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Transmission reseal/ new bearing. With Pics!


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18 replies to this topic

#1 soobenthusiast

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Posted 27 August 2011 - 10:00 PM

I got the transmission pulled apart for the reseal, it was pretty easy overall. Right after it came out of the car we noticed that the input shaft was kinda loose, so of course that's the first thing I checked after it was apart.
Lo and Behold, one of the bearings was shot but not the front one, this one.
Posted Image

Where would I find one? Is this a Dealer-only item?


This whole reseal was prompted by the input shaft seal leaking terribly, and then I saw this.

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The seal is barely on the machined surface at all! If I push on the back of the shaft it looks like this.

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Then I looked at what pre-loaded that shaft in the case, and realized that it was this large piece in the back.

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And the other side of it had some wear, possibly causing a loss of shaft pre-load.

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There is a groove worn in this plate. The depth where the bearing rides is .023" thinner on one side than the other.

Once again, where would one source this part? Dealer-only?

So far I just know O'reilly's and Rockauto don't have these parts.

Edited by soobenthusiast, 27 August 2011 - 10:03 PM.


#2 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 28 August 2011 - 01:01 AM

All dealer only parts. Thats the most common bearing failure on the 5MT. The bearing is about $65 and you will need to replace that plate. As I recall there are 0, 1, and 2 variants of the plate - you have a 2 there so that's what you will replace it with. Get new seals for the input shaft, and both front axlr stubs.

GD

#3 Dirk

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Posted 28 August 2011 - 03:38 AM

Bookmarked.

Great pics thanks for the thread.

#4 soobenthusiast

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Posted 28 August 2011 - 01:37 PM

All dealer only parts. Thats the most common bearing failure on the 5MT. The bearing is about $65 and you will need to replace that plate. As I recall there are 0, 1, and 2 variants of the plate - you have a 2 there so that's what you will replace it with. Get new seals for the input shaft, and both front axlr stubs.

GD


Thank you GD, that's exactly what I needed to know!
It's also getting a new seal in the back where the shifter is.

Does that input seal look like it's riding in the right spot?

One other question: Unlike most 5-speeds this car has never had a spring detent from 3-4 to 1-2, just from 3-4 to 5-R has a spring detent. Where is the spring supposed to be for the 1-2 detent?

Bookmarked.

Great pics thanks for the thread.

Thank you Dirk, I'll try to get some more before I'm done; perhaps I can help add to the guide in the USRM.

#5 soobenthusiast

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Posted 28 August 2011 - 03:31 PM

I just wanted to add that our local dealer is painfully slow (2 weeks for shifter bushings); and the car really needs to be back on the road sooner than that.

Is there a good online source of parts, or some other way to get parts in a reasonable time?

#6 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 28 August 2011 - 07:18 PM

The part of the input seal that you are apparently concerned with is not the lip that creates the seal - that's just a dust gaurd for the real lip which is actually closer to the back of the seal and has a spring around it. You'll see when you get it off.

You can go with one of the online dealers like www.subarupartsforyou.com or www.1stsubaruparts.com, etc.

Make sure you are prepared to install that bearing - it will take a press or a three-jaw puller to remove it and then reinstallation can be done with a suitable driver tool.

GD

#7 soobenthusiast

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Posted 28 August 2011 - 08:23 PM

The part of the input seal that you are apparently concerned with is not the lip that creates the seal - that's just a dust gaurd for the real lip which is actually closer to the back of the seal and has a spring around it. You'll see when you get it off.

You can go with one of the online dealers like www.subarupartsforyou.com or www.1stsubaruparts.com, etc.

Make sure you are prepared to install that bearing - it will take a press or a three-jaw puller to remove it and then reinstallation can be done with a suitable driver tool.

GD


That's very helpful, thanks again GD! :banana:

I'll get some parts coming and update this as I go along.

#8 soobenthusiast

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Posted 29 August 2011 - 12:15 PM

Both of the dealers in OKC are having trouble finding parts, I pretty much have to already have the part numbers to be able to order from them. They said I could look at their diagrams, but that's an hours drive just to look at a picture and tell them what I need, and they can't email me the pictures either.

Could some of you kind folks recommend your local dealers that are familiar with EA-82's?
When we went to get shifter bushings for ours they looked like they'd never seen one before!

Is there a place with parts diagrams for the transmission?
Unfortunetely, both of the previously mentioned online parts places don't have what I need. :(

#9 soobenthusiast

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Posted 29 August 2011 - 09:56 PM

I spent most my time today sourcing parts, but I did get a little bit done.

The pilot bearing was crunchy and no doubt contributed to the other problems, so I pushed a new one in today.

Posted Image

Nice new bearing

Posted Image

#10 soobenthusiast

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Posted 30 August 2011 - 04:45 PM

I finally got parts ordered today! :banana:

The bearing was the most difficult part, first I had to figure out what it was. I pulled the bearing off so I could read the part number and then used google and Fleck bearing to see if I could find one that matched. The only useful thing I found was this: http://www.regal-var...k/KOYO AUTO.pdf
The second one down is the rear input shaft bearing; Koyo PN DAC2358NRC3. And only $30!! But they are in bulgaria.

I ended up calling West coast Subaru dealers to figure out what I needed.
To those of you in the Portland area, Eric at Wentworth Subaru is very helpful and seemed to know his stuff. As we are wanting to get these quickly he said it would be almost a week faster to have an OK dealer order it and just gave me the part numbers.

