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I am noobie Just brought this home tonight!


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237 replies to this topic

#76 moosens

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Posted 31 December 2011 - 09:47 AM

Nice effort !!

#77 Leeroy

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Posted 31 December 2011 - 09:49 AM

Great work! Quite amazing considering what you started with, at least from an Australian perspective. Most cars that far gone in Oz are usually scrapped.

#78 waldoz

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Posted 31 December 2011 - 12:15 PM

Well I have today and Monday to finish up so it going to be a mad dash to get it done. I have to coat the underside where the braces are and the indside of the braces. Then coat the inside. Then I have to grind some off and weld , then coat. This is the only way that all the surfaces get coated. :D

#79 waldoz

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Posted 01 January 2012 - 12:08 AM

Well not much going on but I tried to get more done but family calls. So spent most of the time fitting up bottom braces. Patched a lot of pin holes and welded up the braces.

Posted Image

Also Cleaned and painted the drivers side so the brace can be welded on Monday.:) This is not professional bodywork but its done. :lol: Happy NEW year!!:banana:

Posted Image

#80 talldude

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Posted 02 January 2012 - 11:36 AM

I am impressed with your intestinal fortitude. Keep up the good work. You know what they say: If it's easy it's not worth doing. You're prolonging the life of a truly cool rig. My hat is off.

#81 waldoz

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Posted 02 January 2012 - 07:31 PM

Mostly done I had to change a few plans but the seat rails are in and the hood hinges are welded up. Will post pictures later. There is a lot of clean up work to do but I have to take all the tools back to work mainly a full size bottle of 75/25 gas. :( Its done for now.:clap: Now going to spend time with the family before I have to get up for work tomorrow.:cool:

#82 waldoz

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Posted 02 January 2012 - 10:25 PM

Well here are some pictures:
Before hood hinge:
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After hood hinge:
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Then I thought heck might as well weld the other one up.
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Got the brace all welded in I think its off just a little but I can fix that. After the metal was bent a bit getting it out plus working with nothing after the rust bucket had to be rebuilt. It might be little high.
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I was going to paint the whole inside but I ran out of time so I just did the section under the seat mounts. So I tried to coat everything just to make sure.
That is one reason the braces look so bad under the car. They are coated on the inside though which should out last the Brat.
Drivers side:
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Pass side:
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I don't think it went too bad so far will have to address the rest of the cabin and paint it ect.

Its prob going to be a bit before I can post some more pics progress.

#83 biffanyus

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Posted 02 January 2012 - 10:28 PM

Looks great.... Awesome job!!!:burnout:

#84 waldoz

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Posted 03 January 2012 - 07:36 PM

Does anyone know how to take apart the seat rails? I think I need to rework mine little rusty. I need to add a new tab on one as its a little thin.:eek: I want to coat the whole thing too while I am at it or powder coat it. :clap:

#85 SUBARU3

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Posted 05 January 2012 - 01:45 AM

Yes...watching with total amazement!

#86 waldoz

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Posted 07 January 2012 - 04:25 PM

Well I have a small update. I also forgot to do before and after pictures of the rails. Three of the mounts had to be replaced on the rails. They were good but I felt better with some 12ga tabs on there instead. I just need to go get some new bolts washers ect. and mount them see how they do. Also need some lithium grease in a spray can as I hear that is the best. So I cleaned them up pressure washed them with hot water and then cleaned them with rubbing alcohol. Taped them with that 3m trim tape and spayed some VHT. I think they turned out decent but I will have to wait 7 days if I want to respray.
I also just found out I got some free time in the garage so back out to clean up the interior and maybe remove the dash. I called the "Just Dash" place and the said $800 to redo it. :banghead: Does anyone have a cap or a good replacement?:brow:

I noticed that the springs were in good looking order so I did not spray them. I like the detailed look it gives the sliders. :D
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This stuff is self etching and seems to be pretty good. I got it from a guy at work for $5 used. Its like 10 -15 a can. I used this on my gn Volvo for headers and block and worked pretty good but you need a lot of prep to make it stick.

