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difficulty of lift installation
Posted 11 March 2004 - 09:53 AM
Posted 11 March 2004 - 10:09 AM
and you always can post questions here.....
Posted 11 March 2004 - 11:11 AM
The toughest part about the lifts that I've found is simply getting the bolts on the underside to let go when they have a whee bit of rust built up. The two on each side for the rear shocks can be a bitch too.
Be EXTRA careful not to crossthread bolts going back in. The front half often requires a buddy to pry one way or another with a bar on the suspensions to line it up for the new longer bolts.
Posted 11 March 2004 - 11:18 AM
(I also did the lift kit install with no engine in the car so that might have something to do with it.)
Don't do it if you don't have another vehicle to drive to town to get parts, tools, etc. An extra set of eyes was very helpful when doing the rear shocks on my wagon too.
Consider buying new struts and shocks if you haven't already...the lift kit install basically makes both of these replacments hardly any more work.
Posted 11 March 2004 - 11:24 AM
Definitely undo the tension on your torsion bar and unadjust your front struts down before hand.
Posted 11 March 2004 - 12:15 PM
Posted 11 March 2004 - 12:27 PM
Posted 11 March 2004 - 02:01 PM
Posted 11 March 2004 - 03:21 PM
Posted 11 March 2004 - 04:20 PM
Oh - and installing the steering linkage while the front cross-member is dropped makes it a lot easier. If you wait till it's back bolted up, then it's a tight fit.
I could do one in a full day by myself easy. It helps to have a hand now and then - for things like the steering linkage. You have to turn the wheel, and getting out from under the car each time is a pain. And help with the rear end is nice, as those parts are pretty heavy when your on your back, and trying to support them with one arm while attempting to thread a bolt into something....
Posted 11 March 2004 - 04:32 PM
Posted 11 March 2004 - 10:31 PM
good luck:argue: don't beat your self up to much:madder:
Posted 11 March 2004 - 11:19 PM
Originally posted by ru4x4ever
Also the clutch cable pulled down on the heater hose and blew so just be aware of all that cool stuff:D
That wouldn't have happened if the cable had been routed correctly. It should have been routed under the column and hoses. Very common mistake though. I have seen it done that way a couple dozen times at least.
Posted 11 March 2004 - 11:35 PM
#1: See image below:
I didnt know I had to beat that part of the fender in, and the car wouldnt steer right. It made a horrible popping noise when the strut would hit it. Wasnt hard to bend, and wont be the 1st body structure you'll need to modify.
#2: Test fit everything! And dont tighten all the bolts at 1st, make sure everything is straight then tighten the bolts.
#3: Pay attention to how your steering wheel is. When you remove the steering linkage, its not hard for the steering wheel to move. When I did my lift, i ended up driving my car for 6 months with the steering wheel upside down.
#4: PK Davis has everything coated. Which is great, makes it stronger, more durable, and rust proof. But it does add a degree of thickness to things. Keep that in mind if a bolt becomes stubborn, or when the steering extension doesnt want to attatch to the steering gearbox.
#5: Take your time. Might want to do the front 1st then the rear. If you run into any problems come to the board
Posted 11 March 2004 - 11:52 PM
He's very right about needing to beat on that spot on your tower.
Also. If you do get your steering wheel wrong, it's pretty easy to pull it off and re-align it.
Posted 12 March 2004 - 01:27 AM
Posted 13 March 2004 - 06:08 PM
Posted 16 March 2004 - 08:50 AM
Posted 16 March 2004 - 09:09 AM
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