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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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leaky filler neck


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28 replies to this topic

#1 AWDWagonator

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Posted 03 October 2011 - 08:46 PM

So I got the diff in my soobie and drove it 1200 miles this weekend and didn't have an issue. Junkyard extension housing/duty c noid, and clutch pack fixed my blinking tranny light too.

Except I noticed the gas filler neck is starting to leak? Has anyone encountered this? How did they fix it?

THanks.

Edited by AWDWagonator, 03 October 2011 - 08:48 PM.


#2 davebugs

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Posted 03 October 2011 - 08:53 PM

Dealer item.

Kinda pricey.

Frequent problem.

#3 john40iowa

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Posted 03 October 2011 - 09:00 PM

Mine on the Forester went out. Some suggested jweld or similar but the
truth is it looked like something from the Titanic in terms of rust. Was going to do it myself but no where to work on nor able to get if off the ground.
My shop charged around $450.00 and the OEM parts (two piece set up with evap valve) alone were about $200.00.I thought it was reasonable.

#4 AWDWagonator

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Posted 03 October 2011 - 09:06 PM

hmm....I'm def. too cheap for that.

I'll think of something to fix it :confused:...I'll let you know what I do. :rolleyes:

#5 davebugs

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Posted 03 October 2011 - 09:14 PM

Post your year.

Some of us know to save those. But the hoses at the top differ some years.

Ebay used to have some with a "lifetime" guarantee. If you just leave the stupid plastic shield of the next should last the lifetime of the vehicle anyways.

#6 AWDWagonator

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Posted 03 October 2011 - 09:16 PM

its a 1997 legacy L wagon.

Thanks!

#7 jarl

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Posted 03 October 2011 - 09:20 PM

Remove the plastic cover and take a look at the filler neck. If it looks anywhere like my car's, it's time to get a new one.

On your '97 you most probably have the filler neck without a valve. That would bring the price of the pipe to the ~$100 range if you go for a dealer item (the valve is some $65 more). If you check car-part.com you may be able to find the pipe for $30-$40 or so. The main problem is finding one in decent condition because they rust a lot.

I replaced the pipe on my '99 OBW without too much of an issue, but I understand normal Legacys are much harder because the space is tighter. Some people here recommend running the car without the plastic cover to prevent dirt from accumulating behind it but I was afraid a rock could damage the pipe -or the smaller tubes next to it- so I applied some underbody protector paint to it and replaced the cover.

Lmdew (look for him) had offered me two pipes from Colorado at a very decent price, but unfortunately they were not the right part for my car... but I think they should fit your car perfectly.

#8 AWDWagonator

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Posted 03 October 2011 - 09:32 PM

Does anyone know what years are compatible?

#9 davebugs

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Posted 03 October 2011 - 09:36 PM

As already said youi're about at the cutoff from my experience.

95-97 or so are simpler at the top I believe because the charcoal canister is up front on the pass side by the radiator.

When they moved the canister to behind the pass rear wheel the filler got fancier (and more expensive).

I believe I have one left of the earlier ones too.

#10 AWDWagonator

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Posted 03 October 2011 - 09:47 PM

The charcoal canister is behind the filler neck on this one...

#11 jarl

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Posted 03 October 2011 - 10:41 PM

According to subarupartsforyou you should have the "simple" filler tube (the one without the valve):
http://www.subarupar... Pipe&year=1997

...but they recommend emailing them with your VIN to make sure you get the right one. Try that or simply remove the plastic cover, check which version you have (and the condition) and go from there.

#12 1-3-2-4

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Posted 03 October 2011 - 11:14 PM

I wonder how did Subaru ever get away with two things..

Having that cover on the fuel pipe and having fuel leak from the filler pipe?

#13 bheinen74

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Posted 03 October 2011 - 11:41 PM

really should be a class action suit on this, leaking fuel is not safe by any means.........and subaru is at fault on this one. Do they just not care that leaking gas can spark a fire, or that it is bad for the environment.....to have gas leaking all over the planet?


:confused: I don't get why there was not a recall on this.

Or are they going to pull a BP and say it is the owners fault for the leak.

#14 john40iowa

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Posted 03 October 2011 - 11:49 PM

I would have to agree. That part should be stainless steal or some sort
composite.

#15 jarl

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Posted 04 October 2011 - 12:04 AM

Oh... that parts is a steal for sure :D

#16 AWDWagonator

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Posted 04 October 2011 - 08:15 PM

Welp, I had some time today, and I needed to fix it, and didn't want to waste time.

