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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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1988 subaru turbo GL, EJ22 and 4" lift, plus 6lug swap build!


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95 replies to this topic

#1 Prwa101

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Posted 24 October 2011 - 04:41 PM

okay so i picked me up a 88 subaru turbo gl the other day for 260$ (no motor), got my ej22 and harness stripped just waiting on a couple of things for start putting her togeather (money included) haha. pretty much just need the xt6 clutch, addplate and fans :clap: pretty stoked to build my monster subi!!!

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has 180k on it not bad for a little car work for my girlfriends parents impreza.
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Three and half days of streight harness stripping, not bad for a noob.
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my 235/75/R15s for the 6 lug swap
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the ej22 should fit right up with the cross member bolts right? looks the same as my 90 loyale and thous fit right up.
it being a turbo dosnt change much does it?

i am open to any advice from anyone! :burnout:

thanks!

-Prwa

Edited by Prwa101, 24 October 2011 - 04:57 PM.


#2 eulogious

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Posted 01 November 2011 - 08:20 AM

The cross member is going to be different for you. Now wether or not that is an issue I don't know. But I do know that the turbo cross member is the one that seems to be wanted, IIRC. Might want to look that up...

#3 Turbone

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Posted 01 November 2011 - 08:42 AM

All thats needed on the x-member is to ream the holes out about 1/2" towards the center.

#4 Prwa101

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Posted 01 November 2011 - 04:18 PM

in the write up, "Use the EJ motor mounts, and widen the mounting holes in the crossmember slightly, somewhere between 1/4" to 1/2" on either side. A Dremel or similar rotary tool with a grinding stone works great for this.

EA82 crossmember accepts the motor mount holes without widening (round EJ mounts) EJ mounts may have a centering nipple that needs to be ground off as there is no receiving hole in the EA crossmember as there is in the EJ crossmember. 3"""

and i think mine is an ea82, theres no block to see what it is, but looks like surfing the web that it is a ea82T.

Prwa

#5 xbeerd

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Posted 01 November 2011 - 05:18 PM

if its an ea82, which i would assume it is. since its an 88 turbo, you dont have to do the holes wider from my experience, i didnt have to do anything to the crossmember in my 92. i think thats for ea81 only that you need to adjust the holes.

**info based on the Subaru EA Wiki page. showing ea81t only up thru 84

Edited by xbeerd, 01 November 2011 - 05:21 PM.


#6 Prwa101

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Posted 01 November 2011 - 06:55 PM

if its an ea82, which i would assume it is. since its an 88 turbo, you dont have to do the holes wider from my experience, i didnt have to do anything to the crossmember in my 92. i think thats for ea81 only that you need to adjust the holes.

**info based on the Subaru EA Wiki page. showing ea81t only up thru 84


Yup, that's where I saw it too! Thanks!

#7 Prwa101

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Posted 23 November 2011 - 11:39 AM

Finnly got some time to start putting the lift in, got all the bolts for the crossmember undone other than one... It's striped... So another hold back, should have it finished once schools over for break...

#8 drugh

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Posted 23 November 2011 - 03:10 PM

Speaking of motor mounts for your EJ swap, it might be a good time to make shims described in post #9.

http://www.ultimates...ap motor mounts

Some people have problems with the mounts splitting, others do not seem to have the issue.

My motor mounts lasted about 1/2 tank of gas before they split and the motor was jumping all over the place.

#9 Prwa101

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Posted 24 November 2011 - 02:06 AM

Speaking of motor mounts for your EJ swap, it might be a good time to make shims described in post #9.

http://www.ultimates...ap motor mounts

Some people have problems with the mounts splitting, others do not seem to have the issue.

My motor mounts lasted about 1/2 tank of gas before they split and the motor was jumping all over the place.



That's a very good point, and this is the first I've heard it it. Hmm so could swapping the crossmember on my GL to the legacy fix this? If its possible to do so?
And sounds like its kinda a hit and miss thing that happens.

#10 Prwa101

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Posted 28 November 2011 - 11:23 AM

I still have the doner car a 93 leg, should I steal anything else off of it other than the ej swap stuff before I scrap it?

Prwa

#11 Scott in Bellingham

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Posted 28 November 2011 - 12:39 PM

I just slipped some 1/4" rod in there on the gap side and tightened down the nut, never a issue and the round ones are prone to break

#12 Gloyale

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Posted 02 December 2011 - 11:36 AM

My motor mounts lasted about 1/2 tank of gas before they split and the motor was jumping all over the place.


Did you install a proper dogbone (pitch stopper)

The engine will rock around all over, and eventually break the mounts without a good solid pitch stopper. It also improves shifting since the rump roast of the trans won't be tipping up and down under Ac/Decelaration.

