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Posted 16 March 2004 - 11:18 AM
so it would be:
so it would interupt the power from the key to the starter.
so that you must press in and hold the button to get the car to start. now, can someone please tell me where the ignition wire is that i am talking about, where it is easist to locate, and what color it you be on my 86 GL wagon.
also pictures would be helpful.
Posted 16 March 2004 - 12:22 PM
Posted 16 March 2004 - 02:51 PM
Loop a connection from pin 30 onto pin 86. Take the connection from pin 85 to your choice of switch and the other connection of the switch to a good earth point. When the switch is "on" then your ignition key will work as normal, when off the key will be dead.
Another way I have done it is not to use a switch but use the wiring on the back of for example your rear heated window switch, find a wire on the rear of the hrw that is earthed when pushed in and off when released - hence when you leave your car unattended if you leave the hrw switch pushed in then your starter cannot be turned from the igniton switch.
Posted 16 March 2004 - 02:58 PM
Posted 16 March 2004 - 03:10 PM
If you use a relay it allows you to use a lightweight switch cos all its doing is switching a relay on and off.
Are you thinking along the lines of having to push a button whilst cranking - if so then the button would have to reasonably near and may therefore be easy to find.
With a relay you can put the switch anywhere you like.
Posted 16 March 2004 - 03:50 PM
then like you say, i will have to get a relay, can someone please for the radio shack's web site and send me a link to the relay i need. thanks, or atleast the part number for radio shack.
Posted 16 March 2004 - 07:03 PM
12077864 but the ac relay, light relay, and many others are usable.
Posted 16 March 2004 - 07:11 PM
I'm running from an "ignition on" hot wire to the wire on the starter solenoid with a fusable link in the system. Works great.
I also have my fuel pump hooked up to a toggle. Nothing is hidden, but it's a complicated enough process (Turn key on, flip fuel switch, push starter button) that no one can start it without directions.
Another option for a hidden kill switch is: Is your car an auto?*edit: I see it's a 5spd, but for referance...*
If so, splice into the wire from the trans that tells the car it's in park. (this is basically a ground, I think ) Then hide the switch. Until you complete the connection via the switch, the car thinks it's not in park, and won't start.
Posted 16 March 2004 - 07:35 PM
also does my 86 GL carbed wagon have a electric fuel pump, and if it does where does the wiring for the pump run, i want to put a switch on that also.
Posted 16 March 2004 - 08:16 PM
I work of Kenworth as a electrical and power train engineer. I ran a project where we installed LVD's (Low Voltage Disconnects) into our trucks. They disconnect non-vital battery loads when the trucks is off. Example: coffee maker, dome lights, fridge, acc outlets. This way the truck can start in the morning if the guy falls asleep watching a movie.
I hooked one up to my car's main cab feed (not starter, too high a current current). I rewired the head lights so they are always on now. I reset the LVD for 12.5 volts. After three mintuets the LVD shuts off the power to the entire car. I ran a seprate circuit to provide power to a momentary reset switch in the dash. It's made to look like a fog lamp switch. You have to hold this momentary switch down for 10 seconds to reset the LVD. Afterwhich you have three minutes to start your car, if not you have to reset the switch again. With the key in the IGN position, the LVD is over-ridden and can't turn off loads.
The same circuit I use to override the LVD I ran to my sterio and clock, so the LVD would not disconnect those loads. The guys at the tire shop were very impressed by this stealthy security device.
Anyone wnat one I can tell them where to buy it and draw up a system diagram to show you how to wire it up. The device is sealed and good for under hood use (semi-truck, 300K miles)
I'll even tell you the secret so you can raise the voltage setpoint. They sell them only at 12.0V and 12.3V. No harm comes to a battery if it cycles down to 12.5V, 12.3V just a little bit.
Posted 16 March 2004 - 08:27 PM
scooby I hate to tell you but I would be past your toggle switch so fast no mater where you put it. all someone would have to do is jumper right at the starter and down the road you go.
to answer your other question. yes you have an electric fuel pump its in the right rear of the car. the wireing is under the carpet on the pass side then up under dash.
switches are not meant to carry a large load unless they are a Heavy duty unit. thats why you use a relay. they do the real work carring the amps.
Posted 16 March 2004 - 09:49 PM
also, I ran a magnetic switch in the ashtray behind the center console in my civic and with the ashtray open, it would not start because the magnet was too far from the switch...close the tray and the magnet sits right over the switch, activating the relay, which in turn connected the starter wires.
another magnet switch idea would be to adhere the switch inside a plastic panel somewhere and touch a magnet over it while starting the car...you can put the magnet on a key chain or hide it in the car or something...
i like this kinda stuff so let me know if you need help
Posted 16 March 2004 - 10:02 PM
rallyruss: well maybe this one switch, but when im done, you wont want to try to open my door.
im gettin a car alarm, it has 2 aluxary channels, one is being hooked to my windows to roll them down when i hit the pad on the key chain, the otehr arms my security system, car battery hooked to all the door handles, so all you will remember is that you touched the door handle, and you woke up on the ground.
Thanks for your guys help!!
Posted 16 March 2004 - 11:16 PM
can someone do a write up on wiring in relays to put in the USMB. It seems this is a mystry area. I know we have covered it a few times but it keeps coming up.
Posted 16 March 2004 - 11:35 PM
Posted 16 March 2004 - 11:40 PM
I grabbed that switch assembly from a car that had the pneumatic height adjust switch there.. took out the HA switch from the assembly. all i have to do is put it in my assembly with a blank gray cover over it and it won't look like anything at all.
I want to put other switches in those spots too, give it a nice clean look.
Posted 17 March 2004 - 01:32 AM
also im thinking of gettin an extra wiper squirter motor and tank to spray gas into the exhaust, along with running a spark plug in the exhaust and a coil to make those pesky tailgaters back off. :madder:
Posted 17 March 2004 - 01:35 AM
work on that fuel pump kill switch idea that would be a good one. and if you use a relay you would actualy improve the system.
Posted 17 March 2004 - 01:36 AM
is it a strait wire to the ECM in the car with no relay?? or what?
Posted 17 March 2004 - 01:47 AM
I recomend checking a diagram but I 90% sure yous is the same
and yeah you use the relay to kill the fuel pump and power it up.
Posted 17 March 2004 - 03:38 AM
now i just have to wire up a fuel solnoid, make a custom gas tank, and put in the spark plug, coil, and wire it all up. then see how far i can shoot flames.
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