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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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My '92 Landcruiser: Safariwagon-II


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310 replies to this topic

#51 The Dude Abides

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Posted 19 September 2011 - 12:18 AM

5 pages already, well on the way.

#52 TheLoyale

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Posted 20 September 2011 - 09:53 PM

So, I got the rear shocks in today (Rancho RS5000) and I am VERY displeased with them, They are not Gas charged, so they basically do nothing other then cushion the ride, they don't push the wheel to the ground (Which is what you'd want to improve handling) Plus they are 1/2" shorter then the stock Gabriel shocks which ARE Gas charged.

My plan now, is to purchase all 4 shocks, but in Monroe Magnum-Charged (Which is a Gas charged shock) and at a cheeper price.

On the positive, I did replace the rear marker lights, with ones I found at the Flying-Js truck stop. These are about the same sign and style, except they are LED and look much better. Almost looks stock! :banana:

Edited by TheLoyale, 20 September 2011 - 09:55 PM.


#53 cmill189

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Posted 20 September 2011 - 10:23 PM

Ranch, Superlift, Pro-comp, and all the others are typically a twin-tube design that is junk. At least that is my experience in the full-size truck world. The higher price of a mono-tube Bilstein or Gabriel will pay for itself in performance and longevity.

#54 TheLoyale

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Posted 20 September 2011 - 10:36 PM

Ranch, Superlift, Pro-comp, and all the others are typically a twin-tube design that is junk. At least that is my experience in the full-size truck world. The higher price of a mono-tube Bilstein or Gabriel will pay for itself in performance and longevity.


I think I will stand by that too, (Should have listened to Dad again lol)

Only thing these RS5000s have are, 10 proportioning Valves so it stiffens up on rough roads, but there still isn't anything pushing the tire to the ground besides the spring, I just don't get why the RS5000 has been the leader in the offroad shock market since 1985 (Baffled) :-\

#55 bheinen74

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Posted 20 September 2011 - 11:03 PM

Bilstein won't waste your money, but they will need lots of it.

-but shocks are not supposed to rebound on their own. They need a spring, or leaf, or coil for the rebounding/push. Or in the case of a BRAT, torsion bar. the shock is just there to control the motion of the travel, and to dampen it.

you have springs right?

Edited by bheinen74, 20 September 2011 - 11:06 PM.


#56 TheLoyale

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Posted 20 September 2011 - 11:32 PM

This is what I'm looking at.
http://www.rockauto....fo.php?pk=60373

#57 superu

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Posted 20 September 2011 - 11:38 PM

I would LOVE to do something like this with the Landcruiser! I originally wanted to do this with the Loyale, but I think I got the look I wanted outta that car. :)

Posted Image


Copy that, plus this Scion
Scion tC
Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image
go home Mad Max, there's a Scion on the scene ;D

#58 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 25 September 2011 - 04:21 AM

That would be kind of you, tell him thanks!
...


I'm Goin' tomorrow to visit him, I'll ask him for Pics...

Kind Regards.

#59 crazyman03

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Posted 25 September 2011 - 11:51 AM

I'm Goin' tomorrow to visit him, I'll ask him for Pics...

Kind Regards.


Post 'em up here.. i'd like to see his ride!


-Justin

#60 TheLoyale

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Posted 25 September 2011 - 09:38 PM

I have put a little TRD goodness on it as of recent. Main two things I need to do is Tires and Shocks. Tires will run close to $1,000 and shocks will be about $140ish.

Not enough play money as I once had, I haven't been able to get things done on the rig that I wish I could've. One thing I need is a new Head unit and some speakers which aren't blown (I have a stock 9 speaker system) so I wonder what'll happen if I replace the radio with a Pioneer? Is there most likely a built-in equalizer on the stock radio to control all 9 speakers?

I really don't want to have to run an AMP to still use all 9 factory speakers.

Thoughts?

#61 crazyman03

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Posted 25 September 2011 - 10:09 PM

so I wonder what'll happen if I replace the radio with a Pioneer? Is there most likely a built-in equalizer on the stock radio to control all 9 speakers?

I really don't want to have to run an AMP to still use all 9 factory speakers.

Thoughts?


It really depends on how the wiring is done. Look up a wire schematic for it and see. a lot of time they have a "built-in" amp that runs all of it. My jeep had a 6 speaker system in it, and there was an amp for them all.

How are your speakers set up? 2 tweet-dash, 2 mids fr-door, 2 tweet + 2 mids rear-door and sub?

