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I bought this EA82
Posted 31 August 2011 - 12:44 AM
They told me it was marked to scrap
The body seems pretty clean with not much rust. It has 280,000mi which is pretty high.
I offered $200.They wouldnt go any lower so I ended up getting it for $383.83
oddly enough. Not the best deal but not bad.
Since it pours so much oil I figured ether stop every 2 blocks and pour a quart or two in it and make a 30 mile trail of oil!It would be easiest to tow it home.
Then I realized it has studded tires all around. If it was up to me it wouldnt matter but I can get a big ticket for that!
So I had to drive back to my place to get the wheels off the 81 gl Which is way out in the woods on rocky terrain. It was a pain it the rump roast! I finally got it sitting on some steel wheels on the "frame rails"with all tires of the ground.
I Trail 90'd two of em and carried the other 2 back to the car.
By the time I got back to the soob they closed the gates where it was at which kinda sucked, I was really looking forward to getting it home. I was able to get to the car by foot so I was able to swap tires. The ones I ended up using were 185/70-13 stock steelys on the front then aluminum alloys on the back. I then noticed the tires I put on the back are a bit taller and wider. To bad I forgot the size:rolleyes:
Is it fine to tow this thing with bigger tires on the rear?
A coupla pics of the car with studless tires.
Posted 31 August 2011 - 09:38 AM
Posted 31 August 2011 - 09:44 AM
You can even drive it with those tires, just dont drive it in 4WD.
Posted 31 August 2011 - 01:28 PM
Nice Rims has on the rear.
Posted 31 August 2011 - 04:59 PM
NO vacuum line to the EGR,, I noticed a few other open lines to.
Hill holder isnt hooked up at all.Wont that wear out the clutch faster because the hill holder acts like a return spring?
The first thing I wanted to do was throw out the ea82 for an EA81 but I kinda just spent most of my money so I cant really afford that at the moment.so for now I will try to get it to hold oil. It looks like its coming from the valve covers but I cant say for sure.
Do I need to pull the timing belt covers to get the valve covers off? It kinda looks that way.
Whats up with the seams? it looks like, Block, Head,[?], valve cover?
When I do the valve cover gaskets do I install it dry?
I need input! more input!(short circuit)
Just found out about a cam body. Is that a common place to leak oil from? possibly warpage
Edited by 81EA81, 31 August 2011 - 06:53 PM.
Posted 01 September 2011 - 02:25 PM
I just bought a 87 GL and the valve covers were leaking but not as bad as yours. My car has 112k on it and the gaskets were real hard and dry. I wanted to try synthetic oil to help with a lifter clatter I was periodically getting.
Anyways I replaced the gaskets, and No you don't have to pull the timing belt covers. The rear lower bolt on the drivers side is a little hard to get to but still doable. After completing the job my leaks are gone!
I hope you have similar success.
Posted 02 September 2011 - 11:50 AM
I was stoked when the old gaskets lifted right out, they where hard and brittle but came out it one piece! :banana:amazing compared to how the Brat went with the removal of the cork gaskets.
The passenger side gasket had maby 1/4 in of the material missing. Im guessing it dried out and shrank down.
I fired it up for maby 2 minutes to look for leaks. I saw NONE! lets hope it looks the same today!
Went from a steady stream to nothing!
I have to say It sounded more like the CLACK of death rather "tick".
I will add some seafoam to the oil today and hope it quites down a bit..
I have several questions but the excitment caused them to slip my mind!
Oh, I noticed the intake gasket looks messed up. Pic here
Looks smashed?any input?
Can a head gasket leak oil from the bottom side? There is a few spots where it looks like it has a small leak between the head and block.lets hope not.
Will an oil pump with a failed mickey mouse gasket leak externally?
It read maby 45 psi on the oil pressure gauge, That makes me think the oil pump is ok. Right?
I have a video from under the right head looking for leaks. I dont know how well the audio is but ill consider posting it if anyone wants to listen to the clack.
Im sure more questions to come
Thanks for the help:)
Posted 02 September 2011 - 02:53 PM
the engine idles at 2000 rpm and it wont kick down.
I looked for an idle adjust screw and saw 2 that could be it, I gave them a few quarter turns and it did not do much. I made sure to put them back to where they were so I wouldnt mess anything up.
I tried to research.all i found out was to let the engine warm up to temp and make sure there are no vac leaks.
What is the proper way to adjust idle?
Nevermind. the throttle cable was too tight. got it now
Edited by 81EA81, 02 September 2011 - 03:14 PM.
Posted 02 September 2011 - 04:49 PM
As for the oil pressure gauge. It's somewhat useless. They're extremely inaccurate. If it moves up and down with the RPMs, you're good... If you want real readings, get a real gauge.
Posted 03 September 2011 - 11:48 AM
I drove the car for a 3 mile trip and all seemed well beside the tick tick tick.
No radio to drown it out either:lol:
the lifters actually stopped ticking for maby 5 seconds or so....
oil presssure with revs. (Highest I hit was 3k)seemed plenty
Lots of oil cooking off the exhaust
It has an exhaust leak mid way in the pipe and the muffler is broke off just kinda hanging by the rubber mounts.
I will try to JB weld the mid leak today and hopefully find a cheap muffler.
I noticed both rack and pinion boots are toast:eek: Need to figure that out before too long.
