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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

Photo
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My 1998 Outback


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100 replies to this topic

#1 SubaruJawn

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Posted 01 August 2011 - 07:08 AM

just picked up a 1998 Legacy Outback

AWD 5 Speed Wagon

Many new parts including headgaskets.

wanted $1,400 down to $800 and i got him down to $600
he agreed to the $600 after he found a van he wanted for $500

so here are some pictures:
Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image

Only thing thats suppose to be wrong with it the timing is incorrect, he said the guy who did it didnt even line up the marks.

if im lucky all i have to do is do the timing. if no bent valves ect...

#2 sosubeme

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Posted 01 August 2011 - 10:29 AM

:clap: Nice find mon! Will keep fingers crossed for ya.:)

#3 Rooster2

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Posted 01 August 2011 - 03:54 PM

If it runs, then the timing can't be that far off. Looks like it needs a rear light lens, and a front fog light. Must have been parked by ear. Hear a noise, then time to stop. Good find for $600.

#4 SubaruJawn

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Posted 01 August 2011 - 04:42 PM

it does not run,

i have taken it apart and the timing is way off. had to turn the crank quarter of a turn and the right side pulleys were off about half

i now have the timing correct, at least i hope so.

yes it needs right rear taillight and needs both Fog Lights also power window switch for driver's door.


i have only 3 months to get it ready for winter. as this is my winter beater. :banana:
for $600 i knew i couldn't lose. ;)

Parts he said are new and i have confirmed
Water Pump
Timing Belt
Timing Tensioner
all 4 Rotors
all 8 brake Pads

Edited by SubaruJawn, 01 August 2011 - 04:46 PM.


#5 rpholz

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Posted 01 August 2011 - 06:37 PM

Since its only your winter beater I will trade you my 96 hood for your 98:grin:

#6 SubaruJawn

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Posted 02 August 2011 - 07:00 AM

update video



#7 sosubeme

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Posted 02 August 2011 - 08:11 AM

Well done Dr J! Exhaust leak or CEL up next for an Rx? Cheers!

#8 Rooster2

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Posted 02 August 2011 - 08:25 AM

update video


Watched your video........glad to see you got the timing correct, and now the motor runs. You are on the way to putting this car back on the road. Way to go.

There is a thread somewhere describing how to replace broken driving lights with low beam sealed beam round head lights that cars used back in the 60's. Size wise the sealed beams are a perfect replacement size. Cost is cheap.

#9 SubaruJawn

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Posted 02 August 2011 - 09:10 AM

really all i have to do is get plates and ad it on insurance.
the inspection runs out 2/12 so i'm pretty much good all winter.

i need money to finish it and get new plates. I'm in no hurry to get it on the road.

as for the fog lights i might replace them with oem. i really don't need them though. i will however replace the right rear taillight.

I'll be going over the car today to find as many problems as i can.

EDIT:

Broken that needs fixed

Fog Lights aka Bling Lights
Head Light Clarity
Tires
Power Windows Switch (driver's)
Temp Sensor
Right Rear Taillight
Check Engine Light
Exhaust Leak
Alarm System (no remote, had to disable)
Battery
Cup Holder
Air Conditioning

Top Priority Repairs:
Tires
Temp Sensor
Rear Taillight
Exhaust Leak

Edited by SubaruJawn, 02 August 2011 - 11:29 AM.


#10 jarl

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Posted 03 August 2011 - 12:35 AM

It looks great... you lucky bastard :D

My approach to cars is to assume them as a gamble... On most of the purchases I have made in the last 10 years I have done a good deal because something simple was broken on the car... Large discounts because of a non-working power window (pinched wire), or a dirt-cheap Saturn with a bad clutch (that ended up being an incorrectly purged hydraulic clutch... about $6 in repairs).

Alas... my bet on an OBW wasn't that successful. I may end up with a very nice car for a price somewhat below to similar cars around here (3~4K for a late '90s/early '00s soobie), but the bliss is fading :( Oh well...