If anything what you'll find, if there isnt an amp for the mids/highs, is a standard 4 channel output from the factory deck. Then, from there, there is probably some built-in crossovers that split the audio from mids to highs per that channel. Then for the sub, there'll probably be a little dinky amp in the back for it - For that, they more than likley either bridge OR run off the L+R audio from the rear channels to come up with the input for the sub.


make sense?


-Justin

#62 crazyman03

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Posted 25 September 2011 - 10:12 PM

To add.. Unless there is 9 channels running of the factory deck, unlikely i think, You should have no problem getting a matching harness and putting a little pioneer deck in. the audio will, or at least should, come off the regular front L+R, rear L+R wire outputs.


-Justin

#63 TheLoyale

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Posted 25 September 2011 - 10:38 PM

Yeah that makes sense, I just found out that the system does have its own AMP thats not built into the radio. So, I guess I will have to pull the radio and see just whats what.

The way the speakers are in the vehicle are as follows:

2 Dash tweeters,
2 Mids Front Doors
2 Mids Rear doors
2 Tweeters in rear cargo ceiling
1 Sub in cargo area

#64 crazyman03

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Posted 25 September 2011 - 11:20 PM

http://www.the12volt...etail/2091.html

Found your wire diagram. From what it *looks* like is that there is simply a Front L/R and a Rear L/R to the amp, then the amp either has a built-in crossover, or a crossover after the amp to go to the mids/highs. Obviously It would just be easier to buy the harness instead of splicing into these wires but it gives you a good idea on where/how to test to be sure.

In my jeep, i had it this way and the amp had a crossover built into it. When i replaced the "stock" amp, i put my crossovers and amps nearby that.


1992 Toyota Landcruiser Stereo Wiring
Constant 12V+ Blue/Yellow
Switched 12V+ Gray
Ground Brown
Illumination Green
Dimmer n/a
Antenna Trigger Black/Red
Antenna Right Front
Front Speakers 6 1/2" Doors
Left Front (+) Pink
Left Front (-) Purple
Right Front (+) Light Green
Right Front (-) Blue
Rear Speakers 6 1/2" Rear Doors
Left Rear (+) Black
Left Rear (-) Yellow
Right Rear (+) Red
Right Rear (-) White


Edit: Where my factory amp was located (under the back seat):
Posted Image

What i ended up doing with everything there:
Posted Image


-Justin

Edited by crazyman03, 26 September 2011 - 01:03 PM.


#65 tractor pole

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Posted 27 September 2011 - 09:50 AM

the factory amp is behind the passenger speaker, the amp is a small rectangular aluminum box with three plugs, unplug it and discard it(you will only use two of the plugs the other is for the factory amp signal wires from the factory deck.

if you get a regular toyota install harness this will work :Metra 70-1761
your factory sub if it still works will no longer work.
if your factory speakers are blown, replace them before they ruin your new head unit.


here is a link with some pics.
http://forum.ih8mud....eo-install.html

hope that helps.

Ben


and please DO NOT use wire nuts, they are for home wiring. strip, solder and heatshrink. or butt connectors.

Edited by tractor pole, 27 September 2011 - 09:51 AM.
editorial comment.


#66 crazyman03

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Posted 27 September 2011 - 02:48 PM

....so a after market deck wont work with the stock amp? if not, how or why?

Mine did, granted.. i have a jeep not a Toyota. It seems to me it would be rather dumb to make it not plug-and-play with a new deck. or are you suggesting removing the stock amp because it is under powering?



-Justin

#67 TheLoyale

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Posted 27 September 2011 - 07:07 PM

So, that thread does really help a lot. Yes, an aftermarket HU will work, you just need to bypass the AMP which has a "White" Plug, then use a wire adaptor "Scoshe" and connect it to both of the Gray connectors. I guess in doing this, the rear most speaker (In the cargo area) will not work (As the amp powers that so I've read)

In that case, I can always run power from one of the door speakers to power the 9th speaker and voila! Done.

My plan on a speaker set up is:

Run 4-ways in all 4 doors
Replace Dash tweeters with better tweeters (Maybe super tweeters)
Replace the roof tweeters with the same
and either run another 4-way in the cargo area or maybe just a sub.

