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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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EA81 Tool


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10 replies to this topic

#1 okie bill

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Posted 12 September 2011 - 06:12 PM

I guess everyone but me has something like this, but since it took me a good part of my day to reinvent the wheel I think I deserve a pat on the back:brow:

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#2 Turbone

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Posted 12 September 2011 - 07:59 PM

Hopefully it wont shear off when you try and break a head bolt lose :-p

#3 okie bill

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Posted 13 September 2011 - 10:35 AM

Thanks for the heads up, although it hadn't occurred to me to use that to break things loose. I have other tools and BFH's for that. It did work well to apply 47 Ft. Lbs of torque exactly where I needed it.

Bill

#4 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 13 September 2011 - 05:53 PM

Most of us just use a couple sockets under the rocker assembly bolts for extra clearance and we use the Fel-Pro HG's that don't require retorquing.

GD

#5 okie bill

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Posted 14 September 2011 - 01:05 PM

GD
Seems to be the difference between experiance and "the book". Do you mean that I can raise the rocker assembly up, run through the torque sequence, then remove the sockets and torque the rocker assembly down ?
Not trying to be obnoxious. I learned in my time as a telephone tech. that the book is for 1st timers and part of being a good tech. is learning which parts I didn't have to follow exactly.

Bill

#6 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 15 September 2011 - 09:50 AM

Sorry - I should have been more clear.

What we do is simulate the rocker assembly using two sockets or a stack of nuts that is approximately the same height as the rocker assembly. Thus you torque the head without the rocker assembly in place.

Then you remove the two bolts, take out the spacers, and install the rocker assembly and torque it.

This is a perfectly acceptable procedure and many people (including myself) have used it without issue. Even Subaru reccomends loosening, lubricating, and retightening the head bolts/nuts after a run-in cycle using their head gaskets. The Fel-Pro's have proven very durable for the EA's and they specifically don't require a retorque so most of us use them instead. Thus using this installation procedure along with the HG's that don't require a retorque makes this tool basically obsolete.

:)

Also - I did make a reduced socket like that once - I did it to check that the Fel-Pro's indeed did not loosen, etc. I was unable to get any of the bolts/nuts to further tighten with my torque insturment set to the final value.

GD

Edited by GeneralDisorder, 15 September 2011 - 09:56 AM.


#7 okie bill

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Posted 15 September 2011 - 07:24 PM

Ah ha now I see, and my head gaskets are Felpro. So not only have I reinvented the wheel, but a wooden spoke buggy wheel. :banghead:

#8 Subruise

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Posted 16 September 2011 - 02:16 PM

*pats on back anyway* nice weld man


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#9 seikialice88

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Posted 02 December 2011 - 10:18 PM

Thanks for the heads up, although it hadn't occurred to me to use that to break things loose. I have other tools and BFH's for that. It did work well to apply 47 Ft. Lbs of torque exactly where I needed it.

Bill



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#10 PRND3L

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Posted 03 December 2011 - 12:33 AM

I took a socket and extension and made a tool just like this when i had to rebuild my EA82 a year or so ago, worked perfectly. :D

#11 Mugs

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Posted 03 December 2011 - 02:31 AM

Or you can just buy one off the Mac tool truck for 30 bucks...It is actually designated for Honda heads, but it works for any 14mm 12 point head bolt style. It more then likely won't work for on car head assembly, but it sure makes ease of out of engine bay head work.

Then again I have the luxury of seeing the tool truck every week.

Here's a pic....except its 10mm

Pat on the back none the less.




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