#13 Prwa101

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Posted 11 January 2012 - 09:40 PM

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well got my 3" crossmember spacers in and painted (did that after the photo was taked) , just didnt have time to put it up,

got those in and the tranny mounts spacers, (forgot to take a photo of those) lol

and now working on the back lift, got my 4" rear strut lift from poobaru for 25$ thanks man! not bad for garage junk haha

and just orderd the rear diff drop from sjr! thanks for having an awesome business!

more coming soon!

#14 Prwa101

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Posted 20 January 2012 - 02:46 PM

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ahhh my new rear diff drop!

SJR=Awsome! :banana:

#15 Prwa101

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Posted 27 January 2012 - 03:22 PM

Damn thous are a pain in the butt to get on! now for the other side.
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the diff in in the ground!
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#16 Prwa101

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Posted 06 February 2012 - 04:10 PM

had some extra time before class so i droped by the metals shop and finished my lift :Flame: not bad for the first time on the TIG

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#17 Prwa101

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Posted 06 February 2012 - 06:41 PM

and the diff plate is on!

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#18 Gloyale

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Posted 08 February 2012 - 07:44 PM

Uhh..... you've turned the triangulation into a parrallelogram.

You may experience some rocking forward and aft from the diff. Might not matter, but worst case could pull you're driveline out of the back of the trans.

You may want to rethink that mount. I'd put a spacer between the diff and the hanger instead. and only an inch. no need to drop th e front of the diff down as much as the rear. that keeps it more of a triangle.

Edited by Gloyale, 08 February 2012 - 08:36 PM.


#19 Prwa101

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Posted 09 February 2012 - 11:18 AM

Uhh..... you've turned the triangulation into a parrallelogram.

You may experience some rocking forward and aft from the diff. Might not matter, but worst case could pull you're driveline out of the back of the trans.

You may want to rethink that mount. I'd put a spacer between the diff and the hanger instead. and only an inch. no need to drop th e front of the diff down as much as the rear. that keeps it more of a triangle.


Well darn... Considering I already installed it.. I thought I was copying sjrs, with the tubes and longer bolts, but now that I look at it th tubes arnt 3"..... They look to be 1.5" or 2? Does that sound right?

I was going to do that but, I thought I'd try something new, and didn't want to spend anymore $$ on those long bolts when I could just tack weld some metal in on my Spare time.

I'll go and look at the driveline and see how catywompis it is.

#20 Scott in Bellingham

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Posted 09 February 2012 - 12:35 PM

Well darn... Considering I already installed it.. I thought I was copying sjrs, with the tubes and longer bolts, but now that I look at it th tubes arnt 3"..... They look to be 1.5" or 2? Does that sound right?

I was going to do that but, I thought I'd try something new, and didn't want to spend anymore $$ on those long bolts when I could just tack weld some metal in on my Spare time.

I'll go and look at the driveline and see how catywompis it is.



I run 2" at the front or rear diff and 3" at the rear

#21 Prwa101

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Posted 09 February 2012 - 05:36 PM

I run 2" at the front or rear diff and 3" at the rear


Thanks!

Yeah 3" is to much for sure, its way to low, really bad angle on the drive Line. Well back to the drawing board, and back to the welding shop.

#22 Prwa101

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Posted 10 February 2012 - 01:25 PM

well looks like im going to make my ej addaptor plate, went into the metals shop and turns out theres a lot of 1/2" steel plates in there. plazma cutter here i come! :Flame:


------ resent..... plasma cutter broken......



anyone know where i can get a ej adaptor plate for about 100$???

Edited by Prwa101, 15 February 2012 - 09:08 PM.


#23 Prwa101

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Posted 02 April 2012 - 08:44 PM

Well made a bit of head way in the past weeks. Got the add plate from sjr, lift completed, and starting to look at cutting the wires out of the car to fit the harness through the fire wall. :burnout:
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Does this stuff need to go? I think it's the igniter, but not sure.
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#24 Gloyale

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Posted 03 April 2012 - 09:19 AM

Well made a bit of head way in the past weeks. Got the add plate from sjr, lift completed, and starting to look at cutting the wires out of the car to fit the harness through the fire wall. :burnout:
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Does this stuff need to go? I think it's the igniter, but not sure.
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that's not the igniter.

It's the boost solenoid, and the dropping resistor for the EA82 injectors. It can go.

Although, I would advise not to cut alot of wires out of your EA harness. You should be able to fit the EJ harness in without cutting "out" any of the EA bundle.

#25 Prwa101

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Posted 03 April 2012 - 10:33 AM

that's not the igniter.

It's the boost solenoid, and the dropping resistor for the EA82 injectors. It can go.

Although, I would advise not to cut alot of wires out of your EA harness. You should be able to fit the EJ harness in without cutting "out" any of the EA bundle.


Thanks! Okay I wont cut anything out, I'd rather be safe than sorry and I understand why you say that. Could end up cutting a wire that goes to something that shouldn't have been cut.

The ej harness will fit through the hole under the fender fire wall, sweet saves me time!

Thanks Gloyale!




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