Now if I ever run into the money ;)

I think shocks and tires are a high priority :grin:

#68 bheinen74

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Posted 27 September 2011 - 08:21 PM

I suggest leave the stock head unit, and replace the speakers with the most high efficient ones possible (efficiency is on the specs of most high end speakers, rated at 1watt per meter etc). The stock speakers are probably somewhere in the 80 DB rating, and you can get some pretty good ones that will rate in the mid to high 90db, even 100+ I am not talking anything on watts here, just the efficiency. The stock headunit and stock amp is far superior longevity life than any pioneer, xxx brand etc. You just need speakers that can turn what watts it does have into good sound.

done. the sound will be adequately better. And you will have money for tires. nobody is going to break in to steal your stuff with a stock radio.

Edited by bheinen74, 27 September 2011 - 08:24 PM.


#69 crazyman03

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Posted 27 September 2011 - 09:09 PM

yea, i can kinda agree with bheinen.. to a certain degree. If you want to save a few bucks and get the other parts you need.. you might just keep the stock HU and fix what you got and save a few bucks. Especially since you have to do some modification to get it to work. That, and you'll end up replacing the speakers anyway because of the output the new HU will be doing.


Now, that being said though. What I would do (and it would cost a bit of monies) is get a little 4 or 6 channel amp and replace the factory amp when you put a new deck in there. Put the Tweeters to the deck and the mids to the amp. if you find a 6 channel amp, you can bridge the 5th and 6th for the sub. (or an aftermarket sub you stash in there) Now, you could do all this after you get the shocks and goo and replace the speakers like above ;-)

-Justin

#70 TheLoyale

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Posted 27 September 2011 - 09:35 PM

I agree with both of your posts, It will be a long running project as are my other two cars ;) I will need to fix the CD player and LCD display if I were to keep the original HU. The CD player does not read discs and ejects them right away (Stuck/sticking Laser eye) nothing a little rubbing alcohol won't fix.

As for the Screen, I don't know, might be a loose connection, I dunno if it has a ribbon connection or if its soldered onto a board. I will discover that when I remove the radio I'm sure.

Anyway, sorry I haven't really taken any pictures for the updates like I normally do, just kinda busy with a relationship and such.

Never fear all, this thread will pick up very soon! :banana:

#71 TheLoyale

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Posted 27 September 2011 - 10:16 PM

Here is an pretty cool link to some offroad/modified Toyotas.

http://toyota.4x4offroads.com/

#72 TheLoyale

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Posted 27 September 2011 - 10:43 PM

Finally, after long awaiting, I have found someone with a set of the door panel switch trims and clear corner lights. All for $50 out of Canada eh hoser!

Now I will have a complete interior :banana: and the clear corners will give it the non-USDM look!

#73 tractor pole

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Posted 28 September 2011 - 01:13 AM

....so a after market deck wont work with the stock amp? if not, how or why?

Mine did, granted.. i have a jeep not a Toyota. It seems to me it would be rather dumb to make it not plug-and-play with a new deck. or are you suggesting removing the stock amp because it is under powering?



-Justin


In a Jeep/Chrysler with the Infinity system that will work.
its not that the amp is under powered the signal is more powerful from the aftermarket deck also the input on the Jeep amplifier is a higher voltage (speaker level power) and on the Toyota it is a low level (rca power) which can introduce all kinds of noise issues. so the easiest/best thing to do is wire around the factory amp in this case. there is a "rca level" harness that is available for the Toyota I think it is a 15 or 16 pin that has rca plugs on it instead of speaker wires, You could go that route but I do not recommend it.

On another note, I have a 2003 Dodge Ram that has the infinity stereo and have had an aftermarket head unit running through the factory amp since day one and never had any problems with noise. Rewiring is generally on a case by case basis but some cars it is necessary.

Ben

#74 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 29 September 2011 - 05:15 PM

About my Friend's Lifted Land Cruiser Pictures:

Post 'em up here.. i'd like to see his ride!


-Justin


I went to visit him and also I took Pics of his Ride... Let me Download 'em from my Camera & Upload 'em to post here ASAP.

He explained the Lift process done to his Land Cruiser and seems no very complicated... I'll explain it here along with the Pictures if you want to, Tom.

Kind Regards.

#75 TheLoyale

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Posted 29 September 2011 - 08:29 PM

Thank you, take your time. I am looking forward to see it and what he has done. It'll give me some ideas for sure :)

Heres a few new pictures,

Posted Image

Posted Image

New LED side markers.
Posted Image

Posted Image

TRD Badges.
Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image



About my Friend's Lifted Land Cruiser Pictures:



I went to visit him and also I took Pics of his Ride... Let me Download 'em from my Camera & Upload 'em to post here ASAP.

He explained the Lift process done to his Land Cruiser and seems no very complicated... I'll explain it here along with the Pictures if you want to, Tom.

Kind Regards.






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