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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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late ea81 disty in early ea81


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3 replies to this topic

#1 the sucker king

the sucker king

    great fisherman

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  • Lyons, Colorado

Posted 26 November 2011 - 08:49 PM

The harness and ignition coil in my car are of the 80 - 81 year model variety. The stock disty has a three way connector that plugs in to a connector that comes out of the ignition control unit thing mounted on the top of the coil. This connector is circled towards the top of the pic. I need to replace the disty and the only solid one I have is of the 83 + variety that has the two wires that mount directly to the two positive and negative terminals on the front of the coil. Can I just hook it up with no other alterations?

I am a little concerned because in addition to the positive and negative leads from the main harness to the terminals on the front of the coil, there is a black and white wire from the main harness that connects to the resistor pack on the top of the coil. This is the other thing circled.

Can I run this set up just like it is in the pic?

Posted Image

Edited by the sucker king, 26 November 2011 - 08:53 PM.
wanted to be clearer in the title.


#2 CHIM

CHIM

    I think i can break that.

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Posted 27 November 2011 - 04:50 AM

Drop the new dizzy in and wire it straight to the coil, and get rid of the ballist resister completly.

#3 the sucker king

the sucker king

    great fisherman

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Posted 27 November 2011 - 10:23 AM

The new dizzy IS in and wired straight to the coil (hard to tell in the pic).

If I get rid of the resistor pack completely, what do I do with the black and white wire from the harness? What does it do? Are you saying I CAN'T run this as is?

#4 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 27 November 2011 - 10:28 AM

Edit - Looking at it closer and thinking back to what that ballast resistor is for - it's purpose is to drop the voltage when the engine is running to where it's at when cranking the engine without the alternator pitching in to help. Thus you need to move the black/white wire to the coil positive and then take out the ballast resistor. You really should also be running the later coil that matches the later distrubutor so that it's designed for full system voltage. There should also be another wire going to the coil positive currently that bypasses the ballast resistor when you are cranking the engine. Verify that this is the case and just leave that wire attached to the coil.

GD

Edited by GeneralDisorder, 27 November 2011 - 10:52 AM.





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