Edited by Scotty1419, 31 August 2011 - 05:56 PM.
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dash wiring harness problems
Posted 31 August 2011 - 03:19 PM
Posted 31 August 2011 - 03:58 PM
i'd start another thread to determine what is wrong with your engine first, then move on to catastrophic things once we've narrowed it down better.
if you end up needing to look into the wiring:
i would rather do the engine swap, it's easier. so switch jobs - you do the engine swap and have a mechanic do the dash pull and wiring trace!
Posted 31 August 2011 - 05:45 PM
I checked the wiring leading into my ecu and there was definetly work done there.. i counted about 8 wraps of electrical tape on different combinations of wires. some of the electrical tape was gray(factory?) and the rest was black electrical tape. now i know for a fact ive never been under there splicing together wires so it wasnt me.
My question is would a 98 legacy gt with a 95 legacy engine swap require wiring changes? because im assuming he must have had to rewire things when he did the swap and possibly messed up on something there. I noticed a few wires such as my cam and crank sensors not the same color as what my haynes manual says they should be
Edited by Scotty1419, 31 August 2011 - 05:47 PM.
Posted 31 August 2011 - 06:38 PM
My question is would a 98 legacy gt with a 95 legacy engine swap require wiring changes?
no, no re-wiring required.
because im assuming he must have had to rewire things when he did the swap and possibly messed up on something there.
i'm willing to bet on this as well. nothing is going to get the car to run right until this '' whatever'' is undone.
the wire colors under the electrical tape should be easy to figure out. but the connections should be soldered after you get them sorted out.
Posted 31 August 2011 - 06:54 PM
blk/red wire w gray lace spliced to 2 blk/red wires w gray lace
big red wire spliced to a little red wire w gray lace
blk/red spliced to gray
3 red gray laced spliced to 1 red gray lace
big blue/red spliced to little blue/red w gray lace
big gray and gray/red spliced to blk/red
big gray spliced to little white wire with gray lace
I also noticed that the cam and crank sensors had black and blue wires. and my wiring diagram says they should be blk/white
and my maf sensor has yel/blue w gray lace and a white and a pink w/ gray lace coming out of it and my book says it should have red/yel yel/blue and it says pink is for 1997 models only.
Im using the wiring diagram out of the haynes manual
Posted 31 August 2011 - 09:07 PM
Now... If you swapped the whole engine -including ENGINE harness-, you'll need the wire colors from the donor car schematics -they may have changed-. Do you know which car did the engine come from?
As for the tape color... I've never checked a Subaru harness under the dash, but I think the two different colors may be OEM. The splicing looks suspicious, but still some of it may be OEM (i.e. there's a red/black cable splice at the ECU according to the wiring diagram). Without knowing where where those cables it would be hard to know. Were all those splices you mention right at the ECU? Can you take a picture, or somehow identify the connector/pin number? (attached is the pin numbering for the B84 connector, which I think is the one going to the ECU in your car).
I don't know how accurate is the Haynes for the Subarus, but I have seen big discrepancies on the wiring for some other cars. You should try to get the FSM for your car and for the car where the engine came from.
EDIT: I just saw your previous post with the OBDII videos, but I can't see much. Is any of the sensors obviously way off? Also, which color is the connector at the ECU?
Edited by jarl, 31 August 2011 - 09:52 PM.
Posted 01 September 2011 - 08:20 AM
Posted 01 September 2011 - 09:09 AM
how many wires appear spliced/taped? do you have any idea why they did that?
the engine swap required no wiring at all. so whatever he did wasn't related to the engine swap....or shouldn't have been anyway.
misfire - have you considered the fuel injectors/supply? i had a really bad misfiring 2000 Forester last year. none of the standard things worked, swapping the entire intake manifold fixed it. not sure if that means fuel injectors or what but you might look into something like that?
Posted 01 September 2011 - 09:12 AM
Edited by Scotty1419, 01 September 2011 - 12:02 PM.
Posted 01 September 2011 - 09:54 AM
given the running issues and known previous wiring attempts i think a simple test might help:
test for continuity and resistance on the wires between the engine side harness and ECU connector. this should be relatively simple - both connectors can be gotten to in 15 minutes or less, so rig up a tester and see what you get. you could even start with the 8 wires you've already identified as being previously compromised...seems likely you'll find the issue there.
or like a hacked up radio job you could *guess* and just re-do those 8 splices. pull the tape, pull them apart, properly join them together again.
Posted 01 September 2011 - 12:06 PM
yep ive had the entire intake manifold swapped. Also i do know that my 6cd disc changer was put in. i dont know how much wiring that would have required but you would think that would all be behind the cd player and not the ecu? i counted about 8 splices all together, Im wondering though.. if its a wiring problem why did the car run fine the whole time i had it till i blew my engine then when he did the swap it it ran awesome for 6 months then all the sudden runs like ************
You have an email, Sir...
Now... if you say the car ran fine before and after the engine swap that's very interesting. As I said before, I would stop messing with the wiring before doing something you can't undo.
To answer your original question: the right way of finding what's wrong is following Gary's suggestion. Look at the diagram, identify which pin on the connector goes where, and measure continuity between the connector at the ECU and the one at the sensor.
Posted 07 September 2011 - 06:52 PM
Posted 07 September 2011 - 07:43 PM
I've driven on a dying alt till the bitter end trying to get home. And systems start just shutting down one by one like you described.
Posted 07 September 2011 - 08:27 PM
You may want to check as well any splice done to install the cd changer. Sometimes the plastic crimp-on splices end up cutting the cable, even partially. Add some vibration and you'll get a very hard to diagnose electrical problem
Next time the car start acting up, check to see if the cd changer (or something else for that matter) stops working. Hopefuly it won't act up anymore, but just in case...
Posted 07 September 2011 - 08:48 PM
Posted 09 September 2011 - 10:03 AM
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