81EA81 Posted September 7, 2011 Author Share Posted September 7, 2011 (edited) I just got of the phone with the local Subaru Dealer looking for prices. Water pump: $99.99 +$2 gaskets Oil pump$197.99 +$ 3.30 gaskets They had no "kit" for T-belts. $ 50 For EACH belt + $67 for one single pulley. Cam seals :$2.27 each. So I think Ill try to source a Gates T belt kit locally When it comes to the crank pulley can I just get it off with an electric impact? Then impact it back on? Do I need to replace the crank seal? How likely is it I can get away with just oil pump seals? Depends on pump? I might as well do the water pump seal. It looks like it will be 100 times easier to work without the Big clunky A/C compressor there. How do I make it safe to remove the lines? Im just trying to make sure I will have EVERYTHING and Know everything I need to do this job right the FIRST TIME Edited September 7, 2011 by 81EA81 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92_rugby_subie Posted September 8, 2011 Share Posted September 8, 2011 GD has a post recently about a DL pump that is only around $100 give/take for the pump, I cant remember which year it is though. I will do some searching and see if I can locate it for you but $200 is a bit much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92_rugby_subie Posted September 8, 2011 Share Posted September 8, 2011 You can get one much cheaper from the dealer if you buy one for a DL non-turbo (oil pressure switch instead of sending unit). I think I payed about $115 for the last one I bought. GD Im not sure if this will help you or not, but it might be worth seeing if it does change the price... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6 Star Posted September 8, 2011 Share Posted September 8, 2011 You don't have to go through the dealer... The water pump I bought for my ea81 was only 40$ at napa. I'm assuming that the ea82 should be in the same ball park. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81EA81 Posted September 8, 2011 Author Share Posted September 8, 2011 You don't have to go through the dealer...The water pump I bought for my ea81 was only 40$ at napa. I'm assuming that the ea82 should be in the same ball park. Yea,I know. I was just curious what OEM stuff would be. I ordered a Timing belt kit from the import experts. $68. Down side is waiting a week plus for it to arrive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81EA81 Posted September 9, 2011 Author Share Posted September 9, 2011 HELL YEA!!!! Apparently the Timing belt kit is already in Spokane!! To bad Im in an outlying area So Ill stop by napa and get a set of cam tower seals. Part # TCS45687 Should be about $10 And oil pump seals, 3 of em right? Why cant I find a part # for these seals Theirs no need to touch the main crank seal if it appears to seal,right? Then OEM waterpump gasket and OEM Thermostat and gasket and thats all right?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted September 9, 2011 Share Posted September 9, 2011 In most cases when the passenger side belt breaks, it is because one or more of the tensioners have failed. Would be a good idea to replace all of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81EA81 Posted September 9, 2011 Author Share Posted September 9, 2011 this is what I ordered. Should be 2 belts 2 tensioners and a pully for the drivers side belt. looking at a picture of the front of an ea82 it looks like there is 2 pulleys for JUST THE DRIVERS SIDE BELT. Is that right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted September 9, 2011 Share Posted September 9, 2011 Front main should be replaced while the belts are off. Rear main is the one to leave alone( espescially since it's only accessable with the engine out) Subaru dealer is gonna be the only place to get the oil pump seals. Sometimes you can find the Mickey Mouse gasket and o-ring aftermarket, but NOBODY has the pump seal except the dealer. IMO, replacing the Mickey and the O-ring is pointless if you don't seal the shaft of the pump. But you have to be careful removing the pulley and shaft. First remove the pump from the engine. Then clamp the rotor into a vice, using one of the old timing belts as a cushion. For the A/C pump..It doesn't NEED to come out to do this job, but if you want, unbolt the entire bracket from the engine, then simply flop the deal up and back away from the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81EA81 Posted September 9, 2011 Author Share Posted September 9, 2011 thanks to NAPA I have the mickey mouse gasket in hand. Its Altrom brand. I couldnt find the o-ring or the shaft seal. Do you happen to have a Part #? As for the front crank seal. Do I just pop it out, coat the new one in oil and pop it in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81EA81 Posted September 10, 2011 Author Share Posted September 10, 2011 (edited) I feel a bit weird being the only one posting over and over, but guess what? I have another question. I have the cam seals so I figure I can replace those now but in order to remove the cam sprocket I need the timing belt on to hold the cam in place.but the timing belt broke. I noticed when I had the valve cover off there was a flat spot on it to put a wrench on the cam to hold it place. is this my only option?maby im being to cautious but I dont want to bend the cam or anything stupid I got it. It worked fine. I came to the conclusion that I am thinking to hard about this and I need to use my self judgement and common sence. Edited September 10, 2011 by 81EA81 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81EA81 Posted November 16, 2011 Author Share Posted November 16, 2011 (edited) Dirty cam seals. no after pics finally oil pump seals Drove it about 10 miles and the lifters finally adjusted......for now Edited November 17, 2011 by 81EA81 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81EA81 Posted November 17, 2011 Author Share Posted November 17, 2011 Now I figured its time to tackle the messed up intake gasket. it has a severe air leak near a bolt. I started marking lines one at a time last night and made it this far Went out today and got the intake off, nice n dirty All the bolts came out easy except the front left side. the threads in the head seem fine but the bolt is stuck in the intake manifold. I haven't tried getting it out yet but my thoughts were wd-40 and maby heat? Im not to sure what to do with the intake surface of the head,it seems pretty pitted to me. I do have OEM gaskets for it so I hope it will seal ok. any tips? I bought the water pump bypass hose today and I will need new PCV hoses and valve, What else should be checked or replace, Beside a Weber:burnout: Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zukiru Posted November 17, 2011 Share Posted November 17, 2011 that's waht gaskets do man! they make up for the surfaces not being flush with each other. I can see you got it good and clean. get the intake side that clean and you'll be golden! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