#11 Rooster2

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Posted 03 August 2011 - 09:59 AM

It looks great... you lucky bastard :D

My approach to cars is to assume them as a gamble... On most of the purchases I have made in the last 10 years I have done a good deal because something simple was broken on the car... Large discounts because of a non-working power window (pinched wire), or a dirt-cheap Saturn with a bad clutch (that ended up being an incorrectly purged hydraulic clutch... about $6 in repairs).

Alas... my bet on an OBW wasn't that successful. I may end up with a very nice car for a price somewhat below to similar cars around here (3~4K for a late '90s/early '00s soobie), but the bliss is fading :( Oh well...




I own both a 98 and 99 OB wagons, and do most of the maintenance work needed on both of them, so I know exactly what your car is. Maybe my repair experience can help you.

A/C.........if leaking 134a refrigerant, replace the O rings on both the high and low ports at the compressor. That's where the refrigerant typically leaks out. That is very ez to do. Replacement O rings available at Auto Zone and other parts stores.

Both my OBWs developed exhaust leaks at the resonator. It doesn't seem like coincidence that both my cars had exhaust problems at the resonator. I am thinking that is a weak spot in the exhaust system. Maybe it is where your car exhaust is leaking as well. I went to a cut/bend/weld muffler shop, where they cut out the resonator only, and replaced with a welded in length of pipe. This fixed the problem perfectly for about $50. This did not make the exhaust sound louder, which surprised me. Car sound perfectly stock.

I think Autozone sells replacement key fobs, prolly other parts stores do as well. So, you may be able to bring the security system and fob door lock system back to life. Somehow, they are able to match a fob code sender signal to the car security system receiver frequency. don't know the cost.

Other small stuff like tail light lens etc, can be bought on the cheap at a wrecking yard. You prolly already know this.

Prolly worthwhile to check the brake pads, and replace if necessary. Also, bleed and replace the brake fluid. I bet the brake fluid in your car is the color of iced tea. I know on my car it was.

Rubbing compound, or tooth paste used with a wet paper towel can help clean the oxidization off the headlight lenses for brighter light on the road.

I recently bought tires, and increased the tire size from OEM size 205X70X15 to 215X70X15 for very little extra money. The tires don't rub. It increases lift by nearly an inch, and ride, handling, trany gearing seems better. It also puts a little more tread on the pavement. I recommend the larger tire size.

Still, at $600, you got a hell of a deal. With a little bit of time, effort, and love, you should be able to turn your 98 into a nice daily driver. I don't think cost will come close to $2K investment, if you do a lot of the work yourself. Just my 2 cents worth of advise and experience. I hope it helps. Keep us posted on your work........Rooster2

#12 SubaruJawn

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Posted 03 August 2011 - 01:44 PM

i don't know about the A/C, A/C condenser looks new. i pushed the tab and it hissed ever so lightly. it may just need recharged ?

--
Fixed: 8-3-11
Temp
Check Engine Light

Test ran, burped Radiator ect... Temperature is Good doesn't overheat. real test is on the road.

#13 SubaruJawn

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Posted 04 August 2011 - 05:20 PM

Cleaned the headlights today

Before:
Posted Image

After:
Posted Image

Posted Image

#14 Rooster2

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Posted 05 August 2011 - 10:01 AM

i don't know about the A/C, A/C condenser looks new. i pushed the tab and it hissed ever so lightly. it may just need recharged ?

--
Fixed: 8-3-11
Temp
Check Engine Light

Test ran, burped Radiator ect... Temperature is Good doesn't overheat. real test is on the road.


Yea, you are correct about "real test is on the road." A 2.5 Gen 1 motor with bad GHs will idle all day, and not over heat. However, run it at highway speed, or drive it up hills, and it will over heat rather quickly. I will keep my fingers crossed that your HGs are good.

Nice job of cleaning your headlight lenses. What product did you use??