Posted Image
All for now.

#87 waldoz

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Posted 07 January 2012 - 09:46 PM

Ok, times up. I tell you I don't know what they put in that window seam but it was like super glue. I have a mess to clean up inside anyways after I took the dash out. I might have to find another dash that is more solid. The good news is there is no giant holes in the firewall. The window sill is all good so that is one place it was not leaking. I had an offer for a window and now I will need it after I get the inside done. I am looking for a dash on the cheap side or try to fix what I got. Anyways prob going to wire wheel the inside and paint it. I do know that I need to get a bottle for the welder as I have some other small spots to take care of. I might end up doing that this next week. If I wait to use the one at work again I will not get anything moving along as I would like.

Widow seal is still sticking on :(
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You can still see some of the glass that is in there that windshield is heavy!

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I really don't like that tar stuff they put on it really sucks to take off. I do however have some good stuff to put back on that is really inexpensive. :)
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Prob going to strip the pedal assy down and paint that I will need to take pics of that thing before I tear into it.

#88 moosens

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Posted 08 January 2012 - 08:39 AM

Follow where that water came in from - thru the cowl , passenger side , and you'll probably see pinholes along a seam on the far right. Or worse. Obviously you're right there now. Subaru3 - Todd - is the best at describing where that water comes and goes.

Can you get a pic looking down thru the cowl area?

#89 1982gl4

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Posted 08 January 2012 - 10:51 AM

I called the "Just Dash" place and the said $800 to redo it. :banghead: Does anyone have a cap or a good replacement?:brow:


Finding a crack free dash, is going to be tough, I just recover mine myself in my ea81 wagon, it turned out pretty good, I don't know how it will hold up, but it was the best alternative considering there are non left where I live and I didn't want to spend the money to have it recovered.

Dash repair is in this thread.
http://www.ultimates...t=126022&page=6
And I used what's called flocking to cover it.
I got that here
http://www.donjer.com/

Good work with the welding, i just wrapped that end of it up on my wagon. I'll be keeping an eye on this build!

#90 waldoz

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Posted 08 January 2012 - 11:52 AM

I will have check it out. I have not really seen the pin holes but there is rut on the seams. If you have Ideas where to look let me know and I will take some picks.

#91 waldoz

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Posted 09 January 2012 - 12:09 AM

Follow where that water came in from - thru the cowl , passenger side , and you'll probably see pinholes along a seam on the far right. Or worse. Obviously you're right there now. Subaru3 - Todd - is the best at describing where that water comes and goes.

Can you get a pic looking down thru the cowl area?


I am trying to figure out how to fix what I got. There does not seem to be any holes just mostly surface rust. The way they set this up was just waiting to leak. :(

#92 waldoz

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Posted 09 January 2012 - 09:31 PM

Well took some pictures of the pile of Brat. I also went down and got some gas for the welder. $150 for small bottle. :banghead: prices have gone up for sure.

Here is the shot of the pillar and dash area I think you guys were talking about.
Posted Image
I call this the vent hole, at least I will be able to get in there.
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It looks pretty good here.
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So this is where the holes are. It does not seem too bad to fill or cut small area out.
Inside:
Posted Image
Outside:

Posted Image
Here is the vent cover its not as bad as it looks.
Back:
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Front:
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Here is the pedal set up, Its not bad either. That switch is there a replacement I can put in there? I have not taken it to work yet but will have to strip it down and coat it.


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Not much going on but I will prob replace the heater core while I have it out. It does not leak though.
Now it looks like mine has a valve. Where can I get one of those also?

I found one but does this look right?
http://www.ebay.com/...020696519750548

Edited by waldoz, 09 January 2012 - 09:37 PM.


