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Posted 16 March 2004 - 08:01 PM
Anyways, I've been wanting to do this job myself for some time, and Haynes shows a pretty easy procedure. Could someone who has done this provide me with a list of tools I might need? And would I just need the pad replacements, or shims, clips and antisqueal compound as well?
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Posted 16 March 2004 - 09:55 PM
Posted 17 March 2004 - 01:30 AM
12,14, and 17 mm sounds spot on. You might need an extension on the socketdriver to loosen the caliper support bracket, they can be tight. Spray some rust penetrant on them and tap them with a hammer if they won't move. Don't force the brake hose to bend too sharply.
I would strongly recommend replacing the discs - or having the old ones resurfaced. If you don't, you will experience problems very soon.
Posted 17 March 2004 - 04:10 AM
I just went through the exact same thing with RR on my 2000 GT Legacy. It was the wear indicator which happened to score the rotor as well as "indicate" wear. Seems like they could come up with a more subtle way of letting you know the pads need replacement other than scoring the rotor!
BTW, they said the front rotors needed to be resurfaced after 10,000 miles even though the pads were fine. Is this normal or is it related to an issue I read hear about undersized rotors on this model. Apologies for hijacking your post.
I paid the dealer $240 total for rear brakes/resurface rotor but independent quoted nearly the same price. I'll be checking back for DIY tips for the next go around.
Posted 17 March 2004 - 09:20 AM
--I would strongly recommend replacing the discs - or having the old ones resurfaced. If you don't, you will experience problems very soon.
Could you elaborate a little on why problems might arise?
Posted 17 March 2004 - 07:48 PM
I have never tried to push piston in by hand, but I will try that next pad change. I guess if you open bleed valve it would be easy.
Truk, that is good advise from Setright on turning or replacing rotors. I replace mine about every second pad change. The reason to do this is to keep the car from shimming when you step on brakes, also a smooth rotor will not eat your pads up as fast. The shimming is from the rotor being just a little out of round and it dont take much.
Posted 18 March 2004 - 02:47 AM
You can buy rotors at Autozone or Advance for about 25-30 bucks a piece.
Posted 18 March 2004 - 07:59 AM
Discs and pads wear into eachother and a brand new set of pads won't mate well with used discs. Generally, discs will last two sets of pads, with a resurface inbetween.
Trust me on this one. You don't want your brakes vibrating in a few weeks, because you will have to dismantle everything again and you can't re-use the pads. Well, you shouldn't. At least I wouldn't, but I do have rich experience in this area. And I like my brakes to work REALLY well. Not because I drive like an idiot, but because everyone else does
Posted 18 March 2004 - 04:01 PM
I though it was interesting the RR made a scraping sound. My right rear (99obw) disappeared first and never produced a warning sound. My friends 97obw did the same thing on the RR, no warning, and scored the rotor pretty good. My fathers 00 obw was the third in a few weeks to do the same thing. RR was the first to go with no warning. I did the brakes on all three cars and the other 3 sets of pads had some life left in them and the RR was completely gone. I chalked it up to coincidence. Anybody else had similar or was it just coincidence?
Posted 18 March 2004 - 05:20 PM
We had a similar failure on the LF of the outback recently. The pad had worn to the metal backing plate, but it never made a sound until the pad material was completely gone. I get the impression that the wear indicators are worthless. From now on I will keep a better eye on the pad thickness.
Posted 19 March 2004 - 01:21 AM
Sometimes I dont get them far enough in, wont fit over the new pads, then it's back to the G-clamp and push directly on the piston. At this stage it is far enough back in the cylinder to avoid skew.
Posted 19 March 2004 - 02:15 AM
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