#15 1-3-2-4

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Posted 05 August 2011 - 10:11 AM

Yea, you are correct about "real test is on the road." A 2.5 Gen 1 motor with bad GHs will idle all day, and not over heat. However, run it at highway speed, or drive it up hills, and it will over heat rather quickly. I will keep my fingers crossed that your HGs are good.

Nice job of cleaning your headlight lenses. What product did you use??


not true about the HG's I did a 667 mile trip on failing HG's with bubbles in the overflow tank and not once the whole trip did I overheat, and no I did not take out the thermostat.

What will overheat it is having the AC on because of all that extra hot air hitting the radiator will overheat it quicker then me just driving without the AC on.

#16 Rooster2

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Posted 05 August 2011 - 11:16 AM

not true about the HG's I did a 667 mile trip on failing HG's with bubbles in the overflow tank and not once the whole trip did I overheat, and no I did not take out the thermostat.

What will overheat it is having the AC on because of all that extra hot air hitting the radiator will overheat it quicker then me just driving without the AC on.


You are a brave man to have traveled 667 with known failing HG's...........or maybe you didn't have a choice, being 667 miles away from home, when you discovered the problem?

When my 2.2 blew a HG, it would over heat after about 5 minutes in simple city driving with the A/C off.

#17 1-3-2-4

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Posted 05 August 2011 - 11:22 AM

You are a brave man to have traveled 667 with known failing HG's...........or maybe you didn't have a choice, being 667 miles away from home, when you discovered the problem?

When my 2.2 blew a HG, it would over heat after about 5 minutes in simple city driving with the A/C off.


oh no I knew about the problem, I knew what would trigger it After I did the first 2 hours of driving I was pretty relaxed.

Right now all that's happening is the cylinder is over pressuring the cooling system which causes the radiator cap to open which then blows it all into the overflow tank.

I'm not sure which cylinder is causing it but I will know next week.. they look like the factory gaskets if you ask me.. I'm at 226K right now

#18 SubaruJawn

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Posted 05 August 2011 - 12:38 PM

did i mention it has new hg's? and they are the 3 layered ones.

#19 1-3-2-4

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Posted 05 August 2011 - 12:41 PM

did i mention it has new hg's? and they are the 3 layered ones.


Also known as the MLS layered steel.

#20 SubaruJawn

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Posted 05 August 2011 - 01:25 PM

Also known as the MLS layered steel.

right, i couldn't think of the name for them.

i got this outback without the remote alarm and i had to disable it by the fuse. couldn't i just go to the garage and get a new remote ? or do i have to deal without the remote and alarm ?

#21 1-3-2-4

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Posted 05 August 2011 - 01:31 PM

right, i couldn't think of the name for them.

i got this outback without the remote alarm and i had to disable it by the fuse. couldn't i just go to the garage and get a new remote ? or do i have to deal without the remote and alarm ?



You mean you have the keyless entry with factory alarm?

#22 SubaruJawn

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Posted 05 August 2011 - 01:33 PM

You mean you have the keyless entry with factory alarm?

yes.

#23 1-3-2-4

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Posted 05 August 2011 - 01:36 PM

yes.




Which one of the remotes do you have?

looks like this?

http://www.cars101.c...html#code alarm

#24 Rooster2

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Posted 05 August 2011 - 01:37 PM

oh no I knew about the problem, I knew what would trigger it After I did the first 2 hours of driving I was pretty relaxed.

Right now all that's happening is the cylinder is over pressuring the cooling system which causes the radiator cap to open which then blows it all into the overflow tank.

I'm not sure which cylinder is causing it but I will know next week.. they look like the factory gaskets if you ask me.. I'm at 226K right now


For what it is worth, I read somewhere, that a blown HG is usually on the driver side of the motor. If so, I wonder why?

#25 1-3-2-4

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Posted 05 August 2011 - 01:39 PM

For what it is worth, I read somewhere, that a blown HG is usually on the driver side of the motor. If so, I wonder why?


hmm interesting never heard of that before




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