#93 Leeroy

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Posted 10 January 2012 - 11:08 PM

So this is where the holes are. It does not seem too bad to fill or cut small area out.
Inside:
Posted Image
Outside:

Posted Image

Here is the pedal set up, Its not bad either. That switch is there a replacement I can put in there? I have not taken it to work yet but will have to strip it down and coat it.


Posted Image
Posted Image

Now it looks like mine has a valve. Where can I get one of those also?

I found one but does this look right?
http://www.ebay.com/...020696519750548



That is THE classic rust area for old Subies and the reason many went to the graveyard. With your skills probably not difficult to fix - just remember it is two pieces of metal not one.

The brake switch appears on eBay all the time so I doubt you will have trouble finding a new aftermarket one.

And the heater valve you have linked too should work fine too.

#94 waldoz

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Posted 11 January 2012 - 12:43 AM

Those holes I was hitting pretty hard with the screw driver. Most likely I will just fill it in after I cut or drill the bad stuff out. If you say its two pieces sandwiched together yeah not good design. I almost have the foot pedal assy stripped down going to paint that tomorrow along with few other small parts.

Glad to hear those parts are close at my finger tips. Trying to think of anything else that is hard to find so I can keep looking. :P

#95 talldude

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Posted 11 January 2012 - 11:04 PM

I just bought a couple of those same heater valves- they'll work fine.

#96 waldoz

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Posted 12 January 2012 - 12:08 AM

I will prob order one of those valves and a heater core.:banana: I like working heaters :P Parts little wet and I had to patch a pin hole in the vent cover but got them stripped as good as I could and got them painted. It was almost too cold so I turned the heater on in the garage.:grin: Will post some pics tomorrow. Also cleaned up all the glass from the dump of a windshield.:mad: Oh well prob going to start working on the interior this next week.

#97 waldoz

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Posted 12 January 2012 - 06:57 PM

Ok, Before and after pics..:headbang:


Pedal assy

Before:

Posted Image

Posted Image
After:

Posted Image

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Heater mount on the tunnel and vent cover on the firewall bulk head. I thought I took separate pictures but I guess not. OH well.:cool:

Before and After you get the idea.

Posted Image





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Posted Image
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Looking to focus on the dirty work of the wire wheel this next week. and fix them holes in the bulk head :Flame: :D Its getting there slowly :o

Posted Image
Posted Image

#98 waldoz

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Posted 14 January 2012 - 08:30 PM

Well, I got the whole inside wire wheeled and cleaned up. It was a real pain but I got it done. I have a few patches to make a few pin holes to hit. I think I am going to have to take the spare tire shelf off I don't know how I am going to do that as the drill will not fit. :confused: I plan to try and patch things up :lol: next week and hope to paint the cabin by the end of this month. At that point I will paint the steering column and mount every thing back in and clean the wires up. The dash still trying to figure out what to do with that. If I am lucky I will get the new windshield and gasket in by the end of next month.:banana:

Oh I also have a garden sprayer I am going to hack up so I can spray inside the pillars :grin: I hope it works.

#99 SUBARU3

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Posted 15 January 2012 - 07:40 AM

You have alot more energy than I do! That front end rust is very critical. Something was leaking majorly and soaked the insulation to be that bad! I monitor that area in my cars every few months, just in case something starts leaking and I don't know it.

You have lot's of seams and joints all over up front. Multiple layers and overlaps. One small rust thru and it starts the devious rusting process.

You seem like you are off to a good start. I am enjoying watching your progress!!:headbang:

I would seriously consider stripping that car and and sand blasting the rolling shell. They do that here for about $500.

#100 waldoz

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Posted 15 January 2012 - 10:32 AM

I think if I was deep into it I would. Its not a show car its prob going to be just a driver or 4 x 4 toy. I am going to clean and seal it up the best I can. I will prob re seam seal all the joints before I paint in the fire wall area. I would have to dip or take every panel apart to really get everything and I think the floor was broke me. :rolleyes: It should really be all down hill from now , the hardest part (pans) are done.:clap:




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