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1988 Subaru Conversion A/C removal


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11 replies to this topic

#1 mr.radon

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Posted 10 March 2004 - 02:20 PM

Well into the conversion now. Located a 5spd D/R to replace my 3AT. To loose some weight and free up some parasitic load off the engine I removed all the engine compartment A/C parts.
Questions:
Cars that came out of the factory without A/C was there just one belt?
If so can someone post a picture of the setup?
I looked at the junk yard but didn't see any without A/C so a picture would help. If it is a one belt system I think I just might put new pullys on my car to loose the extra weight of the double pullys I now have. I'd also like to see how they mounted the alt. It looks dumb hanging way outboard without the A/C compressor. I made a bracket to support the mount that bolted to the A/C compressor. I got to find a car without A/C and rip off that mount, picture would be helpful.
In place of a picture a link to a shop manual will be just as useful.

Thanks,
-When I'm done with this conversion I'll write up a do's and don't

#2 CIS Subaru

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Posted 11 March 2004 - 08:28 AM

Here's a pic from my CIS project. It shows a pretty good view of the non-A/C alternator bracket I used (painted black).

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#3 CIS Subaru

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Posted 11 March 2004 - 08:42 AM

As you can see, it's a two-piece bracket.

In this view:
Posted Image

you can see that the non-A/C setup used a double pulley on the alternator. If you run only one belt, and keep the belt-driven radiator fan, then you risk having the belt slip on the water pump pulley. Such slippage can easily lead to overheating.

Personally, I'm not overly pleased with the setup I have because it uses the alternator to tension both belts at the same time. It is therefore impossible to get them equally tensioned.

Another tip for A/C removal:
Pull the evaporator core out from under your dash. You can either replace it with the piece used in non-A/C cars, or you can just remove it from its housing, plug off the holes that the lines ran through, and re-install just the housing.

When I did this, I found that my evaporator core was largely plugged up with dirt. Eliminating it has increased the airflow through my heater dramatically. I no longer freeze in the winter, and actually get enough airflow to help cool me in the summer.

#4 mr.radon

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Posted 11 March 2004 - 11:43 AM

Thanks for the pictures. I looked in my owners manual and it showed a picture of the non-A/C routing. What I had suspected. I will run with two belts, even though the mentioned tensioning issues. I'll have to look for a non-A/C Subaru to salvage this part. I dislike my current set-up. Since I'm heading into the dash to install my XM radio system I'll remove the extra A/C evaporatior.
I also found out in the owners manual that two different types of A/C comprssors were used. One mounted inboard of the alternator, the other outboard. Interesting.
I've got an update on my 3At - 5SPD D/R conversion....

BTW that is one clean engine, I take it you just rebuilt it? Sweet.:)

#5 CIS Subaru

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Posted 11 March 2004 - 04:28 PM

Yeah, it was a real beauty. It has become pretty filthy lately, so I need to get back in there and scrub some more. I hadn't exactly rebuilt it... just put different heads on it, and scrubbed alot with Purple Power degreaser. I hate working with dirty parts.

#6 All_talk

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Posted 11 March 2004 - 05:27 PM

On the belt tension issue, you should buy the belts in "matched sets" (same batch), but even with unmatched belts you can normally get the larger belt tight enough without the smaller one being to tight. The double belt set up is really necessary because of the minimal wrap on the pulleys but it also comes in very handy when you loose one on the road, twice now I've made it home on one belt.

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#7 archemitis

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Posted 11 March 2004 - 09:13 PM

you can use the same brackets you have, and just get a belt that fits, there is some honda v belt that is perfect. or just measure it with string, i have no ac, or powersteering. the top alt bracket will seem kinda wierd just being held by one bolt, but it has worked for hunderds of miles for me. ditch that powersteering too.:brow:

#8 mr.radon

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Posted 12 March 2004 - 11:32 AM

Interested.
Do you just plug the hydrolic oil ports or do you swap out the steering gear?

#9 CIS Subaru

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Posted 12 March 2004 - 02:04 PM

I would think you'd want to swap steering gears!
Steering a non-powered PS car is much harder than steering a non-PS car.

#10 mr.radon

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Posted 12 March 2004 - 02:15 PM

I'm leaving the power steering in. I don't have the time to look for a non-powered steering gear. Anyone know how common non-PS cars were? With everything out of the engine compartment it would be easy to replace.
The valve covers gaskets were hard as rock and crumbled as I removed them. The ventilation hoses to the heads are also in need of replacement. Is there an off the shelf substitute? Or do I have to go to a Subaru dealer?

Also, did the non-A/C cars come with a two belt alternator pully instead of a one belt?

#11 CIS Subaru

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Posted 12 March 2004 - 02:30 PM

Yes, non-A/C cars had a dual pulley on the alternator. You can just swap pulleys... the alt. is the same.

From what I've seen, the non-PS EA82 cars are rare. I think PS was standard on most GL models, and I see it on alot of DLs too.

If you're talking about the PCV hoses, you should be able to find suitable replacements at any parts store.

#12 mr.radon

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Posted 12 March 2004 - 02:44 PM

I noticed that the steering wheel was real easy to turn with the car off. I was pushing the car back and forth to get it into position before I lifted it. It seemed like there was really very little turning resistance normal with power steering units. Anybody just install a bypass loop in the power steering unit and use it as a manual? What would the harm be? I can't see any negatives, then I can run a single belt. The owner manual shows this installation.




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