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Projector lenses into GL/Loyale buckets


Turbone
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I just used the stock bulbs. Pulled the corner markers out, separated the wiring, and rewired it so the forward facing bulb was a dedicated turn signal, and the side facing bulb was dedicated parking light. The bulb was definitely lower wattage, as it made the system flash like a burned out but it was still plenty visible, and never got hassled by the jean d'armes about it. And then I had Fog/driving lights in the stock turn signal location....

PICT1765.jpg

 

Here's a write-up about converting the single-filament socket to a dual-filament socket for this exact purpose in a '80s Toyota. I bet it would work exactly the same in a subaru.

http://4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TurnSignal.shtml

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
back on topic of projectors into gl/loyale buckets.....

 

 

turbone, do you have any more pictures of the fitment of the projector into the back of the housing?

 

Agreed. I'm also very curious as to how the projector attaches to the bucket....

 

When i did my conversion, they gave me (3) rubber washer things and a plate with a nut on it (per projector). i took off the part that locks the old bulb in the bucket, Obviously it will differ from kit to kit. will get pics of mine, if you guys want to see.

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Please. I'm trying to visualize it in my head. Are the projectors small enough to fit through the original bulb hole and then something fastens them to the back?

 

My cars in the shop so will get pics as soon as possible, i found this pic its a little different than how mine are set up, but the metal housing (subaru) would sit between #35 and 41, Mine has 2 rubber washers (pretty thick) and #35 is one, and on the other side between the housing and #41 would have the other rubber washer thing. then theres a nut #42 and the rest of the stuff needed to hold the bulb.

 

hid-projector-parts-diagram.jpg

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Oh right duh. I keep forgetting the glass lens is off the housing for doing all this. I was thinking just the metal housing of the projector would be sticking through the back of the factory bucket. and the majority would be back behind it in the engine compartment.

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  • 1 month later...
My cars in the shop so will get pics as soon as possible, i found this pic its a little different than how mine are set up, but the metal housing (subaru) would sit between #35 and 41, Mine has 2 rubber washers (pretty thick) and #35 is one, and on the other side between the housing and #41 would have the other rubber washer thing. then theres a nut #42 and the rest of the stuff needed to hold the bulb.

 

hid-projector-parts-diagram.jpg

 

Okay thats the info I was looking for before diving into this project myself. zzz

 

did you have to do anything fancy behind the bulb as far as the adapter plate? or did you just clamp it down onto the OEM 'plate' ?

 

Also did you use a 35w or 50w kit?

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  • 3 months later...

Curious about the wattage of the kit as well, I assume the 50W would be better as my 55W HIDs were nicer than my 35W HIDs... but now one has burned out and I dont want to buy more... gonna get it done right now ;) Debating about picking up some more headlights or just using mine and hoping I dont crack it :rolleyes:

 

I found 9004 HID projectors... so they should be plug and play and then the careful sanding/polishing... correct?

 

Any benefit/disadvantage of sanding the entire lens? Obviously time consuming, but would it make it better?

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If you are running a loyale, SVX headlights can be used. They do take some modification but it has been done on here before. Tycho (I think thats his username) did it on a GL wagon back in the day. I remember seeing his car on the local ice track and I was shocked at how bright his headlights were, and the fact that he had 3 bulbs lit on each side of the car.

 

SVX light uses a projector lowbeam, a h4 fog light and then a reflected highbeam, so you could actually run triple HID setups on it. Xentecs are 35 bucks a pair, lifetime warranty. I've used them for a winter of -60F and had zero issues

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The light backing (I'm guessing this is the "buckets" you refer to) are metal in the US?

 

Been interested in doing somekind of light conversion (but more likely quad rounds) into the lights here, but our buckets are plastic. I'm not sure if this meant just starting with making some new fibreglass moulds or not.

This gives another option. But will have to be a lot more careful about separating the lens from the buckets.

 

Really curious about polishing the back of the lens tho. Can you give a bit more of a detailed description about how you used the drill press.

I've got many spare headlights here somehow, so not too worried about having some sacrificed ;)

Edited by wagonist
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I got the Morimoto H1 kit (with balists, lights, projectors, and harness) the problem with some of those other kits are that they don't have the right harness you would need (since the 9007 and 9004 use the same shape socket part). There is plenty of room infront of the lense to the factory glass( which is really good).

 

I also think there is a dl in the junk yard near me... a97b7f4c.jpg here's a pic are you talking about those rectangular ones?

 

That's an EA81 GL , not an EA82 DL.....

 

Those housings won't bolt up to an EA82 car.

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The light backing (I'm guessing this is the "buckets" you refer to) are metal in the US?

 

Been interested in doing somekind of light conversion (but more likely quad rounds) into the lights here, but our buckets are plastic. I'm not sure if this meant just starting with making some new fibreglass moulds or not.

This gives another option. But will have to be a lot more careful about separating the lens from the buckets.

 

Really curious about polishing the back of the lens tho. Can you give a bit more of a detailed description about how you used the drill press.

I've got many spare headlights here somehow, so not too worried about having some sacrificed ;)

 

I use a pad attachment from Griots for polishing glass. It hooks up to drills etc. You can also buy the pads from them, but they arent cheap.

I start with 3M 60grit sanding discs and work my way up to finer grit, Then I use a variety of compounds, ranging from rubbing compound

to glass polishing compound also from Griots. When you first start grinding the glass down you MUST wear a mask. Breathing in glass dust will cause irreparable damage to your lungs.

Polishing wont create dust as you add water to the compound while working.

http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/3+inch+glass+polish+pads.do?sortby=ourPicks&page=2

http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/glass+polish+8+ounces.do?sortby=ourPicks

 

Gloyale, the EA82 DL has the quad headlight setup, I think thats what Shorty might have been talking about.

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I'd obviously like to find a supplier closer to home :P

When you were trying to find that supplier, what were you asking of people? Or did you just do an internet search (the US is much more switched on with online shopping than we are... :( )

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I just started researching glass polishing. Considering you need to remove a lot of material at first, all the flutes and ribs in a 3-4in diameter, its a lengthy process.

You should be able to get 3M products in Oz or at least get them shipped from a lot of suppliers in the US.

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