Quidam Posted July 13, 2013 Author Share Posted July 13, 2013 OK, I bought the Tanatube struts, we'll see how that goes. I also bought the BRADI rotors for the front. My other car has 215 60 16 tires on it that still have some life in them. I plan on installing them on the wheels I've got for the Subaru for now. May be too big....but they'll hold the car up and be OK for the time being. Sorted out and pieced together the parts I have tonight. Axles next and tie rod ends. Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted July 13, 2013 Author Share Posted July 13, 2013 (edited) I recieved a full refund on that flexplate, they don't want it back. Red hood pins are in the mail. I want to install new bushings in the lower control arms but I'm not having much success finding them. Probably should go with poly if I can find them, same for the front strut rod bushes. 2 brands list the caster adjustment at 2 1/4 degree plus or minus on the XT6 strut rods. I bought these. The drivers rear arch is made in Denmark, seems to be high quality. Have a NOS rear passenger door to go on, front passenger window got broken today...I didn't do it, but I got to fix it:) Edit; Test fit wheel arch to the car, so far, so good. It fits well. Edit: That knob came and it didn't have the right thread insert so I'm sending it back. The brushed finish on this one was really rough, doesn't look as good as the picture. So I ordered this. I've had one of these for a while, fits on the shifter or dual range lever. I'm keeping the DR 5 speed in the car initially...change of plans. This goes on it. The part actually looks better then this picture. Doug Edited July 19, 2013 by Quidam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted July 18, 2013 Author Share Posted July 18, 2013 I wouldn't worry to much about the valve train as far as rpm goes. All the EA82's I've had were pretty consistent about floating the valves at 81-8200 rpms and nothing bad happened when they were held there. The solid lifters are a good idea because you could make your lash predictable rather than depending on the whims of the oil system. Hey, All good points however...With solids I can gain some lift on the camshafts and restrict the oil supply. I've measured the lift and verified it all. Doug 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted July 19, 2013 Share Posted July 19, 2013 Hey, All good points however...With solids I can gain some lift on the camshafts and restrict the oil supply. I've measured the lift and verified it all. Doug Let me know how you like the solids. I have a lifter starting to collapse on my ER and I want to possibly convert it to solid lifters while I'm in there. I'd love to gain some oil pressure as an added bonus too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted July 23, 2013 Author Share Posted July 23, 2013 (edited) Bought a set of these today for the "A" motor. Here's the state of the intake runners, intake manifold. Web moving at 36 kbps on dial up right now. I'll post more later when the phone equipment dries out. Doug Here's how I left the "B" motor. I've since moved and consolidated parts for it. Plan is to plumb the oil supply from that front fitting where you see the blue. Priority turbo and main. I'm hooking a gague to each banjo bolt that used to be the oil supply to the turbo. Gives me a reference as to the health of the main bearings...RandD kinda stuff.... The cam gets full oil pressure. What's left is to cool the valve springs. I've got notes but how I'll restrict the oil isn't set in stone yet. The solid HLA's aren't either. Edited July 25, 2013 by Quidam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted July 29, 2013 Author Share Posted July 29, 2013 (edited) Been working on it... Three doors and the hood are now '86 GL 10 with the rear drivers door NOS. Did some more work fitting the drivers side rear wheel arch and ordered the other side from MILL SUPPLY. Hood pins installed and I sanded with 80 Grit the hood, drivers door, and both front fenders. The front fenders are '85 NOS but had surface rust, I'll have to do a little sand blasting to the tops of them. Front valance is now NOS and I've got the factory rubber lip/spoiler? for that too. Front struts are on the car but I'll do some mechanicals this week, got lots of parts to work with. The XT6 lower control arms are on the car but the mounting bolts from the car are too small, so I'll need those. I also don't have the four bolts that mount the strut to the knuckle. Bigger bushings on the XT 6 arms. I powerwashed the whole car, need to go another round with that though, some I missed. Have a 4000psi Honda that will remove paint, in this case that's a good thing The pistons above are good for 20 psi. Piston pins standard are case hardened so I upgraded to a thinner wall bearing steel. Less weight easier on the rods. I need to talk steering racks but it's a longer subject then I want to get into right now...later on. Doug Edited July 29, 2013 by Quidam 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted August 5, 2013 Share Posted August 5, 2013 Yes, the XT6 control arm bolts are bigger. I hogged out the holes a bit and welded