheel ramps and backed the car up them. you can drive up forwards if u want but i chose to back up it.

1st thing to remove: exhaust system. you can get it off in one piece with a helper. they are just needed to help move it once disconnected. first i sprayed the rubber exhaust hangers with silicon spray lube. then used adjustable pliers to slip them partially off (so they are 90% off but still supporting it a lil bit) theres 4 of them ( 2 on the muffler, 1 behind the muffler, and one a lil further towards the front of the car) Then i unbolted the transmission mount exhaust hanger (1 bolt) may have to pb blaster it). !!LEAVE IT ON THE HANGER!! itll help later and may prevent damage to header bolts! Now unhook both o2 sensors. (located on top of the catalytic converters. One harness under the car by the side of transmission. One under the hood behind the engine. Next Remove exhaust flange bolts on head ( 6 bolts 3 on each side) **be very careful not to snap off the bolts here as they ARE going to be rusty***PB BLASTER*** i didnt have to use blaster on this car but ive snapped them off before! Not hard to do! Once all bolts are out make sure the headers are free from the engine.

Then go back to the rubber mounts and remove them all the way ( support the pipe so it doesnt hit you on the way down) Its pretty heavy! Once its dismounted from hangers go back to the transmission mounted hanger and push it upward and off that hanger and let it rest on the ground. The total exhaust system should be off the car now and lying on the ground. pull it out from under the car and move it to the side.


Next to remove is the heatshield located below the driveshaft. Should be 4 bolts and two nuts. I used a wrench and a hammer to help tap them loose. this one is pretty straight forward. Just take off the nuts and bolts and put it to the side.


now its gunna get a lil more difficult if your using wheel ramps like i did. Time to remove the driveshaft! Use this @ your own risk! i did it this way cuz the ramps is all i had and i was already way to far in to stop. First chuck the front tires!!!! Just in case! What i did was remove the 2 bolts you can get to easily from the driveshaft. i used a hammer and wrench to break them free. Then i put a jack by the pass. side back tire and jacked the car up just enough so the tire was not touching the ramp anymore. Get in the car and turn the key to "on" dont start. Then hold the brake and put it in neutral. release brake slowly to make sure it doesnt roll. its ok if it does but make sure the front wheels are chucked!!!! Now the dangerous part: get under the car and spin the driveshaft til you can get to the other 2 bolts.( bout half a turn). Put the car in park, pull the ebrake, and remove keys. Also let the jack down! You will need it for the next step.

Remove the other 2 bolts the same as you did the first 2. Then remove the 2 bolts holdin the center support. Support the shaft!!! it will hit you if you dont. Once those two bolts are out, Slide the driveshaft towards the back of the car GENTLY. You will see it slide out of the tailshaft housing.


ok now that thats done..... NEXT!

Now what i did was use a jack to support the tranny under the transmission oil pan. use a block of wood between the jack and the pan so you dont damage it. YOU NEED TO SUPPORT THE TRANSMISSION!

Unbolt the mounts from either the transmission or from the bottom of the crossmember ( either way its 4 bolts) .....if you choose the crossmember...now would be a good time to use **PB BLASTER** i broke off two bolts not using it. they break off super easy! Once those bolts are off, start removing the 6 bolts ( 3 on each side) from the crossmember. Once thats off put to the side out of your way.

Transmission mount broken bolts... DONT DO THIS! lol it costs more!

crossmember out

OK now before we go any further..... remove the speed sensor! It has one bolt and its the only thing with a wire going to it in the tailshaft housing!

Now that thats out lets remove the tailshaft housing. ( the hard part) . There should be 11 bolts. break them all free first. Again i used a hammer and wrench to aid this. i lowered the jack a little bit so i could reach the 2 on the top. ( theyre a pita!) also i removed the two bolts holding the shifter linkage in place. ( again be careful they do get rusty) now the linkage moves out of your way to get a ratchet up to the top bolts. Its a pain but have patience!

Next if it is stuck as bad as mine was. i used a 1/4'' extension and put it on the guide pins and smacked it with a hammer just to break it free. ( NOT HARD) you can and will knock the pins out of the case. They will move a little bit when you hit them though. Thats ok. Then i took a small piece of 2 x 4 and beat on each side of the housing with a hammer. keep workin @ it til you start seeing transmission fluid start to form @ the bottom. If you cant get it that far then you can try what i did but be VERY careful. i DONT recommend this. Take a 3 inch wide chisel and put it inbetween the tranny and the housing and smack it on both sides of the housing just to split the gasket a little bit. It may take a little while to get this housing off so be patient!

