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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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Doctor heal thyself ... or want input from other high mileage 4eat owners.


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19 replies to this topic

#1 nipper

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Posted 22 November 2011 - 11:34 PM

Blu is sick.

What happened was 4 wheeling Blu got water in his tranny fluid. The dipstick was partially out. Blu lost 3rd and 4th. We did a quick drain and fill and some magical elixers. After 28 miles he got 3rd and 4th back. He was fine for the 100 mile drive home. The next day he lost them again, now all has been fine for 2 weeks except ...

Torque bind. It is not there when cold but is when hot.

The tranny has 300,000 miles on it. The AWD unit 120,000 miles.

Normally with a loss of the upper two gears I would say the tranny is cooked, but all has been fine. I am sort of a little confused as to what to do next as usually on a transmission with this mileage once it acts up it is at the end of the road. The healing itself has me confused.

My options:
Pay for a real flush and cross my fingers. I have done a driveway flush but with water contamination that never works well.

Just bite the bullit (I have accepted this due to the mileage) and get a rebuilt transmission and be done with it.

If Blu was 200,000 miles I know what I would do, the real flush then rebuild the AWD if needed. 300,000 miles is a different ball game.

My gut tells me to go for the rebuild, but should I even try the full flush. Even if it works, the question is for how long?

Blu seems to be shifting fine. For a while he seemed too fond of second gear but now seems to be back to normal. None of this is a solenoid or tire issue (new tires).

Used is out of the question as Blu will last another 300K easily.

I don't want to throw 100 bucks for a flush for what the inevetible is if that what the inevitable will be.

#2 Dylan

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Posted 22 November 2011 - 11:49 PM

Put the FWD fuse in and run her until she quits. I had to do that on mine because of the torque bind.

I actually installed a switch on the dash if I ever need the AWD.

#3 Fairtax4me

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Posted 23 November 2011 - 12:05 AM

Did you put some Heet or Dry gas in it to pull the rest of the water out? :-p

I'd do the driveway flush another time or two and see how it does. It might just need another 100 miles to make up it's mind.

#4 nipper

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Posted 23 November 2011 - 12:15 AM

Put the FWD fuse in and run her until she quits. I had to do that on mine because of the torque bind.

I actually installed a switch on the dash if I ever need the AWD.



Plan C is that to buy time, but I have an AWD car I want an AWD car, otherwise I would (covers blus ears) sell him and get a :Flame:honda.

#5 nipper

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Posted 23 November 2011 - 12:16 AM

Did you put some Heet or Dry gas in it to pull the rest of the water out? :-p

I'd do the driveway flush another time or two and see how it does. It might just need another 100 miles to make up it's mind.



Hrmm drygas ....

#6 Redcap

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Posted 23 November 2011 - 12:18 AM

You could always scavenge a boneyard transmission.

#7 john40iowa

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Posted 23 November 2011 - 12:19 AM

I would try the professional flush. Recently the '08 Toyota work vehicle I drive was starting to slip in third and dark fluid. Anyhow, we got flushed and so far so good. You can always go to plan C if it doesn't work. Good luck! My Subie has about 200K all original tranny and I like the full synthetic fluid a lot!

Edited by john40iowa, 23 November 2011 - 12:25 AM.


#8 bheinen74

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Posted 23 November 2011 - 12:31 AM

Subarus do not like full flushes. It causes too many problems than it solves, mainly disturbing crud in the torque converter, which then gets dislodged into the main guts of your trans. those debris particles are better off staying in the TC.

Now, you should just do a drain and refill, 2 more times, driving up to 100 miles between the services.

#9 nipper

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Posted 23 November 2011 - 12:36 AM

Blu has gotten flushes before with no issues, and to be honest, I am in the area of it cant make things worse as my budget has made peace with a transmission.

#10 bheinen74

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Posted 23 November 2011 - 12:49 AM

hmm then try a flush then if you have been doing them before.

got some crud or a sticky solenoid/s in there may come out of it.

#11 nipper

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Posted 23 November 2011 - 01:22 AM

I may go that route. Its Christmas money doesnt exist so I dont want to piss away 1000 on what is going to cost me 2700 and comes with free fluid :)

The self healing aspect pissed me off. I had a tow all set and everything. The Justy is a carb and a exhaust away from being legal too.

#12 nipper

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Posted 23 November 2011 - 01:26 AM

You could always scavenge a boneyard transmission.



I wish I could but no garage to work in.I am not allowed to do heavy undercar anymore due to a spinal injury, and a huge hit against my ego.

Truth be told I pay for work now. It hurts really hurts to get under a car pinch a nerve, be dpwn for 6 weeks and repeate.

#13 Redcap

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Posted 23 November 2011 - 01:44 AM

I wish I could but no garage to work in.I am not allowed to do heavy undercar anymore due to a spinal injury, and a huge hit against my ego.

Truth be told I pay for work now. It hurts really hurts to get under a car pinch a nerve, be dpwn for 6 weeks and repeate.


Ah, I understand. That sucks man!

#14 WoodsWagon

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Posted 23 November 2011 - 11:59 AM

If you only did one drain and refill, there's still a bunch of water in the oil. I'd also be concerned about how much mud got in too, you might want to drop the pan and have the filter screen cleaned off.

#15 grossgary

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Posted 23 November 2011 - 08:07 PM

ah nip!

make sure the vent tube is not restricted?
make sure trans and engine connectors aren't wet internally?

did you try to google water in transmission and see if there's any ingenious ways to get it all out? i'm sure folks have ran into this before? does it eventually boil off?

i'd lean towards keeping the trans for the short term at least. worked fine before and i wouldn't asume that this completely toasted it - seems equally likely the trans will be fine too?

FWD fuse get rid of the torque bind?

#16 nipper

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Posted 23 November 2011 - 08:26 PM

We did the connector thing.

FWD fuse does kill the TB.

TB comes up only when the tranny starts getting warm from lots of turns.

We also did a "purge" (start car and drain) to get it out of the converter.

Google is depressing "always ends in failure". I disagree with this if it is taken care of quickly, but the age and the water of Blu's trainy, plus the fact it fixed itself has me confused and concerned. There are suggestions that say lots and lots and lots of drain and fills.

The saving grace is that it wasn't a lot of water, just your typical driving through somewhat deep water.

I think I am going to (ugh) take a chance with a flush when my Mechanic does the TB after T day.

Blu is not having a good month, he also got damaged by a car wash.

#17 uniberp

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Posted 23 November 2011 - 10:12 PM

All the water talk makes me wonder if it has an electrical issue.

#18 nipper

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Posted 23 November 2011 - 10:16 PM

Wasnt a lot of water and the solenoids are all sealed. Right now the only issue is TB when it gets hot. I have to watch the tranny temp gauge to see if there is a temp where it happens constantly.

#19 Markus56

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Posted 24 November 2011 - 03:25 AM

So, when you get water in your auto tranny it has the tendency to turn the fibrous clutch pack discs into a papery goo. I cant recall off the top of my head, but i have a feeling that is what controls 3rd and 4th gear, and i do know that a clutch pack controls power to the rear output shaft and hence, binding.

I have a feeling that the soggy clutch discs are whats causing your problems. unfortunately there is no real way to find out unless you feel like pulling your tranny apart.

I wish i had my power flow charts with me so i could know for sure, but i went home over the holidays :drunk:.


Anyway, that is my theory and for your sake i hope i am wrong.

~Yohn

#20 john40iowa

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Posted 24 November 2011 - 03:48 AM

http://www.quality-t...om/faq/faq6.htm

It looks ominous, but who knows. Self correcting can happen with luck...




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