In short, we should have the parts on Friday! :banana:

#11 soobenthusiast

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Posted 06 September 2011 - 10:39 PM

The dealer finally got all the parts in, so I drove to OKC and got them today. Excited about finally having parts, some progress was made.

for those that care, here's the current Koyo P/N for the bearing. Subaru P/N 806223020. The ID is 23.5 mm, which is why Subaru dealers are pretty much the only ones with these bearings.

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As GD said, the plate in the rear comes in two sizes. the 5.00 mm plate is P/N 441347001, and the 5.13 mm plate is P/N 441347002.

The input shaft seal is Subaru P/N 806722050.


Here is the input shaft right after pressing on the bearing.

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I used a deep 15/16ths 12-point socket to press the bearing and 5th gear on.

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The nut on the back of the shaft has to be peened over to lock it in; (the dealer would probably tell you to buy a new one) I used a slightly thinner washer so I could peen a fresh section of the nut. This is a 27 mm nut.
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Cleaning parts and installing the axle seals.

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Next: clean case bolts and seal the cases together. What should I torque these to? I'm thinking 20 ft/lbs sounds about right...

#12 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 07 September 2011 - 03:58 AM

Nice.... work bench with "gutter" FTW. :)

I forgot to mention that the rear input shaft bearing's come in two flavors - a 7 ball bearing like you have there and a 10 ball-bearing that I've seen on the turbo's (at least the '96 JDM STi tranny I tore down was) They seem to be 100% interchangeable (used a 7 ball replacement on it) and one of the things I'm going to do is verify that my '91 SS tranny has the 10-ball unit and see if that part number is still available.... should have told you about that - sorry. :rolleyes:

In any case they seem to last a good 200k or so regardless.

Looks good.

GD

#13 soobenthusiast

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Posted 07 September 2011 - 11:25 PM

Ended up only torquing the cases to 17 ft/lbs, that felt like plenty.

How do I set the preload for the axles?

Something like going two or three notches past where there's no play?

#14 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 08 September 2011 - 12:00 AM

How do I set the preload for the axles?

Something like going two or three notches past where there's no play?


It's not a preload type of operation.....

I take it you didn't take note of where those bearing cup/seal rings were located and now you need to set them properly? :rolleyes:

This is not going to be pretty - you have to set your R&P lash all over again and then check your tooth contact pattern with prussian blue. This can be done by locking the pinion shaft to the lower shaft with a section of 1.5" radiator hose and some clamps - then you can insert a dial indicator through the drain plug hole and you will be able to measure the tooth lash between the R&P gears. IIRC it is supposed to be about .005" to .007". Once that is set you then have to do a contact pattern test with prussian blue to insure that you have the side-to-side adjustment correct......

This is the UGLY part of setting up a tranny with a new front diff - if you are careful this only has to be done on transmissions with radiacally different arrangments or one's that are getting a change of final drive ratio or different front diff. Usually you just put the bearing cup adjusters back where you found them and all is right with the world.

GD

#15 soobenthusiast

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Posted 08 September 2011 - 05:33 PM

Usually you just put the bearing cup adjusters back where you found them and all is right with the world.

GD


If I am correct that the bearing cup adjuster is the piece that the axle seal is in; the diff/stub axle bearing butts up against it. And it seems to screw in or out to set where the bearing race rides.

These were never messed with, never even took them out. When we put it together we noticed that the stub axles have some play in them. Is it okay if they are a little loose? Would turning those adjusters in tighten them to where they are supposed to be?

#16 Idasho

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Posted 13 September 2011 - 08:32 AM

If you did not touch them you are in luck.

But you will need to remove them to install new axles seals correctly.

Just scribe a mark on the nut and the case housing as a locator, and count the number of turns you back the nut off when removing it.

#17 soobenthusiast

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Posted 13 September 2011 - 09:28 AM

I got a little behind on pics and such, so here's the last batch.


I used Loctite 574 to seal the two halves together, because I had some left from a 914 motor project.

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This is the left side with the Loctite spread on it. Loctite 574 is an anaerobic sealer, it only hardens in tight clearances with a lack of oxygen. So there is no need to rush to assemble before it hardens; but whatever squishes out when the cases are torqued never dries, it just feels like orange grease.

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The tail-piece was sealed with Yamabond 5, another one of my favorite sealants.

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A spark plug with the hex part ground down worked perfectly as a clutch alignment tool.

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And while I was waiting on parts, some auxiliary lighting found it's way onto the car.

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As you can kind of see in some of the pictures, 5th gear was nicked up from the bad bearing, and not surprisingly there is now a quite noticeable whine in 5th. No big deal though, that was expected.

#18 ShawnW

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Posted 14 September 2011 - 01:30 PM

Might get you pulled over in places if those lights aren't covered. Check local laws. Also get cracked pretty easily too. They look cool though!

#19 soobenthusiast

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Posted 14 September 2011 - 07:24 PM

Might get you pulled over in places if those lights aren't covered. Check local laws. Also get cracked pretty easily too. They look cool though!


You got me wondering, so I looked it up. There are no laws about how many lights one can have, or whether they need to be covered. The only law is that only 4 lights can be on at a time. This is fine because the foglights are normally off. The driving lights in the center are wired to come on with the high-beams and have 100 watt bulbs, they make a HUGE difference at night.




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