More to come.Thanks
Posted 03 September 2011 - 12:02 PM
For this one you do have to remove the timing belt covers and belt or belts depending which side it's on, but the valve cover and everything else can stay in place. Actually, loosen the three bolts (10mm I think) on the timing belt pully/wheel. Use the belt to hold the thing in place while you loosen the screws. Then take the belt off, remove the wheel the rest of the way. You should then be able to remove the cover that the wheel is mounted on, and change the seal inside.
As Chilton's says, replace in the opposite order...and don't worry, the timing belts on this car are a cinch, a quick search through the forum should find a dozen threads on how to do it (it's a 30 minute job if you count the time it takes to drink a beer afterward).
Here's hoping it's this and not your headgasket.
Posted 04 September 2011 - 12:34 PM
I would like this car to be completely leak free.
I got the exhaust leak plugged at the mid point and had the old muffler hooked up using an old WD 40 can and a hose clamp. it was super quiet for a minute untill I hit some bad washboards on the dirt road.
I drove it for 35 miles yesterday evening and all seemed fine beside the occasional rattle of the muffler. the TOD pretty much quit!!!! It happens at idle now and then but it is wayyyyyyyyyyy quieter then the CLACK CLACK is was hearing before. I am honestly supprised that they quieted down like that
seeing it has 288,000 miles on it!! THATS DOUBLE THE BRATS MILEAGE!!
Its dripped maby 5 drops of oil since last night and its all coming from a low spot on the right side of the block. No pic. apparently my mom took both cameras:rolleyes:
There is a wet spot where the timing belt covers meet under the oil pump but I see no drips.
When I turn the key to the on position and the warning lights light up there should be a CEL too, RIGHT? Im not seeing any.
It looks like there could be one between the charge indicator and the EGR light.
Are the heater control buttons vacuum operated? it kinda sounds that way
and what the hell is BILEV?
Posted 05 September 2011 - 10:51 PM
I was on my way to apply for a position at a local lube center this morning and I decided to stop by Jack in the crack for some chow. I got my food and went to pull up to a parking stop in the near by wallmart parking lot. when i came to a stop the car started idling ************ty. i shut it of for the time being so i could eat, when I finished i popped the hood and checked the oil just outta habit, then I checked the plug wires, all secure. I started it again and it fired up but is sounded like it was running on 2 cylinders. off went the disty cap to check for pitted/burnt contacts. looked ok but I took the sandpaper to it any way.
I fired it again, same deal. I left it running and pulled the plug wires one at a time to find dead cylinders. got shocked a coupla times:) if they are the same as ea81 then cylinders 1 and 3 were out.My thoughts for now are hopefully cap and rotor and plugs and wires are cause, or my pass side T belt snapped???? I didnt hear anything make a snap noise.
Anyway I got to tow a subaru again cause i didnt want to run it like it was.
I would run a compression test but I have no one help to crank it over or a way to hook up a remote switch.
more updates tomorow
Posted 06 September 2011 - 02:12 PM
I dont think anybody cares about another ea82 wagon but im posting anyway.
We're listening. Good luck, and let us know what you find out!
Posted 06 September 2011 - 04:54 PM
we're listening. good luck, and let us know what you find out!
Posted 06 September 2011 - 05:50 PM
We're listening. Good luck, and let us know what you find out!
Good luck and nice find! I am in the process of tearing down my ea82 to check the crank bearings. Fun project!
Posted 06 September 2011 - 08:45 PM
It still has the original front windshield in perfect shape, and it looks like a factory subaru sticker still on the drive shaft.
I know it means nothing without a pic.
Anyways I just did a compression test and it didnt look so good.
I started on cylinder 4 just cause it was hardest to reach
3: went to 90 in one stroke
Factory spec anyone?
So ZERO caused by an open valve from passenger side timing belt?
Also the spark plugs were a *************** to break loose. they were way too tight.
They all had some metallic "thread sealer"?? on them, Ill get a pic tomorow if not tonight.
I know I have a leaky intake manifold gasket putting a little bit of oil around the plug for cylinder 4. Im dreading pulling the intake but it will have to be done eventually.
It looks like I will be doing the Timing belts too.
It seems everything I have to remove to do both jobs will be one step away from pulling the engine
I think tonight I will pull the radiator and at least the outer timing covers, or maby I should wait until I get an opinion and I actually have all the parts I need.
Posted 06 September 2011 - 08:52 PM
Since the cyls on one side are low, timing belt could be an issue.
Before you condemn the cyl with zero pull the valve cover to make sure it isn't something stupid like a broken valve spring. Relatively easy fix compared to say, a bent/burned valve. Ringlands, etc.
Posted 06 September 2011 - 09:27 PM
************ it! Im going to start tearing in
Posted 06 September 2011 - 11:54 PM
Part # TCK299
Fel pro camshaft seals,$ 6.64
What do you think. WHATS THE BEST QUALITY BRAND?
What else beside oil pump gasket do I need while im at the timing belts?
Posted 07 September 2011 - 01:08 AM
ill post pics tomorow and hopefully be able to scrounge some money together for parts
Posted 07 September 2011 - 12:42 PM
She oughta run great once thats all replaced.
Posted 07 September 2011 - 12:47 PM
Mileage for proof.
Kinda crappy shot of the side.
and of course a pic of the Brat when wet
Why the hell did I buy another Subaru when I have that
Oh, do I need to pull the AC compressor off? How do I recover the Freon or what ever it may be?
Edited by 81EA81, 07 September 2011 - 12:51 PM.
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