a washer to help push the bushings away from the inside pocket of the crossmember. I would ditch the XT6 knuckles and run a pair from a '90s Legacy or Impreza and then you also gain the front camber adjustment. What do you need to know about steering racks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted August 5, 2013 Author Share Posted August 5, 2013 (edited) Now I understand what you did with the washers, thanks. I need to get both bolts. The struts I bought have the camber plates. I'm going to roll with the XT6 knuckles for now with all new stuff on them, which I have. I bought the rack not knowing that I would also need the "torque rod" from rack to steering shaft. The power steering drivers side rack mounting bracket bolts up fine, but I need the passenger side mounting bracket. My rack is 4 turns lock to lock. So, two bolts, a torque rod and a bracket is what I'm missing. Haven't got around to posting in the wanted section. Doug Edit: Web moving slow here, only way to post from home. I ground the mounting ears on the XT6 nuckels, both sides. Just surfaced them removing flash and such to bare metal. That reduced the thickness but not enough to fit the strut. So I took two wood splitting wedges and inserted them one top one bottom through the strut mounting area. Smacked them a few times with a 3 lb. sledge and now they fit. Still no bolts, too busy. I've reworked 5 connecting rods and three more to go. Stock Subaru is A beam. I'll post pics, flash removal and smoothing the beams. They look good so far, I've had the ARIAS piston in the block for a few days. I've assembled and dissasembled the passenger side...block to cam case, it's now head off with a clay impression...I've got valve interference, I'm working on it. ARIAS piston sits .020 above deck = .040 quench...piston to head. Perfect. I might try later on Android. Doug Edited August 24, 2013 by Quidam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted September 6, 2013 Author Share Posted September 6, 2013 (edited) Haven't done much to it lately. But, here's some pics. EJ20 ARIAS piston. Just started on this section...ported the water inlets, bigger, all enlarged. Doug Edited September 7, 2013 by Quidam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve W. Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 Hey Doug, haven't been by the thread in a while, it's lookin' great. Keep up the good work.. Steve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted September 23, 2013 Author Share Posted September 23, 2013 Hey Doug, haven't been by the thread in a while, it's lookin' great. Keep up the good work.. Steve. I've got more parts to put on...need more work:) Thanks. I've been wanting to get my hands on a set of these. I think I could mabie use them. From a Ford. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted December 12, 2013 Author Share Posted December 12, 2013 (edited) I rolled the fender lips. Rolled the rears and I need to test fit and cut, they are going to need another round with the ball bat, and the stretching hammer and dolly. Edited December 12, 2013 by Quidam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve W. Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 I have to say, I'm proud of you for investing all that effort and $. I thot I had a lot of time in my old GL, but your puttin' me to shame. I haven't seen any negative feed back lately. Sure lookin' good. Steve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpholz Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 It's been a while since I've ventured to this thread. It's looking great man! What piston did you decide on using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherGL10guy Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 I really like this. first thread i have read here on the forum. great work on your Subaru Doug! keep it up! I just bought an 87 GL-10 turbo wagon, I plan on a full resto as well. its got 120k original on her so its a clean start! sept its lifted, Im a wheelin guy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted August 25, 2014 Author Share Posted August 25, 2014 Back, because it's time. Will be reading, on a tablet right now. Laptop via HughesNet soon. Been cleaning garage, share it with 11cats, little monsters. Been organizing Subaru parts. brought an Audi Quatro for a driver. Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ibreakstuff Posted August 25, 2014 Share Posted August 25, 2014 Wow, not sure how but I never read this thread. It's refreshing to see someone else has similar ideas for tinkering with the ea82t.From your photo, the compression height on those forged pistons seems to be off.. is that just an optical illusion? I picked up some Keith Black/Icon (IC638C) pistons and the compression height is exactly the same as the stock turbo pistons, just with the larger pin. Did you ever pick up the Ford solid lifters? I still have not cut mine to size yet, I am thinking about machining a ring around the lifter similar to the stock HLA.. So the sleeve will take the load, so not to peen the bottom of the HLA bores.Regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted September 12, 2014 Author Share Posted September 12, 2014 Hey, I'll post some pics when I can get them to post. I need to answer some questions and catch up with the board, and I will. I took two oil pans and made one. Ne one is about an inch deeper, has two fittings for the turbo drains. It now has a double flange, another windage tray in the top, and an extended pickup tube which will be about a half inch from the bottom of the pan. took three turbo headers and made one out of them and it's shaping up nicely. he turbos will be moved outward from the motor a bit. I've been working on turbos and I have five to work with. One VF 2, three VF4 and I don't know what the other one is right now. I have three clutches and I've been working on those. More later on. Doug 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted September 17, 2014 Author Share Posted September 17, 2014 Hi, Been doing a lot of work in the garage. Bought an oil cooler with fan, kit also has AN 10 lines, and oil filter relocation. A dual core aluminum radiator with fans and aluminum shroud is on the way. Picked up two 90 degree fittings for the turbo oil drain back that go in the oil pan. Turbos will be moved out from the motor at least 4 inches. Been doing a mock up in the garage to sort out placement. Keep in mind I have many cars and engines for parts. Two engines will most likely get built, one with stock pistons. Been doing a lot of research. Hacking away at a custom intake, a different one. Bought another gasket kit to have on hand I'm thinking I'll set the mock up engine in the car when I get a chance and check fitment, oil pan, headers turbos, radiator, oil cooler, etc. Once it's in the car I hope to assemble the suspension. I've only got two of those RS wheels in the pictures so need two of those and I think for tires about a 225 45 sized sticky Firestones. All I can think of for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpholz Posted September 22, 2014 Share Posted September 22, 2014 info on the rad? been working a bit on mine lately but have not been posting anything. you might be interested in my rail setup however, ill have to find a pic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpholz Posted September 22, 2014 Share Posted September 22, 2014 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherGL10guy Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 best thread!! love the EA82 motors. I would LOVE to do just the porting and polishing you have done here to my stock (intercooled) ea82 wagon I have. just make it run stronger and more efficient would be nice in itself. I have been looking at an EJ swap.. I want to keep the ea really!! why? because i like it! Honestly i would be happy with a reliable 150hp 7k rpm ea82t that is a smooth running RELIABLE engine. possible? suggestions????? keep up the great work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 Honestly i would be happy with a reliable 150hp 7k rpm ea82t that is a smooth running RELIABLE engine. possible? suggestions????? EA82t heads crack badly......all of them......They are not reliable especially when you bump the H.P........but I guess it depends on excactly what you call "dependable"..........Certainly would not hold up to 30+ miles a day of DD duty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ibreakstuff Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 (edited) EA82t heads crack badly......all of them......They are not reliable especially when you bump the H.P........but I guess it depends on excactly what you call "dependable"..........Certainly would not hold up to 30+ miles a day of DD duty. Some seem to crack but never grow into the coolant jacket too, these are the ones I look for. High miles but only hairline bridge cracks, well seasoned with a flat deck. That said, I have 3 cracked heads on the shelf that failed a basic pressure test and probably won't be repairable without an ACDC welder. The turbo side seems to crack them first. With 1/2" head studs and mls gaskets, I assume the weak link will be the heads for sure 100%. I've been collecting heads on PnP discount days in anticipation. I think there are things that can be done to mitigate them cracking further too. Not just coolant system upgrades but perhaps water injection, ethanol, and well controlled egts via better fueling and engine management. Edit: I plan to DD one of my RX's but it won't be very stock. Edited October 29, 2014 by Ibreakstuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 They crack in the exhaust port........not just the normal between the valves crack. ALL of the ones I have seen have cracks.....had 4 heads repaired (welded) and they cracked again within 10k miles. They will run fine still.......If you keep the water level up. I just can't understand why one would want to "build up" one of these engines........you can get more power easier from an EJ and the weight diference is less than 100 lbs.........Just doesn't make sense to me. But that said.....they work showcased in this thread is amazing.....and I salute the efforts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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