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2.2 Oil Pump Oring
Posted 14 March 2004 - 09:10 AM
Posted 14 March 2004 - 10:25 AM
Posted 14 March 2004 - 10:40 AM
Posted 14 March 2004 - 01:28 PM
If it's not leaking, then why should it start now? What happens if a bolt breaks off during removal? Will you be able to re-seal it well enough?
I agree that cam and crank seals should be replaced, but the oil pump seals have me in a pickle too.
Posted 14 March 2004 - 01:38 PM
Same thing for the backing plate screws. Moreover, the torque value of these fasteners is relatively low.
When I did mine I replaced the Oring and resealed the mating surfaces but did not touch the back cover's screws. They were already tight enoug.
Having had a look gave me peace of mind.
Posted 15 March 2004 - 12:56 AM
Posted 15 March 2004 - 10:14 AM
here's some thoughts. Removing the oil pump isn't that difficult. It was more difficult for me to see all the stupid bolts holding it in The O-ring was probably in need of being replaced, it was squished a little. The screws holding the backing plate were more then tight enough. I pulled the plate off to check the rotors, and everything looked fine. Resealed everything. Taking the oil pump off makes changing the crank seal easy.
The cam seals were a pain in the butt to change. There's definitely a little secret to doing it. You need to stick a small flat head screwdriver into the seal from a very shallow angle and sort of pry against the block (using it as a pivot point) to try and get seal out. I spent a lot of time on the driver's side and spent less then a minute on the pass side once I figured out how to do it.
Other then that....everything was pretty straight forward, and went all back together easily. I probably should've replaced the idler pullies and gear.....but oh well.
If I was just doing the belt it would've probably only taken me 2 hours or so....I was surprised it wasn't that difficult.
Here's some pics
Posted 15 March 2004 - 10:53 AM
I lost a lot of time trying a method i read about where you drill two small holes on each side of the seal, put metal screws in and pull on the screws with a couple of small vise grips. Did'nt work out for me.
Before i was finished, i had to go to the dealer to get a part and just went into the working area and flatly asked a mechanic how he did to remove those seals. Exactly the srewdriver method you outlined in your post.
One has to be careful though not to scratch the shaft while doing this. You have to pry upward and AWAY from the shaft. Only a mirror finish will prevent the seal from leaking again.
Like yourself, I did'nt replace the idler pulleys nor the tensionner. They seemed to be OK. Hope I wont regret it.
You did'nt say anything about the water pump. Did you replace it?
Posted 15 March 2004 - 01:01 PM
The shafts are pretty hard and don't scratch too easily.....I don't think I really touched them once I new what I was doing. The drivers side was the one i was boogering up.
We'll see if it starts leaking....it should be ok though.
Posted 15 March 2004 - 01:53 PM
Posted 15 March 2004 - 03:32 PM
I slowly insert the screwdriver's blade (greased or oiled) between the seal's lip and the shaft, (the blade flat touching the shaft). I then go in just enough so that by pushing downward on the handle the blade part of the driver will exert from inside a pressure on the seal's rim (crown ?) At that moment the part of the driver closest to the handle is pivoting on the block just under the seal.
What I recommend at that stage is to also put some lateral pressure on the screwdriver away from the shaft to lower the possibility of scratching it and making sure the blade tip is not gouging the seal's seat. Like 777 said, it would take a real hit or a heavy pressure of the driver's stem on the shaft to gouge it enoug to pose a problem for the seal's lip.
Hope that's clear.
Posted 15 March 2004 - 04:57 PM
Posted 15 March 2004 - 07:02 PM
I'll try and draw something up on one of my pics I took....with some arrows and stuff. On the pass side I used a small socket against the block to move my pivot point further out from the head and allow myself some more leverage.
Posted 15 March 2004 - 07:49 PM
Posted 15 March 2004 - 11:18 PM
Posted 16 March 2004 - 09:41 PM
Posted 17 March 2004 - 10:07 AM
Honestly Oil will be all around in this area of the pump......it will not be a perfect seal between the backing plate and housing. As long as the screws were tight.....I wouldn't think there to be a problem....unless something was worn out of spec.....I don't know....I didn't see any problems with mine.
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