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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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Clutch Pedal Sticking To Floor. Clutch Re. 45 K Ago


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5 replies to this topic

#1 roadsubiedog

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Posted 22 July 2011 - 09:14 AM

yesterday pedal stuck to floor. I played with it and then it would work about 5- 6 times and then stick again. when engine off the pedal works normally . it goes into gears smoothly both on and off.

only indication of problrm was a week ago when it started chattering a little on take off.

the cltch was replaced 45k miles ago when i did the head gaskets.

what do you think the problem is? the haynes manual suggests about a dozen problems but i was wondering if anyone here can give me a more likely problem.

i also seen on the repair manual section that a USMB posted a procedure that you can access the clutch and parts without removing the tranny. would that possibly apply in this case?

thanks in advance.

#2 forester2002s

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Posted 22 July 2011 - 10:23 AM

Replace Slave-cylinder?

#3 Durania

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Posted 22 July 2011 - 01:30 PM

Agreed. Your slave cylinder needs to be replaced. It is not included in a standard clutch replacement job.

#4 Rpm90001

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Posted 22 July 2011 - 02:16 PM

I'm going through almost the same thing. I don't know what year yours is...but here is a TSB I found while looking into my issue.


Clutch cylinder

Clutch Slave Cylinder TSB

NUMBER: 03-52-03R
DATE: 07/15/03

APPLICABILITY:
1995-2002MY Legacy;
1997-2003MY 2.5L Impreza; and
1998-2003MY Forester Vehicles.
All models have Manual Transmission.

SUBJECT:
Clutch Pedal Sticking (revised)

INTRODUCTION

In the event you encounter a customer complaint of the clutch pedal
not returning completely after being engaged, or has a spongy pedal
feel or a light feel in the shifting pedal while shifting, the
following repair method should be followed. This condition may affect
certain manual transmission vehicles with a hydraulic clutch system
under certain weather conditions.

PROCEDURE

To correct this condition you must replace the parts in the chart that
match your vehicle using the following procedure:

For Natural Aspiration models with hydraulic clutches

1) Remove the intake chamber from the backside of the intake manifold.

2) Remove the clutch hose and the clutch operating cylinder in this
procedure it is not necessary to remove the master cylinder, the
clutch pipe and bracket.

3) Replace the clutch hose and the clutch operating cylinder with new
parts as listed in the chart. Note that two pieces of gasket (P/N
114130151) used on the connector of the operating cylinder must be
replaced with new ones when replacing the clutch hose. Tightening
torque of the bolt is: 37 +/- 3 Nm (3.8 +/- 0.3 kgm) or 27 +/- 2 ft.
lbs.

4) Bolt the operating cylinder onto the transmission.

5) Add brake fluid.

6) Bleed the air from the system.

7) Install the intake chamber.

8) Check the following items:

a) Insure there is no leakage from the line, check whether fluid
leakage occurs after the clutch pedal has been fully depressed.

B) Check whether the clutch performs normally.



For Turbo models

1) Remove the intercooler.

2) Remove the dutch operating cylinder hose. In this procedure, the
clutch master cylinder, clutch pipe and bracket are unnecessary to be
removed.

3) Replace the clutch hose that was removed with the new one listed in
the chart. Note that two pieces of gasket (P/N 114130151) used on the
connector of the operating cylinder must be replaced with new ones
when replacing the clutch hose. Tightening torque of the bolt is: 37
+/- 3 Nm (3.8 +/- 0.3 kgm) or 27 +/- 2 ft.lbs.

4) Add brake fluid.

5) Bleed the air from the system.

6) Install the intercooler.

7) Check the following items:

a) Insure there is no leakage from the line, check whether fluid
leakage occurs after the clutch pedal has been fully depressed.



B) Check whether the clutch performs normally.

This change was incorporated in production after the VIN numbers shown.

#5 roadsubiedog

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Posted 22 July 2011 - 07:10 PM

the hose has a pin hole in it. and no fluid in the master res. i had to take the hose and the metal line to the master off bc the 10mm fitting on the inside is frozen solid.

i tried almost everything including heat.

if i get it apart i might just replace the hose and go from there.

thanks

#6 roadsubiedog

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Posted 23 July 2011 - 07:54 PM

went to pick npull and of course they didn'thave any 99's or subies with 2.5 motors.

but i took the front brake line off a 94 mazda, only an inch longer than my clutch hose.

worked great . not bad for 4 dollars and change and sweat and a bruised knuckle.




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