Once you start seeing Fluid come out the bottom 3 bolt holes you should be able to fit a small prybar in where you had the chisel and LIGHTLY tap it between the tranny and housing till it sinks in bout an inch or two. wiggle it back and forth til the whole case breaks free from the transmission. When i did this i didnt score the gasket area and i considered myself lucky! When its ready to slide off. slide it off and disconnect the wire for the valve. should be an orange harness.

tailshaft housing.

transmission without housing

Next clean the gasket area on the housing before you put the new transfer valve in. take out the old transfer valve ( 4 bolts and a small pipe which comes out with a little persuasion) and clean the case where it was mounted. also clean the plate between the valve and case. install New valve assembly. it goes on like this. Gasket,plate,gasket, valve assembly. make sure you connect ground wire to a bolt. also remember to connect small pipe back to the center hole on it.

Now Put the new gasket on the transmission guide pins. hook up the solenoid wire and slide the housing back on. MAKE SURE YOU DONT PINCH THE WIRES WHEN BOLTING THE HOUSING BACK ON!!!! Torque the bolts to about 22 ft lbs.

everything goes on the way it came off.... in this order ( in case you forgot)

Transmission housing, Speed sensor, Shifter linkage, Transmission mounts, crossmember, driveshaft, heat shield, exhaust, use anti sieze for exhaust bolts on head and on tranny mount exhaust hanger. reverse removal procedure on exhaust for ease of installation.

i pulled the car off the ramps before adding tranny fluid so i could get an accurate reading. when i first started the car i still had the light blink but thats because there wasnt any fluid in it yet. i started off with 2 quarts then drove around the block and topped off once it was operating temp.

i left plywood under transmission over night to check for leaks. no leaks as of yet. did this last night. ......while i was under there i noticed my next repair....

Can you spot it?


maybe ill make a thread on that repair too when i do it. hopefully this will get stickied seeing as how ALOT of people have to do this and no one has done this tutorial yet. (if anybody has done this tutorial sry for not seeing it)


Edited by 95legwagon, 14 August 2011 - 05:55 PM.
fix pics

#2 95legwagon


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Posted 17 July 2011 - 10:20 AM

if i missed anything or anybody has any other tips.... feel free to say something! ill add it to the guide if needed!

#3 SubaruFred


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Posted 17 July 2011 - 11:14 AM

Thanks for the guide! Your pics aren't showing up.

#4 95legwagon


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Posted 17 July 2011 - 11:52 AM

yea i just noticed that! idk y though..... i used tinypic.com... and if you right click on them and open in new tab they come right up..... im having problems with the shifter linkage now though....cant figure it out though......cant drive the car now! it rolls bout half a foot then stops dead....cant drive even hittin the gas a lil bit! r and d are the same. put it in 2wd same til i put it on a jack and tested it. now i can drive it....but no park! ugh ill never mess with the linkage again!...... everyone disregard the unbolting of the shifter linkage unless you want problems afterwards! it worked fine goin around the block and going to dd this am then BAM! stopped workin.....strange!

#5 idosubaru


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Posted 17 July 2011 - 12:41 PM

i've always thought the hard part is all the bits that fall out/off when you remove the tailhousing. i can't even recall what they are or how to describe them but there are a few that come off and aren't in-your-face-obvious as to how it goes back together. a picture of that would make this job very straightforward.

good luck with your linkage issue, that sounds annoying. might want to start a separate thread for the shift linkage issue?

#6 95legwagon


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Posted 17 July 2011 - 01:37 PM

i never had anything fall out at all.....the only thiing that came off was the tailshaft housing everything else stayed together!....i was surprised cuz ive read that stuff falls out while in the removal process..... i think the parking pawl came disconnected from the linkage and was engaged while in drive or rev. i jacked up the pass side and dropped it in 2wd and put it in drive and the tire spun freely forward then in rev...... drives fine now just i have no park at all.... finally i get to use the ebrake! lmao! well its gunna stay like this til i get up the patience to tear it all down again..... thanks!

#7 idosubaru


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Posted 17 July 2011 - 03:24 PM

oh wow that stinks. i was kind of thinking that was what was happening but it's been awhile and i've lost sight of the innards on those things.

#8 95legwagon


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Posted 18 July 2011 - 07:41 PM

well ive definitly figured out that thats what it was! now if i take a left turn pretty sharp and at a decent speed i can hear the pawl hittin a lil bit and i can feel it in the shifter but it stops once the turn is completed so i just hope it doesnt engage @ a stop light! lol that would suck!

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