So here's some pics of what the swiss cheese filler neck looked like and what i used to fix it.

Posted Image

Posted Image

I used a pipe cutter to cut the pipe, not taking any chances with a sawzall or cutoff wheel

Posted Image

I used fuel filler neck hose, as regular rubber hose would swell and fail. It was about 19 dollars for the foot, kinda pricey, luckily I didn't need alot.

Posted Image

Posted Image

Then I situated the pipes right, and put it in, and it went easier than I expected.

Posted Image

Posted Image


So, total cost was about 21 bucks, I tested it with some old gasoline, and it didn't leak....drove some big hills, still no leaks.

I'd prefer this over the replacement anyway.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions guys.

Edited by AWDWagonator, 04 October 2011 - 08:24 PM.


#17 1-3-2-4

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Posted 04 October 2011 - 08:36 PM

For people that have had the leak when the car is parked on a incline and has been not moved in like an hour or so does fuel still leak?

Mine still leaks until I get about to 1/4

#18 987687

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Posted 05 October 2011 - 03:40 PM

You got to it early! Nice fix.
I wanted to do something like that on mine, but the whole thing from top to the part where it goes into the tank was completely rusted out and paper thin..

#19 1-3-2-4

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Posted 05 October 2011 - 04:13 PM

Mine leaks right where the plastic shelf is.. I'm scared to take it off right now until I replace the whole thing... Did anyone spray it with any coatings?

#20 1-3-2-4

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Posted 12 October 2011 - 02:39 PM

I'm going to pick this up Friday from what I understand this is the part I need

42066FA031

My build date is 1/97

Has anyone used the shipping part of the site?

That's a huge price difference and it's not far from me at all maybe like 30-35 miles and I asked before if they would match the internet price and I was told I'd need to place the order so in other words I guess that's a no..

If it's going to take like 5 days to get to me then I'd have to pick it up I guess

ah I correct myself called them again and they say I can do customer pickup but I'd have to wait for them to contact me when to pick it up but I won't have to pay for shipping :)

Edited by 1-3-2-4, 12 October 2011 - 02:52 PM.


#21 Durania

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Posted 12 October 2011 - 06:14 PM

Here is my thread from a few months ago. I got an entire kit from Annapolis Subaru and that was worth it's weight in gold.

http://www.ultimates...ad.php?t=124285

#22 1-3-2-4

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Posted 12 October 2011 - 06:39 PM

yeah it's going to be like $115 with tax Not sure how long it would take for them to email me back when I can pick it up.. hopefully it's same day I've been trying to stay near empty to have less gas spilling..

I'm curious to see how big the hole is given if you fill the tank it leak at a good rate like 4-6 drops a second.

#23 Durania

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Posted 12 October 2011 - 10:10 PM

I still have a nasty stain in my driveway from where mine leaked out when I get home one day. I would run it through the car wash before tackling just to knock off the dirt and debris.

#24 NOMAD327

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Posted 13 October 2011 - 04:48 PM

I can tell you what the filler tube valve does. It's nothing but a bent piece of pipe in it's normal mode. It's a square box with two 1/4" metal tubes pointing down and there is a push button on the side that engages the hole in the filler neck. When you put a fuel nozzle in the filler, a metal paddle inside the filler pipe pushes against the button and this blocks flow between the two tube connections. There is no one way check valve function, the two connections flow freely in either direction except when fueling. When the button is in, there is no flow path in either direction. Every picture I've seen of this arrangement always has the two hoses crossing between the car connections and the valve. I would preserve that arrangement, but do not think you can hook the valve up backwards now that I see how it works.

There is no flow path between the two tube connections and the filler neck flange where the button connects. The button shaft is sealed to the valve body and the valve seals to the filler neck by means of a round bushing that engages the hole in the tube. There is no flat gasket at the joint.

The normal vent tube that comes out of the filler neck itself is 5/16" for the record.

We have been calling this a rollover valve on and off, but that's on a bracket down in front of the tank I think. The filler neck valve is called a shut valve on my documentation.

My car is a 99 Legacy Outback, but it appears the same part has been used for nearly a decade.

I have a check engine light for in leakage but do not have any problems with adding fuel to the tank.

#25 1-3-2-4

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Posted 14 October 2011 - 09:17 AM

Well I just placed the order for the fuel filler just in case I ordered the screws as well but I don't forsee a problem at all since mine is not rusted.




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