man on the moon Posted November 17, 2011 Share Posted November 17, 2011 If it's really bad (the pitting) you can slather the gasket with a thin layer of RTV silicone (I used the gray) when you put it together. So far no leaks! Just be sure to let it cure before you turn her on, again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zukiru Posted November 17, 2011 Share Posted November 17, 2011 congrats on buying thati think u will enjoy with that raid Car Performance Chip did he by bug spray? I missed that part of the post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted November 17, 2011 Share Posted November 17, 2011 he's a spammer. Click that little exclaimation point to report. I'm sure a mod'll run across him sooner or later tho. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81EA81 Posted November 21, 2011 Author Share Posted November 21, 2011 I figured Id update. I chased the threads in the heads and cleaned all the surfaces and hooked everything back up. It all went together surprisingly easy. It seemed to burn antifreeze for maby 10 minutes. It runs much quieter now. Before the car bounced around at idle now its nice n smooth. Intake removal is really nothing to be afraid of. Right side intake Left side tried to clean up the top of the engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 Looking Good! You Run your EA82 without timing belts' covers, like it looks on the Last Picture? I've just taken off the ones on my BumbleBeast aswell... Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81EA81 Posted November 21, 2011 Author Share Posted November 21, 2011 Thanks and yes I do, I was very weary of it at first, But it makes it so much easier to work on without them. the only down side is the ease of spilling oil on the passenger side belt while maintaining your oil level. It scared me at first cause when I got the new belts it says if any oil or anti freeze comes into contact with the new belt no matter how quickly you wipe it away you should consider the belt garbage as the chemicals will start to break down the rubber. Ive spilt a few good splukes of oil on it and I wiped it away as soon as I could.If you look close enough at the last pic where the two timing belts meet at the crank you can see the difference in each other. the passengers side has lines in it and the drivers side doesn't. Oh well.If it breaks I run around with 2 spare belts anyway. as long as im not in a snow bank of something it should take about 15-20 minutes to change them both out. I kept the covers around just in case it didnt work out but its been close to 4,000miles and all seems well I love your BumbleBeast and good luck running coverless Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 ... I love your BumbleBeast and good luck running coverless Thank you, You're So Kind! Best Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81EA81 Posted July 22, 2012 Author Share Posted July 22, 2012 Wow, it has been awhile.This was kind of fun to read back through, I am such a worry wort. Better safe then sorry. Its funny I didnt know what Anti-Seize was. It seems I use it often now. The EA82 has treated me great. It has since easily passed 300,000 miles On occasion the car would leak a bit of anti freeze. I tightened the bypass hose atop the water pump. it seemed to help a for a month or two of light driving. But all in all the water pump needed to be replaced. Im so thankfull I left the timing belt covers off. Now if only I didnt have A/C that would of been a fast repair. I prepped the mount surface with either 220 or maby it was 400 grit paper. I used the supplied paper gasket with a bit of Grey RTV on each side. I did not want to use this method however it was that or nothing and it suprisingly did form a good seal. With oil changes every 3,000 miles there has been no ticks. I happen to enjoy the mechanics of an EA82. It really isnt too bad. Of course it still needs odds and ends but I am very happy with it. And It Dosent Leak ANYTHING!!! Thank you USMB!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted July 22, 2012 Share Posted July 22, 2012 Any issues with your T-belts? Last time you'd mentioned them, you'd done about 4k miles I believe without covers. I, too, have noticed how easy it is to drip oil on the belts when you're checking your oil level. I try to be very careful about it, but every now and then I still get a drop of oil on them, and I also read the same article you did about the belts and ANY contaminants making them basically garbage. I call the claims in that article garbage. 15,000k without covers now and plenty of drops of oil on the belt here and there, not to mention water from puddles and all sorts of stuff that most likely kicks up there while driving. Knock on wood, but my belts visually check out and they are nearing their scheduled replacement (12,000 left to get there) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81EA81 Posted July 23, 2012 Author Share Posted July 23, 2012 (edited) Ive had a few issues. all related to the drivers side tensioner. It has come loose allowing it to knock around a bit, but that was simply caused from me being too cautious and not tightening it down enough. Lucky for me I caught the problem while it was sitting at an idle.all I did was snug it up more and it has stayed put. That along with the intake bolts make me want to invest in a 1/4" drive torque wrench. However I noticed the passengers side belt has developed lines in it, I think it may be too tight but its been like that for about 15,000 miles. So ill let it be. I thought timing belt replacement intervals were every 60k? Edited July 23, 2012 by 81EA81 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81EA81 Posted July 23, 2012 Author Share Posted July 23, 2012 (edited) I feel bad for the car and what Ive aimed it at. Id bet the car had never gone off road in its 280,000miles until I got ahold of it.(damn kids) But if it were not for me and the USMB the car would have been junked for sure. I lost all the good pics from the snow but I found the 2 situations where Ive been stuck. and both times I made it out by my self. I drove right into this one at the ORV park. lots of digging but I was able to pull forward out of it. I lost my muffler on that too. http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa389/SUB_RU/FILE0261.jpg swampy grounds in the early spring. lesson learned. Dont bury your car to the frame! Im sure I trashed the wheel bearing from this. and what ever else water seeped into Edited July 23, 2012 by 81EA81 Half asleep text that dosent apply to anything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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